The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Can we also take into consideration the price point some of these suits can be had for, in lieu of their MSRP?

    Good ploy, but you are not getting my DesposDiscountâ„¢.

    What is really needed is a scatter chart, something that looks like this...

    [​IMG]

    ...or maybe this:

    [​IMG]

    ...or even better, something 3D. In fact, with the 3D plotting and sufficient data points, the face (or bust, if you will) of tailored clothing will emerge.

    Guess what it looks like.


    - B
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^

    FAIL. You did not account for AndyPoints.
     


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why can't RLBL be at the same level?

    Shh. My favorite part of this thread is the lack of facts and quantification, coupled with the the pleasantly ambiguous concept of "quality." With such open parameters, the possibilities are endless, and that's charming.

    My second favorite part is how the list is shaping up along the usual "retail price/SF prestige" lines. Though there is, admittedly, some scrapping near the bottom. The Lauren suits are better than the Nautica how? I think the Andyites will be interested in our findings.
     


  4. Georgetown

    Georgetown Active Member

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    Excellent thread.

    I, for one, would like to see Luciano Barbera placed on the list. The pieces i have are lovely, and beautifully made, but I defer to my more knowledgeable colleagues to rank it relative to others. [​IMG]

    a.
     


  5. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    Why can't RLBL be at the same level? You mention RLPL. Many of those suits are made by Caruso, who made a lot of Black Fleece as well as RLBL. So why would RLPL necessarily be above those other brands? Is there something I'm missing?

    I can understand if we are breaking it down to years of models and even seasons, since Black Fleece has undergone a lot of change (i.e. from made in Italy to the USA) as well as others. But what necessarily makes RLBL inferior or superior to BB Golden Fleece?

    I'd rank BB Black Fleece from 2007 above Golden Fleece (in terms of quality) but I can only bump one notch per day :wink:


    there is also the same maker manufacturing it at different quality levels. belvest makes for prada but makes a better product for itself under its own name.

    i mention rlpl with rlpl st. andrews. to differentiate it from the caruso one. and yes, the caruso rlpl is made less qualitatively than the st andrews. st andrews rlpl from what i handled is superlative.
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I, for one, would like to see Luciano Barbera placed on the list.

    Yes, please him next to Despos and let's see the two wrestle.

    I'm betting on Despos...he's got this secret move known as the "kimchee."


    - B
     


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes, please him next to Despos and let's see the two wrestle.

    I'm betting on Despos...he's got this secret move known as the "kimchee."


    - B


    Dont make me do Hadouken!
     


  8. Bellum

    Bellum Senior member

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    I suspect Savile Row's Paul Jheeta has been left off the list because it tops out at Excellent [*****].

    I am pleased to add

    Nonpareil [***** 1/2] Savile Row's Paul Jheeta
     


  9. Corniche

    Corniche Senior member

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    Canali has been upgraded in design this year, only good???


    In bad or terrible I go for the glued crappola Boss.[​IMG]

    I also dislike some Zegna, too baggy and expensive for quality. I love Canali.
     


  10. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    The list:
    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Borrelli
    - RLPL

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - Caruso Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    - Ravazzolo
    - Steve Harvey
    - Zegna Couture

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
    - Caruso
    - Canali
    - Corneliani
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn


    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818
    - Paul Smith
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - RLBL
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

    Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    - Lauren Ralph Lauren-



    Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    - Calvin Klein
    - Tasso Elba
    - Nautica

    This list is a big fail on several levels, and not the least for trying to factor in value for money, especially on SF. First, how many posters here ever pay full retail? Hell, I seem to recall a thread a while ago about whether it was poor form to try and squeeze a discount out of your SR tailor. If you are buying at STP prices, Corneliani moves well up into the "Very Good" category.

    By the same token, Kiton makes a beautiful suit but ought to be bringing up the rear of the "Bad" category. Kiton is the worst value for money I have ever seen in a suit.

    Does Kiton really meet this criterion? "If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more." Would anyone ever say, "Gosh, I could get 2 or 3 bespoke Rubinacci or Henry Poole for the same price but this lovely RTW Kiton is just to die for!"
     


  11. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    How about Whitcomb & Shaftesbury? I hear Paul Jheeta is the MD.
     


  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I suspect Savile Row's Paul Jheeta has been left off the list because it tops out at Excellent [*****].

    I am pleased to add

    Nonpareil [***** 1/2] Savile Row's Paul Jheeta


    Thank you for that.

    Few breathe the rarified air that simply goes by the name, "Jheeta."

    This list is a big fail on several levels, and not the least for trying to factor in value for money, especially on SF. First, how many posters here ever pay full retail? Hell, I seem to recall a thread a while ago about whether it was poor form to try and squeeze a discount out of your SR tailor. If you are buying at STP prices, Corneliani moves well up into the "Very Good" category.

    By the same token, Kiton makes a beautiful suit but ought to be bringing up the rear of the "Bad" category. Kiton is the worst value for money I have ever seen in a suit.

    Does Kiton really meet this criterion? "If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more." Would anyone ever say, "Gosh, I could get 2 or 3 bespoke Rubinacci or Henry Poole for the same price but this lovely RTW Kiton is just to die for!"


    Bijan laughs at your puny list. This is the sound Bijan makes when Bijan laughs:

    "Ha, HAH...I laugh at your puny list."


    - B
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    How about Whitcomb & Shaftesbury? I hear Paul Jheeta is the MD.

    Don't infuriate dopey's boss.


    - B
     


  14. East Oakland

    East Oakland Senior member

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    I love that Steve Harvey somehow got slipped into the list. I'll be sure to keep my eye out for one of these rather than an Isaia or a Caruso Sartoria Parma.

    [​IMG]
     


  15. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Is Pierre Cardin on the list? How about John Weitz or Giorgio di Sant'Angelo? We also need John Blair Collection, Irvine Park and Botany 500. "Mr Sajak's wardrobe by... BOTANY 500..."
     


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