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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. Stilig

    Stilig Well-Known Member

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    Sep 18, 2011
    Location:
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    I know for a fact that many (if not all) of Loro Piana's sport coats (and perhaps suits) are made in Naples by G.abo. They do offer a fully handmade product, but I expect that Loro Piana is using the "Hand finished" half canvas construction for most of their stuff.

    I think G.abo is very good at the price point, but Loro Piana prices are extremely excessive for that quality.
     
  2. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Apr 8, 2012
    ^Current suits are made by St. Andrews, but I think they have different lines. Their "Business" suit line (which has pretty much been untouched in as far as style goes for the past 20 years) is very plain and business-formal looking. They also seem to offer very lightweight and casual looking suits, which could very well may be made by G.abo, haven't checked out those.

    It should also be noted that LP jackets are incredibly light-weight, often unlined and with minimal construction. The closest I've tried was Belvest jacket in a box, and some Lardini that felt like a PJ/shirt.

    LP has much, much nicer fabrics(finest cashmeres, minks, vicuna, and other exotic blends), and more handwork. But I agree, at the prices they're asking, you're paying a huge premium for the brand name and the fabric.

    But then again, it's a luxury brand, almost exclusively focusing on high $$$ clients.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
  3. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Also, interesting observation for the geeks, Loro Piana and Paul Stuart (Stuart's Choice) used the same manufacturers for their suits during the same time periods. Caruso -> Isaia -> St. Andrews

    So if you find any of those tags in either a Loro Piana or Stuart's Choice suit/jacket, you can assume the age:

    Caruso tag: early-mid 00's
    Isaia: Late 00's
    St. Andrews: The past 5 years or so.

    On a completely different note: I found a RLBL suit which was made by Cantarelli. I knew RLPL was made by Cantarelli a short time, but never heard or RLBL. Must've been from the year they launched RLBL.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. classicman

    classicman Active Member

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    Sep 2, 2014
    Lightest full canvassed jacket I have tried is made by Kiton (Lasa model). My newest (and first) Belvest jacket is extremely light (and unlined) as well. No doubt LP Cashmere, Baby Cashmere and other blends are top notch

    Here are jackets from LP: (Check out their price points).

    https://www.loropiana.com/en/eshop/men/jackets

    Plus there is no indication of handwork in description except for one jacket which is labelled handmade. On contrary, it proudly mentions AMF stitching on the jacket. The fact that they can't even do pick stitching by hands leaves little to doubt that there should be anything more than a little handwork to be expected in these exorbitantly priced items. If anyone knows and can show otherwise I am happy to listen and correct myself.

    Let me know what specifically is hand made about LP RTW jacket in terms of:

    • Pattern cutting
    • Fabric cutting
    • Matching Fabric with pattern
    • Assembling Canvass
    • Marking Pockets, button holes etc
    • Chest Pocket construction
    • Collar construction
    • Flap pocket construction
    • Armhole construction and inner lining stitching
    • Attaching Collar to jacket
    • Attaching Canvass to Fabric
    • Inside Lining/Sleeve Lining stitching
    • Making of Jacket and Sleeve Button holes
    • Application of Buttons to holes
    • Pick Stitching
    • Pressing at various stages of construction


    For Kiton hand construction watch this video from 3:30 to 8 mins:

     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  5. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    758
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    Apr 8, 2012
    Here are two articles going through St. Andrews construction:

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.no/2010/01/saint-andrews.html
    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.no/2012/02/ralph-lauren-purple-label.html


    Again, LP almost is pricing their stuff almost exclusively on the fabric used. You can get a "normal" LP jacket for around $3000, while a Kiton will easily cost between $6000-$8000, brand new in stores.


    I have a friend that actually works at Loro Piana, so I'll ask him for the details on the jackets. But from what I've understood: A good part of the clients there don't really care about the nitpicky details, like we do over here. They are loaded, and can spend $5k on a sport coat in the same way us regulars drop $200 on a SC during sales season. Hell, a lot of them don't even do the shopping themselves, they have personal shoppers that pick up a batch of clothes for them.


    Not that it's an excuse for selling lower quality garment at a premium price, but that's how it works in the luxe industries. 50% is quality / 50% is exclusivity. Why change something that works, when 95% of your regular clients are happy.

    Same goes for Bijan, Zilli, Stefano Ricci, etc. It's high fashion for the extremely wealthy. That's why I prefer "small" fashion houses like Attolini, etc. At least there you know that most of the billed money goes directly into man hours and fabrics, with much smaller overheads.
     
