The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    Last year I checked BBBF is "Made in USA" manufactured by Southwick and is half canvassed.


    I'd one Lanvin by Caruso suit and the cut is very slim. The suit is very sharp and well made though at an exorbitant price point at retail.
     
  2. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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  3. stevent

    stevent Senior member

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    Golden Fleece is Italy made now, used to be mostly Greenfield but they have a few southwick ones in Marshalls and the like. My point was it's hard to rank as within brands and within lines there are so many different makers / lines


    Black Fleece is mostly southwick for suiting and china / thailand for blazers and sports coats. Thom Browne is Comme des Garcons factory in Japan now.
     
  4. Outlaw 06

    Outlaw 06 Member

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    ^ Off the rack Golden Fleece suits are primarily made in the USA by Southwick and some are still made in Italy. Made to measure Golden Fleece suits are made by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn, NY.
     
  5. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    In terms of hand work, to which other brand would you compare it to?
     
  6. Outlaw 06

    Outlaw 06 Member

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    ^ I think that depends on how you special order it. BB offers a MTM option for 1/16 Picked Stitched or Hand Stitched coat lapels so those options may result in more handwork than the standard lapels.

    My MTM Golden Fleece suit jacket has hand sewn arm holes, hand stitched lapels, hand stitched chest (welt) pocket, hand sewn buttonholes and hand sewn sleeve buttonholes. My MTM trousers have a hand sewn waistband. I remember the sales associate telling me that there was 18 hours of handwork in every MTM Golden Fleece suit.

    Comparing the MTM Golden Fleece jacket to what I own, it definitely has less handwork than my Isaia Aquaspider sport coat and it has more handwork than my Corneliani sport coats.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012
  7. Docb16

    Docb16 New Member

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    Where would you guys put Benjamin Sartorial suits on this list?
     
  8. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Probably somewhere around the rest of the entry-level full canvassed suits (Corneliani, Canali). I've got one, and its a nicely made suit for the price.
     
  9. Lumaca

    Lumaca Active Member

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    I saw some Thierry Mugler suits yesterday, and was wondering if anyone can help. Does anyone know where they are made and if they're any good?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2012
  10. Hiras Fashion

    Hiras Fashion Senior member

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    I think owning a Thierry Mugler suit is like owning an exquisite piece of architecture and his suits are hailed for its structure that modls the body like sculpted art. There's boldness to it. A Vintage or genuine Thierry Mugler suit should be made in France.
     
  11. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    Can't see Oxxford here, but their suits are excellent, would put them right above BBGF. Own two Navy suits from both, that look identical, but the detailing and feel on the Oxxford is better. Two different fits though...BBGF is Madison, while the Oxxford is 1220.
     
  12. jazerad

    jazerad Well-Known Member

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    I actually own a Thierry Mugler suit its made in italy by Tombolini
     
  13. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    Not to derail this, but what are the signs of handwork vs. machine?
     
  14. Archimedes

    Archimedes Active Member

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    Can anyone recognize this label (see attached photo)? Also, what do WO, WM, WS stand for? If I remeber correctly the fabric was a wool/mohair blend so I suppose WO is wool, WM is mohair and WS cashmere?
    Thank you in advance

    [​IMG]
    [ATTACHMENT=4940]label.jpg (2,812k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2012
  15. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    Anyone have experience with Band of Outsiders suits?
     

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