The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

Tags:
  1. IChen

    IChen Senior member

    Messages:
    284
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2012
    Location:
    Boston
    How is the quality and fit of Caruso? The Neimans has Caruso tailors coming in next next weekend and will do MTM for approximately $1600.

    And how do Caruso suits match up against Ralph Lauren Black Label? Thanks!
     
  2. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

    Messages:
    219
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    I think there's no linear classification... If you look at the handwork, nothing is better than Cesare Attolini. Kiton fabrics are nice and special to them but handwork is much less than Attolini etc. etc.
    Caruso SP line is at par with RLPL (i have both and even the styles are similar, RLPL having much more shoulder paddings but the treatment is similar).
     
  3. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    222
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    BB Golden Fleece is characterized as "Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category"? And ranked a category above mainline Canali and Zegna? I cannot follow this based on my experience with those brands.
     
  4. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,543
    Likes Received:
    705
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    

    Golden Fleece is partially hand made, whereas Canali and Mainline Zegna are machine made; can anybody confirm?
     
  5. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

    Messages:
    4,310
    Likes Received:
    78
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    GF has actually been made by several different manufacturers. Isn't it Southwick now? I doubt those have much handwork.
     
  6. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,543
    Likes Received:
    705
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Actually, I still see the Made in Italy (Lardini) ones in store. Southwick probably has an arrangement similar to Caruso where there is a section in the factory for handmade garments. Please correct me if somebody has toured the factory.
     
  7. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    222
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    


    I have also looked at many patterned Golden Fleece suits and the pattern matching is disastrous. Even at easy spots like the center rear seam of the suits stripes do not match. Maybe there is some handwork involved, but what does it help if the basics are off.

    You also need to take into consideration the quality of the fabrics, which I consider to be by far nicer in case of RTW Canali and especially RTW Zegna compared to the Saxxon fabrics of RTW BB GF.
     
  8. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    222
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2009
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    

    Last time I had a look (at the King of Prussia Mall) the available GF stuff was all Made in USA. On the current website it is both Made in USA and Made in Italy.
     
  9. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,155
    Likes Received:
    71
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2009
    

    You would kinda expect that because they apparently switched from St andrea to Caruso for RLPL some time back. You are right that you cannot do a linear classification and thats why this thread is attempting to group them and any differentiation within the various groups is just nitpicking as per your example of attolini having better handwork vs kiton's better fabric, but both of them are top tier when it comes to both fabric and handwork which is why they are both in the top ranking group.
     
  10. Cognacad

    Cognacad Senior member

    Messages:
    524
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    I don't post in here too often, but if I need to update the opening post (e.g., with newer instructions) I am happy to. Just send me a PM.
     
  11. Renton

    Renton Senior member

    Messages:
    540
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2010
    Location:
    MS
    Any opinions on the house line for Sid Mashburn?
     
  12. Hye Style

    Hye Style Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Where does Caraceni fit in on the list?
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2012
  13. Medwed

    Medwed Senior member

    Messages:
    3,161
    Likes Received:
    783
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2011
    Location:
    Boston->NYC->Helsinki->St.-Petersburg->Budapest->A
    Just handled two Kiton suits , fabrics are on par with Caruso or Partenopea. A lot of handwork around lapels collar and armholes. However the jackets are way too long for me (I am 5'11") the cut is ugly (hesitant 2 1/2).Pants have banana shape. Pants are actually nothing special in construction just curtain split waist no handwork that i can see. Overall I would not buy these suits at any price , I 'd rather take machine made Zegna Trofeo than Kiton's hand made awkwardness . Terribly disappointed in Kiton's tailoring.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2012
  14. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

    Messages:
    800
    Likes Received:
    149
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2012
    What kind of physique do you have?
     
  15. Fred49

    Fred49 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,681
    Likes Received:
    855
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2009
    Location:
    www.kitchenhip.com
    Richard Anderson is now making RTW. They are a great fit for a normal build, check them out on his website!!
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by