The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Made by Martin Greenfield or the Italian factory. Martin Greenfield is nice, italian factory not so much. Pretty overpriced at retail imo but I own a few from sales
     


  2. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Your guesses on fabric abbreviations are correct.

    A full list of those abbreviations in English, Finnish, Dutch, Swedish and German can be found here.
     


  3. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    Just wondering which one is the right one? CA is Acetate in the above and it's Hemp in this eBay Guide?
     


  4. biged781

    biged781 Senior member

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    - oops, deleted -
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2013


  5. redboat

    redboat Senior member

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    Can anyone tell me where Zanella by Caruso fits in the hierarchy? I've seen some of their sport coats for sale on SF, but I'm not familiar.
     


  6. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

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    Could someone explain to me how RLBL suits are ranked above E.Zegna suits? I have 2 RLBL and 2 E.Zegna and they're both great piece of work but the difference in retail price is about $1,000. Yes, price isn't everything but does this mean E.Zegna suit prices are inflated?!
     


  7. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    The above list doesn't make any sense.

    How is golden fleece (by Lardini and Southwick) in the same league as Zegna Couture?

    Not all Caruso-made suits are made to the same standard. Some are hand made (RLPL) and some are machine made (RLBL).

    And how is Etro mediocre when it's made by Boglioli, is half canvassed and has 100% silk lining?

    Also, Armani black label might not be fully cavassed.
     


  8. tspidey0012

    tspidey0012 New Member

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    I don't see Oxxford listed anymore on your rankings. Why?
     


  9. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    Overall E. Zegna (not Z Zegna) suit is a better quality garment than RLBL suit nevertheless IMHO Ralph Lauren got it right with the RLBL suiting line, as it offers good value for money (fully canvassed with sufficient bells and whistles) with aggressive cut. General public won't notice the details that make EZ a better suit unlike general SF community.


    The list was first collated few years back if you look on the first page thus few things had changed since then.


    The last time I inspected Oxxford garments was 1.5 years ago and in my view they're still one of the best, not sure with now though.
     


  10. ryoneo

    ryoneo Senior member

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    Oxxford belongs in the highest bracket. Their 'Highest Quality' line can compete with just about any OTR maker. Their 1220 line might be a notch down from the HQ line, but still has tons of handwork and has a great cut.
     


  11. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    I actually like my Oxxford 1220 better than my St. Andrews RLPL suit. As far as handwork, they look much alike. Same goes for Construction and feel...slightly different fabric, but that's it. 1220 is probably the best "American made Italian suit" I've encountered.

    I've also tried more standard Oxxford suits, and while being much more conservative, they're excellent. So yeah, Oxxford belongs in the highest bracket.
     


  12. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

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    One thing to consider here is no matter how nice a suit is, if it doesn't fit me well, I ain't gonna buy it. Maybe I am saying something that is a no brainer but I would never buy a RLPL because I cannot properly fit into it regardless of its quality. I was at NeedlessMarkup couple weeks ago and tried on Tom Ford and Isaia and they were really nice but I looked like a kid wearing his dad's suit. I am 165lbs 6ft. I got off track but the point is I like the list but maybe there should be a list that would be reflective of age groups and their "taste."
     


  13. ryoneo

    ryoneo Senior member

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    The only problem is the 1220 pants are machine made, whereas the HQ line has the one-piece waistband set by hand.


    If you're considering dropping loot on TF, then maybe bespoke should be an option
     


  14. tspidey0012

    tspidey0012 New Member

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    I have some Hart, Schaffner, and Marx (HSM) suits and sport coats. Where do you rank in terms of quality? I have always wonder if they are half or full canvas constructed. In addition, my local merchant has brought in Jack Victor. Opinions? Ranking?
     


  15. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Senior member

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    Great,well organized list. I will refer to this list and any future updates when doing my suit or sportscoat/blazer shopping
     


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