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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Prada is now made by Belvest and Cantarelli. The pieces I've seen are half-canvassed.

    Paul Smith is made by a smaller Italian company and is half canvassed also.

    Gucci has a fused and fully canvassed line (both made by Zegna). The canvassed pieces have a higher MSRP and are made to Zegna mainline standards, imo.

    Tom Ford is obviously made to Zegna Couture standards.
     
  2. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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  3. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I would double check the Belvest Prada suits. I did the pinch test and they went down to a half canvass.

    The Paul Smith "London" line is half canvassed. PS is fused. The mainline (white label from Japan) is fully canvassed.
     
  4. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

    Excellent [☆☆☆☆☆]
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - Caraceni
    - Kiton
    - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Formosa
    - St Andrew / Santandrea
    - Zegna Couture
    • Tom Ford


    Very Good[☆☆☆☆] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Battistoni
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - D'Avenza
    - Hermes (by Belvest)
    - Isaia
    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    • Ralph Lauren Purple Label
    - Sartorio
    - Stile Latino

    Good[☆☆☆] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics but usually half canvassed)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli mainline
    - Corneliani mainline
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    • Dunhill (classical cut)
    • Gucci (fashion forward cut)
    • Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (fashion forward cut)
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Martin Greenfield
    • House label on Gilt
    • Freeman's Sporting Club
    • Band of Outsiders
    • Robert Talbott
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    • RLBL
    • Ma.Co.
    • Adriano and Sons
    - Ring Jacket
    - Samuelsohn
    • Paul Stuart
    - Scuderi


    Satisfactory [☆☆] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boggi
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Burberry Prorsum
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
    • Polo Ralph Lauren
    - Coppley (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - Gucci
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - L.B.M. 1911
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Piombo
    - Prada (half canvassed)
    - Peter Millar
    - Southwick
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Tagliatore
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre[☆] (Suits that are mediocre.)

    - Armani Collezioni (fused)
    - Armani Exchange
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Corneliani Trend (fused)
    - Dolce & Gabbana
    - hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
    - J Crew Ludlow (fused)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Pal Zileri Lab
    - Tombolini
    - Versace Collection
    - Z Zegna

    Does anyone know who makes Berluti rtw? Bespoke is done by the old Arnys outfit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    You removed a lot of brands
     
  6. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    Which ones?
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2014
  7. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    You're right on PS. Sorry I meant London is half canvassed, PS is fused and mainline (MIJ) is full canvas.
    For Prada, they may change it now. Last I seen it was three or so years ago.
     
  8. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    fixed.
     
  9. edwardthefirst

    edwardthefirst Senior member

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    I've been meaning to ask this. Quality is fantastic, check out the Milanese:
    [​IMG]

    And here is the pocket tag: [​IMG]
     
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    @MZhammer why did you delete my tabbed formatting? Did you not find it helpful? Isn't it nice to know about Caruso's niche brands, and the fashion brands that are made by high end manufacturers?
     
  11. redboat

    redboat Senior member

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    Any opinions on this 60/40 mohair/wool suit? I've heard Lardini makes decent stuff, and mohair is supposed to have some advantages as a fabric. Any opinions on the brand or fabric? I'm 5'10.5", 150 lbs, and would buy the size 38.

    With the additional 10% discount that Yoox is offering, the suit would cost me $402. Decent price?
    http://www.yoox.com/us/49137333TX/i...ts=sr_clothingmen80&cod10=49137333TX&sizeId=3
     
  12. edwardthefirst

    edwardthefirst Senior member

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    That's a pretty decent price, IMHO. Lardini is pretty good, I believe half canvassed (at least the pieces I've handled). You might want to check eBay first though. Lardini can usually be had for pretty cheap on there.
     
  13. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Who make a better suit BBBF (USA) VS. RLBL, if fit was equal on each?
     
  14. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    My apologies, I guess I didn't see it when I was looking at the lists. I updated the master to include the edits you made.

    I believe thats a Martin Greenfield vs Caruso question and the cuts are SUPER different. They are both quality makers so they will be pretty equivalent.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
  15. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Thanks MZ, I was referring to quality, should all other things be equal.
     
  16. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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  17. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Without a pic of a technical label, it's anyone's guess.
     
  18. linds_15

    linds_15 Senior member

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  19. fisherO

    fisherO Active Member

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  20. fisherO

    fisherO Active Member

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    did you own each brand to make the conclusion?
     

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