The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Again, I ask. Why is Oxxford being ignored?
     




  2. ryoneo

    ryoneo Senior member

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    Updated.



    Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - RLPL
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - St Andrew

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Zegna Couture
    - Tom Ford

    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Presstige (full canvas)

    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - Lardini
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Suit Supply
    - Z Zegna
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - Hickey (fused, now made in China, not US)
    - Joseph Abboud
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013


  3. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    RLPL in two categories? Are there two levels or is that a typo?
     


  4. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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  5. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I deleted the double RLPL post.

    Should we move Zegna Couture and Tom Ford to the very top?
     


  6. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

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    Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - RLPL
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - St Andrew

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Zegna Couture
    - Tom Ford

    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Presstige (full canvas)

    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - Lardini
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Suit Supply
    - Z Zegna
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - Hickey (fused, now made in China, not US)
    - Joseph Abboud

    Waste of Money (suits you wear to a bar fight)
    - ZARA
    - H&M
     


  7. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    I think we're still missing a few more, but let's keep populating it!
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013


  8. redboat

    redboat Senior member

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    So I still think J Crew Ludlow suits, if you can get past the embarassment of the label, belong in the "satisfactory" category. The are half-canvassed with fabrics from good Italian mills.

    Plus they are easy to find and get on sale.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    PLEASE DON'T QUOTE THE WRONG LIST.


    - Oxxford (Highest Quality)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - St Andrew

    Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

    - Oxxford (1220)
    - Belvest mainline
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
    - RLPL
    - Zegna Couture
    - Tom Ford

    Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
    - Canali mainline
    - Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Dunhill
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
    - Pal Zileri mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
    - Paul Stuart
    - Raffaelle Caruso mainline
    - RLBL
    - Samuelsohn
    - J. Press Presstige (full canvas)


    Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

    - Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Charles Tyrwhitt
    - CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
    - Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
    - Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hackett (half canvassed)
    - Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
    - Lardini (half canvassed)
    - Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
    - Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
    - Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
    - Suit Supply (half canvassed)
    - Valentino (half canvassed)

    Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

    - J. Press mainline (fused)
    - Hugo Boss (fused)
    - hickey (now fused and made in China)
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Zara
    - H&M
    - Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
    - Z Zegna
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013


  10. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    By all means, add it if you think it belongs on the list.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013


  11. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Polo is always bouncing between Satisfactory (people point out it is half-canvassed) and Good (people point out the fabric and cut). Is it fair to say the consensus is that PRL is either the best of the bunch in Satisfactory or on the lower end of Good?
     


  12. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    Thanks for all the hard work. I would move Brunello Cucinelli up. I do not own, but have tried on a few. It is like an Isaia...with nicer cloth. Anyone else with opinion and experience?
     


  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'd certainly pick most polo over just about anything in Satisfactory, and over a fair amount of Good.

    Keep in mind Polo has several different lines, some of which are better than others.
     


  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    It doesn't deserve to move up. Isaia has a ton more handwork. BC is entirely machine made like Zegna, with some amazing cashmere. The fabric doesn't warrant another spot up (just a note in parentheses)




    PRL is definitely satisfactory. Half canvas. Remember that we're grading on a curve here, and that Polo is 99.9999% better than anything on the street.
     


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