The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[classicalthunde]

Does anyone have any recent thoughts or input on the quality of H. Freeman suits (http://www.hfreemanco.com/ - not hickey freeman)?

Considering getting a SC through an MTM shop that uses them for production.

The price is right, but curious about the quality...are the impressions from a couple years ago that it is on par with BB 1818 and SuitSupply still hold?

 

[HistoryBuff1812]

I dont know who updates the list but here is some information about the brands posted without info. Feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken.

Andrea Campagna - Full Canvas, hand sewn buttonholes as well as hand padded lapel.

Banana Republic - many lines from fused to full canvas on some of their monogram pieces with nice fabrics

Barneys - Two lines one full canvas by caruso to their midrange standard and one by Flannel Bay, Joseph Abboud And S Cohen fused and half canvas

Bottega Veneta - two lines one is full canvas with some hand finished details one is half canvassed.

Burberry - two lines one half canvassed one full with some handwork. website is forthcoming about construction methods.

Domenico Vacca - From fused with terrible Material to full canvas with hand work from the likes of partenopia, belvest and Davenza

Donna Karan - full canvas either by Greenfield or cantarelli

Eleventy- very lightweight some interesting fabrics all the pieces I've handled including the platinum line is fused unless it was a deconstructed jacket.

Gieves & Hawkes - Half Canvas with some interesting Fabrics (there is a "Gieves" line which is full canvas with some handwork)

Jil Sander - Full Canvas but very "Fashiony" completely closed really long sleeves

Kroon - cool fabrics fused

Lanvin - two lines one by PZ half Canvas And one by caruso full canvas with some handwork

Michelangelo - Half Canvas, Fabrics were nothing special IMHO

Piombo - Lardini made nice fabrics really lightweight jackets

Prada - Silver Label Half canvassed by cantarelli Black label full canvas belvest

Riviera - I have seen really nice suit by isaia for this company but all that I ordered from yoox had poor material and heavy fusing.

Roda - From fused to full Canvas By Flannel Bay , Boglioli And Gaiola

Thom Sweeney - full canvas with some handwork (Scuderi, China) Not familiar with bespoke

Valentino Tailoring - Beautiful Fabrics Full Canvas Lots of Handwork ( Same Factory as the new Luciano Barbera Sartoriale). Very "Fashiony" the ones i tried had short jacket length with really long sleeves and functioning buttonholes.

Current Banana Republic employee here, the monogram line was discontinued years ago and all the current suit offerings are fused. A few suits each season will be made of Italian fabrics, but still fused and with no hand finished details.

 

[Betta]

Current Banana Republic employee here, the monogram line was discontinued years ago and all the current suit offerings are fused. A few suits each season will be made of Italian fabrics, but still fused and with no hand finished details.

Wow that is surprising. Why pay $400+ for fused nice fabrics?! Gotta wait for those sales lol.

 

[jazerad]

Current Banana Republic employee here, the monogram line was discontinued years ago and all the current suit offerings are fused. A few suits each season will be made of Italian fabrics, but still fused and with no hand finished details.

That's a shame, they closed the store that was by me some time ago so I didn't realize.

 

[HistoryBuff1812]

Wow that is surprising. Why pay $400+ for fused nice fabrics?! Gotta wait for those sales lol.

The average guy or woman who buys a suit for them will not know that there are differences in the way suits are constructed. Rather they'll see "Italian Fabric," think the suit was made entirely in Italy, and that it is therefore worth the price. Pretty clever marketing.

 

[macumbista]

Just diving into this thread, looks fascinating! Before I go through all 115 pages, does anyone have the link to the Google doc handy? A pity it's not edited into the top post. Thanks so much!

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Just diving into this thread, looks fascinating! Before I go through all 115 pages, does anyone have the link to the Google doc handy? A pity it's not edited into the top post. Thanks so much!

Here you go..

 

[macumbista]

Here you go..

Excellent, thank you so much!

 

[SirGrotius]

Has anyone rated Dior before? I have a few of their suits, and find them well made. I'm not sure of the rating methodology, however.

1. They are fully canvassed
2. Made in Italy (don't know the shop/factory)
3. Contain some handwork details (obviously stitched not glued the rest of the garment)
4. A range of materials and patterns are available
5. Cut a little slimmer than most suits above, so contemporary slim if that's a thing
6. Retails around 3500 but goes up a lot if you're looking at different fabrics
7. They do a lot of MTM in NYC

 

[RapFan]

I'm sorry I can't get over how suit supply is above canali zegna corneliani and Pal Zileri.

Anyone who thoroughly understands suits and has experience with these lines knows better

 

[adrikos]

Any experience here with Scabal Made-to-Measure against the ranks?

 

[thedose]

I'm sorry I can't get over how suit supply is above canali zegna corneliani and Pal Zileri.

Anyone who thoroughly understands suits and has experience with these lines knows better

Agreed -- that list has too much SuitSupply praise for me to trust it. Not to mention, Spier & Mackay appears nowhere on it.

 

[RapFan]

Any experience here with Scabal Made-to-Measure against the ranks?

Fabric wise it's great. The rest depends on who is making the suit for you

 

[adrikos]

Mostly asking about their [Scabal] construction out of Germany. I know and love their fabric. Thanks for the response.

andrew

 

[Winoforever95]

Anyone know who made this Phineas Cole?