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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What about Rubinacci RTW?

    Disqualified by Moo.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ooh, what about the Levi's Action Suit? You could wash it and wear it, and it had a little "Levi's" embroidered on the sleeve cuff.

    Above SoCal, but below Fuuma. However, I can see it going the other way. Whatever the case, it deserves our support.

    I see you have given this matter some thought. Is that for periodic female travelers?

    No, they wear Trands.

    Stay Cool sounds awesome, and I'm pretty sure that's one of the criteria for the list.

    It really should have it's own exclusive rating, set aside from all the rest. Like Connemara, but less pasty and virginal.
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who the f*ck abbreviates 'Joseph' to 'Jos.'?
     
  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It really should have it's own exclusive rating, set aside from all the rest.

    I think there's already a forum devoted to it and its brethren.
     
  5. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who the f*ck abbreviates 'Joseph' to 'Jos.'?

    Doesn't the store do it?

    The NYAG is investigating... [​IMG]
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If they spelled it out, they'd have to buy wider labels, and that cost would then have to be passed on to the consumer.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think there's already a forum devoted to it and its brethren.

    Maybe I should start another proxy thread, this time to encapsulate the entire AAAC forum. Just think: a whole forum inside a thread inside another forum. If my appearance on The Today Show has taught me anything, it's to aspire.

    Doesn't the store do it?

    Maybe they were trying to Stay Cool.
     
  8. HomerJ

    HomerJ Senior member

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    There's a big jump between 0 star and 1 star so I added fractional stars Also bumped up Nautica from 0 star to 4/8 star Nonpareil [*****1/2] (i.e. Unmatched so don't add anyone else) - Savile Row's Paul Jheeta Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items) - Kiton - Oxxford - Brioni - Cesare Attolini Napoli - Borrelli - RLPL Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value). - Luciano Barbera - Sartoria Partenopea - Sartoria Attolini Napoli - Isaia - Caruso Sartoria Parma - Pal Zileri Sartoriale - Ravazzolo - Zegna Couture - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average). - Caruso - Canali - Corneliani - Hickey Freeman Mainline - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece - Ermenegildo Zegna - Samuelsohn Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it). - Cantarelli - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric) - Brooks Brothers 1818 - Paul Smith - H. Freemann - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas) - RLBL - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre) Mediocre [*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit). - Hugo Boss - Banana Republic Monogram - Lauren Ralph Lauren So-so [7/8 *] (i.e. sometimes good, sometimes bad) - Land's End - Hart Schaffner Marx - Sean John Below par [6/8 *] (i.e. noticeably lacking in quality, only for doormen) - Chaps Ralph Lauren - Haggar Imperial - Jos A Bank Signature Gold Displeasing [5/8 *] (i.e. downright offensive to the senses) - Baroni - Jos A Bank Signature - John Bartlett - Haggar Black Label For poor people [4/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless money is definitely an object) - Haggar - Oscar de la Renta - Nautica - Jos A Bank Executive - Evan Picone Bad [3/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless you're on welfare and need to appear in court. May be able to return for refund if you don't remove the sleeve tag) - Tommy Hilfiger - Mantoni (sorry Manton) - Jos A Bank Stays Cool (sometimes 4/8 * if you need help staying cool [​IMG] ) - Cricketeer Really Bad [2/8 *] (i.e. more bad than Bad but not as bad as Badder than Really Bad) - Austin Reed - Polo University Club (if you cut off half the label that says University Club, upgrade to 3/8 *) - Rocco Siffredi - Mario Rossi - British Manor Badder [1/8 *] (just don't buy it OK?) - Today's Man - K&G - Structure (if you have a time machine to go back to 1992, bump to 3/8 *) - Alfani Baddest [ ] (i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for). - H&M - Banana Republic - Calvin Klein - Tasso Elba
     
  9. furo

    furo Senior member

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    Why is Black Fleece now above Golden Fleece?

    Because it's a superior product (at least the stuff I've seen and own - not sure about the current season)

    btw, where's Burberry? And Loro Piana?

    ...and Men's Wearhouse omfg?
     
  10. laphroaig

    laphroaig Senior member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items) Raja Fashions - Leading tailor in HK.
     
  11. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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  12. mgomes

    mgomes Well-Known Member

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    Despite all the bile, this kind of lists is usually useful. Sure, it's subjective, but so is rating anything that involves aesthetics as well as build quality. They do it with cars, they can do it with suits. Most people cannot go on a Jules Vern 80 suits around the world odyssey to sample suits by themselves or window shopping. There must be references, usually more knowledgeable/experienced people whose diatribes you can read and then make your own conclusions.

    I for one, was under the impression that Ermenegildo Zegna makes good quality suits and that Boss/Armani are overpriced. Reading the SF reinforced this idea.

    Not savvy (erm) enough to add to the list, but an attentive reader nonetheless...
     
  13. SirSuturesALot

    SirSuturesALot Senior member

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    How many of the people modifying the list have had firsthand experience with a majority of the brands listed?
     
  14. winston

    winston Senior member

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    There's a big jump between 0 star and 1 star so I added fractional stars

    Also bumped up Nautica from 0 star to 4/8 star

    Nonpareil [*****1/2] (i.e. Unmatched so don't add anyone else)
    - Savile Row's Paul Jheeta

    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Borrelli
    - RLPL

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).

    - Luciano Barbera
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - Caruso Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece


    (snip)


    Was there really an increase in quality between Sartoria Attolini and the name change to Cesare Attolini? (I assumed it was just a name change).
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    What no chan?

    "Optimist only sees doughnut. Pessimist sees hole."

    Charlie Chan in Paris (1935)


    - B
     
  16. WhateverYouLike

    WhateverYouLike Senior member

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    Above SoCal, but below Fuuma. However, I can see it going the other way. Whatever the case, it deserves our support.

    That sounds like a place that would hurt your tushie.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Because it's a superior product (at least the stuff I've seen and own - not sure about the current season)?

    I ask because Golden Fleece has traditionally been Brooks Brothers' flagship product, made to top spec by Martin Greenfield. There is a good amount of handwork in it. Who makes the Black Fleece suits, and how does the workmanship compare?
     
  18. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    I'd like jefferyd and Despos to chime in on this list.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I can't believe we forgot to rank Tom Ford. The list is dead to me now.
     
  20. unpainted huffheinz

    unpainted huffheinz Senior member

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    I ask because Golden Fleece has traditionally been Brooks Brothers' flagship product, made to top spec by Martin Greenfield. There is a good amount of handwork in it. Who makes the Black Fleece suits, and how does the workmanship compare?

    The Greenfield GF stuff I have owned only had button holes done by hand, and not all that well either. The cut is just awful too.
     

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