  6. david123

    david123 Senior member

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    608
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    Jul 14, 2010
    Location:
    New York, New York
    Was the question about Dunhill from about 50-100 posts ago ever resolved? I saw a suit of theirs I liked that said Made in Spain and I was wondering about the quality and maker.
     
  7. instyler7676

    instyler7676 New Member

    Messages:
    1
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    Jul 26, 2016
    Hello,

    I was perusing the Nordstrom anniversary sale and am curious if any of these options in the sub $1000 price point are of decent quality in your opinion:

    Z Zegna "Drop 7" @ $970 US - I found several comments about fusing in this thread and mixed feedback in general

    SamuelSohn "Beckett" @ $870

    Boss "Huge/Genius" @ $600-670

    David Donahue "Ryan" @ $600

    Boss "Johnston/Lenon" @ $600

    Peter Millar "Flynn" @ $540

    Ted Baker "London/Jay" @ $540

    Any winners here? Thanks for your feedback
     
  8. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    707
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    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    That's their low-end stuff. Lots of it at Nordstrom Rack as well. Nordstrom carries Canali and Hickey Freeman Mainline (yellow label). Likely some good end-of-season deals on those. Z Zegna is their Made in Mexico stuff. Not sure about the Samuelsohn. Some of their stuff is excellent but no idea where Beckett fits.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2016
  9. classicman

    classicman Active Member

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    29
    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2014
    Instyler,

    If you are willing to go in $1200 - $1600 range you may find ISAIA and E Zegna at Saks/NM on sale (@ 60%-70% off ). Actually mid June to beginning of July is the best time since prices are lowest and there are more chances you will find your size.
     
  10. highcatcher91

    highcatcher91 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    NYC
    I have a fairly ignorant suit question as I am not very educated in the space. I understand fused, canvassed, half-canvassed etc but beyond that little else. I'm looking to get a basic navy and a basic grey suit and have come across well priced (discounted) Lanvin and SLP pairs. However - from the research I've done it seems mostly what I'm paying for is the name vs quality and craftsmanship. My alternatives here would be the standard suits from Sid Mashburn and Freemans which both seem to have gotten great reviews. As a note all 4 of these would be fully canvassed.

    So my question here is am I wrong that I'm mostly paying for the name and that the Sid/Freemans suits would be better? Anyone have insight into any of these 4 brands suits? There are some threads on all of these but they are fairly dated.
     
  11. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    I have many Hickey Freeman mainline suits. The newest version has a gold tag and is in the Hamilton fit. Avoid the white label stuff as it's made for outlets. Lanvin is a fashion suit. No experience there.

    Or did you mean Freeman's Sporting Club suits?
     
  12. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    

    Lanvin suits were made by Caruso last time I checked, and are beautiful suits. Great value at deep discounts.
    SLP never tried one. I'd guess complete fashion suit with most of price attributes to brand.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. highcatcher91

    highcatcher91 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    NYC
    Thanks for the insight - do you know if Caruso makes their $1500-2000 "Attitude" suits?
     
  14. highcatcher91

    highcatcher91 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 5, 2016
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    NYC
    Sorry should have been more clear - I meant Freeman's Sporting Club
     
  15. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    

    I know nothing of Attitude suits. But, if this is the full retail price, probably no. I read somewhere there are some Lanvin suits made in Canada (might be Samuelsohn, Copley....who knows...) but keep in mind that best of the best Canadian Samuelsohn suit can be bought for not more then $1200. These would be full canvas, mostly machine made by unionized workers in Quebec.

    Now, what you pay for with Lanvin is styling, I guess.
     
  16. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    No idea who who makes FSC suits. Martin Greenfield? You know I would recommend just going on eBay and grabbing a NWT Canali or something similar. NMWA alone has great videos on how to get your exact measurements. Why agonize over a local purchase where there is plenty of great stuff out there?

    That said, staple-stuff can be hard to find in common sizes sometimes.
     
  17. highcatcher91

    highcatcher91 Well-Known Member

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    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    NYC
    Spoke with an SA at Sid Mashburn and their suits are made by Caruso so giving it a shot @ $1250.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    707
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    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    East Coast
    

    Good luck! I have a few sport coats from Barneys that are Caruso and I love them!
     
  19. Arctic81Fox

    Arctic81Fox Member

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    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Location:
    Dublin, Ireland
    

    LP do go on sale although maybe you are referring to US only. I'm on holiday in Milan right now and LP, Kiton, Lardini, Pal Zileri, Canali, Zenga, Cornelliani and Brioni are all on sale.

    Picked up a wonderful Lardini suit at a frankly scandalous price yesterday. Wonderful fit. :slayer:
     
  20. cyan

    cyan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    66
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    

    Care to share where you picked up the suit? I may be in the area soon. Thanks.
     

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