Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.
I bought one suit as an experiment. I will post the fit in a few days.
Handled Sartorio by Kiton suit, better tailoring than mainline but craftsmanship is so so, not very neat finishing. But the main complaint is a fabric. It is a rag. Dull color, cheap and worn looking wool that should not be used for suits of this price-range.
So Sartorio suit is ok if fabric is satisfactory. the cut is a bit like Zegna with low button stance.
So when you say "better tailoring" you mean it fits YOU better than mainline? I'm only wondering because you follow that up with the craftsmanship being so so and the fabric being a rag etc.
I tried on a Kiton SC and was impressed by the fit (I'm a 38 R with a 7' drop). I also noticed that Kiton and Attolini garments have excellent lapel rolls.
Should I have used "more flattering cut" rather than tailoring? Perhaps. My gripe with mainline are: ugly roll on third button that makes it neither 2+1 nor 3 buttons, and unexplainable length of the suit jacket coupled with banana shaped pants (too wide in a seat and thigh tapering sharply to 7.4") a-la Cozak pants.
Caruso makes RLBL. I have a couple of RLBL suits and bought a Caruso made suit off Ebay. What I got was a completely different cut from the RLBL Anthony cut. They might be able to do it MTM, but I'd try to make sure the person measuring you knows what you want, super high arm holes, tapered sleeves, etc.
This is my first post. I’ve been lurking for a while and I want to thank many of you for greatly enhancing my sartorial knowledge.
A couple of years ago, I made a conscious adult decision to start dressing much more stylishly in most situations. I started by evaluating and selecting the styles, colors, patterns and fit that best compliment my physical characteristics (42L with an 8-inch drop). I also assessed my wardrobe and ended up donating all the items that didn’t fit me properly or were of mediocre quality. Then I made a list of new clothing items that I wanted to acquire and carefully revamped my wardrobe choosing clothing made with quality fabrics, materials, construction and tailoring. I started with a brand new Navy Blue BB Golden Fleece Fitzgerald suit (made in Italy) and a new pair of Black Allen Edmonds Strand dress shoes, and worked my way up from there. I now have three fully canvassed, hand tailored staple suits (including one MTM), four fully-canvassed, hand tailored sport coats and numerous shirts, ties, shoes, coats and accessories.
This and other threads have been very valuable in helping me build a quality wardrobe so far. I’ve also become very partial to Italian fabrics, styles and designers over the past few years. I definitely feel more comfortable and confident in well-tailored, quality attire and accessories that I’ve carefully selected to match my individual style. It’s still a work in progress though.
I didn’t intend to hijack this thread for my first post either…
Sorry for the (possibly) off-topic but I am in the process of getting a suit on a very short notice (don't ask) and I am currently considering either one from Lanvin or one from Balenciaga. Thanks to this (highly informative) thread, I am aware that Lanvin suits (the mainline at least) is made by Caruso, but who makes Balenciaga suits? I would think their quality would be on par with the "Very good suits", but I have found no evidence on who the actual manufacturer is.
Thank you in advance and again, I am sorry for the off-topic
Lanvin suits are made by both Caruso and Gruppo Forral (Pal Zileri).
Don't know about Balenciaga.
I ended up getting a Lanvin suit. Since I would like to know the manufacturer I though I should upload a picture of the inside tags in case someone can recognize whether it is made by Caruso or Pal Zileri. Thank you in advance and have a nice weekend!
[ATTACHMENT=4562]jacket (1,975k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
[ATTACHMENT=4562]trousers (1,975k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
Where did you get it from? Good price?
Are you positive? Seems strange since everyone else's seem to be by Caruso...
I got it from Matches, since I got it on retail price I wouldn't say it a bargain, but I'm happy with it and it suits its purpose (no pun intended)
Definitely Pal Zileri; Lanvin uses both companies.
The retail on the Caruso models are higher, but the PZ ones are good too.
Thank you for your help "othertravel".
To be honest, i was hoping for a Caruso made suit. I don't know that much about Pal Zileri I'm afraid. I think (and hope I'm right) that is is at least fully canvased since for 2k, a half-canvassed suit would be a rip-off. Do you by any chance how it compares to a Caruso-made Lanvin suit or if it stands closer to Zileri White label (would be my guess unfortunately) or Sartoriale? Thanks again and if anyone has any more info please chip-in
I was in a store in SF that sold Pal Zileri mainline and also handled made to measure orders as well.. Same fit as Canali Mainline and I feel the same level of quality.. I was told by the SA that there more than 250 stitches canvas wise... so I would put it a step below Isai if that helps, atleast from what the SA told me and the feel of it.. but really good fabrics though..
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