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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    I'm with Aravenel. Polo is head and shoulders above BB 1818, Suit Supply and the other "Satisfactory" suits.
     


  2. msulinski

    msulinski Distinguished Member

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    Regarding J Press, is their Presstige line full-canvass? I thought only their Pressidential line is. Any opinions in their York St line?
     


  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    There's definitely variation within the categories. It's definitely towards the top of the category.

    But certainly can't put PRL on par with mainline Corneliani
     


  4. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    I agree.
     


  5. aravenel

    aravenel Distinguished Member

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    Well, my point was not so much that it didn't belong in that category (although there are some Polo lines that are full canvassed) as that there is definite variation within the categories.

    The categories are purely about construction quality. Within each, there are manufacturers that make suits that are cut much more in line with what I may want, or have other features I may want.

    For instance, Oxxford and Kiton (or Brioni and Attolini) cut suits that are pretty polar opposite from one another. Theyre all extremely well made, but I may much prefer one over the other.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013


  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    This was somewhat my original point in noticing that Polo keeps bouncing between the two categories and is either the best of the Satisfactory category or on the lower end of the Good category. The people who belive it should be in the Satisfactory category point to the fact it is half canvassed, while the people who bump it to the Good category point out the fabric and fit of the suit.
     


  7. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    I think Polo should stay in satisfactory; it doesn't make sense to lump it in with RLBL.

    And Polo Blue label is always half canvassed. I think only the vintage stuff was fully canvassed.
     


  8. mans72

    mans72 Well-Known Member

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    I'd support moving up Zegna Couture up a notch....construction is superb, fit as well although I'm not an expert....anyone else?
     


  9. aravenel

    aravenel Distinguished Member

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    I thought some of the made in Italy stuff was made by Corneliani and was full canvassed.

    Anyways, yes, I support leaving it where it is, though it is probably clearly at the very top of that list.
     


  10. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior Member

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    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - St Andrew

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Zegna Couture
    - Tom Ford

    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Presstige (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Zara
    - H&M
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Z Zegna
    - Alfani
    - DKNY
    - Donald Trump
    - Tommy Hilfiger
    - Michael Kors
     


  11. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    La Vera Sartoria Napoletana should be in the Excellent category
     


  12. redboat

    redboat Senior Member

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    One more time: J Crew Ludlow suits are half canvassed with wool fabrics from good Italian mills. I'd put them in the lower-to-middle range of "satisfactory".
     


  13. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Nobody's stopping you from adding it; go for it!
     


  14. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Distinguished Member

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    any opinion in chester barrie OTR?
     


  15. JTA

    JTA Senior Member

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    The Made in USA (think it's made by Southwick and Workers Union) is full canvassed.
    The first Made in Italy (precursor to RLPL by Corneliani) iteration is full canvassed.


    I may be wrong however my experience with J Crew Ludlow is fused. It's being advertised as canvassed chest piece and is totally a different beast to half canvassed. PRL Blue Label is half canvassed.
     


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