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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    Thanks for your quick reply.

    Does that apply for all suits which supposedly are fully canvassed? Because a 'Sartorial Pure Wool Suit' from M&S are, and I quote, "fully canvassed", yet it's placed in the Satisfactory category. E contrario; can there be found any fused or half canvassed suits in the Excellent, Very good or Good categories?
    [/quote]
    I would say if it is fully canvassed than it belongs in the good category. There are no fused suits I know that belong in the same sentence with most of the suits in the good category basically being that a full canvassed suit provides more workmanship than a half canvassed or a fused suit will provide with whats involved with sewing the canvass into the full front side of the jaket. More labor intensive and more skilled labor work. (A lot of tailors dont even know how to make a half canvassed suit not to speak of a full canvassed suit..)
     
  2. Silhouette

    Silhouette Senior member

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    Interesting.

    Hm. If we were to put price tags (with variance) what would the appropriate span be for the good category? I'm in the market for a fully canvassed suit and I can't make up my mind of what I would like to pay for one. What's the cheapest and what's the most expensive brands and suits in the good category?
     
  3. doctorman

    doctorman Senior member

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    i'm pretty sure you can get black fleece for around $600 plus tax (free tailoring at BB store). they come around quite frequently with their 25% off sales (semi-annual sale comes the day after x-mas at 30% off). i do think most, if not all, bf are half-canvassed now.

    you can have paul stuart (fully canvassed) suits for about $700 plus tax and tailoring at least twice a year.

    many other brands - canali, corneliani, isaia, zegna, hickey freeman - go on sale here and there, but the best time to buy is probably the day after xmas - at saks with 70% off, especially if you're not sized between 36-40. they can be had sometimes for well under $1000. YMMV.

    gilt occasionally have some good deals (i've seen samuelsohn for $600) but i would not buy things i can't try on/can't return easily.

    the most expensive brands are the ones you buy at retail. [​IMG]
     
  4. levku

    levku Well-Known Member

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    What about Hermes and Zilli?
     
  5. LeSacre

    LeSacre Senior member

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    I've never handled Zilli, but Hermes is currently made by Belvest which is properly ranked under very good.
     
  6. Silhouette

    Silhouette Senior member

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    Excellent reply.

    However, I perceive a problem and this have probably been discussed before. The market for good suits seems to be geographically distinguished. The need should look arguably the same in the western world, given income and areas of use. However, the suits you mention in your proposal are not available for me at those prices in Europe. All the suits and locations you mentioned for purchase are situated in the US.

    SuitSupply offers La Spalla at 699 EUR and M&S offer the PW at £499. Are these suits of equivalent quality and quality/price-ratio to those you proposed to me?

    I'm sorry if I'm barking up a wrong tree here or if this already has been discussed.
     
  7. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    I dont know about M&S being I dont own any of their suits.. but I have the La Spalla and it is atleast on par with Canali.. Fabric might be a little bit less but it makes up for it with a more flattering cut...higher armholes, slimmer body with softer shoulders and a slightly lower buttoning point than Canali. Is it worth the price tag? Not really in a sense when I can grab a Zegna or Cornaliani for much cheaper on ebay..but quality wise its in the same ball park as Canali
     
  8. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    double post
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  9. staxringold

    staxringold Senior member

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    I know it's an internet house, but does anyone have experience with Combatant Gentlemen so we can go ahead and add them under the worst category? I think because I'm browsing clothing websites their ads are constantly popping up on my Facebook.

    https://www.combatgent.com

    Despite their heavy reminding about the 'super 140s' fabric, I can't imagine how terrible a suit must be that they list for that price.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  10. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    mainline or Silver Label line?
     
  11. truthancisco

    truthancisco Member

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    I second this sentiment. I came here thinking I knew the basics of suits and was thrilled I could get two suits for 150 at k and g superstore. It wasnt until I was gifted a truely epic suit I knew the difference and only because I was told it would need special care. There are people who really need to know what brands are terrible, because the men's warehouse guys sure aren't telling them.
     
  12. kngnkn

    kngnkn Member

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    Where is the info coming from that Giorgio Armani Black Label is fused? None of my black labels from the past 2-3 years are.
     
  13. McKriss

    McKriss Well-Known Member

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    Where I live, everything Black Label is fused.
     
  14. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    old mainline

    While I hate to cast stones before we have actual experience aren't the suits retailing at $160? I have trouble believing there can be any redeeming quality beyond the price.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  15. staxringold

    staxringold Senior member

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    Exactly. Just we're talking about 'warning' people and it's been popping up in my feed a lot (so worth getting in front of, IMO)
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Go to any store that sells Black Label. The canvassed models are close to 5k and have basting all over them.
     
  17. Artking3

    Artking3 Senior member

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    Are Hermes products still made by Belvest? I've noticed more of their sport coats are made in France nowadays, while Belvest products are made in Italy.
     
  18. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

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    Zilli is made by Pal Zileri I beleive, in their highest level of construction, probably equivalent to the Sartoriale line by PZ.
     
  19. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Thanks, I didn't know that.
     
  20. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Who makes Zilli shoes?
     

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