The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    very true. i prefer handSTITCHed ;)
     


  2. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Senior member

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    Is Thick As Thieves eligible for this list? Is so, where would they place?
     


  3. js4design

    js4design Senior member

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    Wow, that is surprising. I checked the website and found Golden Fleece removed from their as well. Ashame, but maybe they'll move their 1818 to full canvas like their sportcoats, and reserve the higher for their custom work.
     


  4. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    I wouldn't include TaT. They don't have any RTW.
     


  5. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Total noob question here guys, but is this list RTW and MTM only? Seems like no real bespoke brands featured on the list
     


  6. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Cleaning up the list.

    Anyone have clarification on:

    J. Press - There are different lines. I have a feeling it should be higher than Mediocre

    D'Avenza - From tuttofattoamano blog, I've read that D'Avenza isn't what it used to be. I think this list should be for suits that are currently made. What is the quality of current D'Avenza?

    Sartoria Partenopea - I know nothing about this brand.

    We also should include Cucinelli somewhere. They make RTW suits and sport coats. I think Very Good might be the place?

    Here is a draft:

    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza (old brand, includes RTW Gieves & Hawkes)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - St Andrew (includes made for RLPL)
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Tom Ford (made by Zegna)

    Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - Belvest
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Canali Milano
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Isaia
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    - Raffaelle Caruso (includes Sartoria Parma / some RLPL / RLBL / old RL Signature)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Thom Browne
    - Zegna Couture (higher quality than mainline Zegna)
    - Ermenegildo Zegna

    Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Hugo Boss Selection
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Giorgio Armani Black Label
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline
    - Samuelsohn

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Benjamin Sartorial
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Etro / Boglioli
    - Hackett
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvas)
    - hickey
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - Z-Zegna

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - J.Crew
    - J. Press
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2011


  7. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    RTW only
     


  8. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Sartoria Partenopea was started by a couple of Kiton tailors.
    With that said, their garments are typical of high end Neopolitan RTW tailoring, soft construction, lots of handwork, seems they do alot of half to quarter lined jackets.
    Ive not spent much time on their pants, but Im sure they are high quality.
    Their fits are trimmer than Kiton, I would put them in the same class as Sartorio, Stile Latino (attolini), etc. I would put them all a notch above Isaia mainline. They are geared towards a younger crowd, but retain the hand sewing and Neopolitan style cues that make them kick ass.
    Soft shoulders
    Open quarters
    Shorter skirts
    Very high notch placement
    Wider lapels.
     


  9. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Gotcha.
     


  10. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Gotcha..
     


  11. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    That sounds really great! I'd love to try some of their itmes on. I presume this would be in the finest category of suits?
     


  12. js4design

    js4design Senior member

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    Can anyone with experience with Paul Stuart speak about where they should fall on this list? Or is there a reason they haven't been included that was discussed earlier in the thread?
     


  13. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Paul Stuart has a number of labels that make for them, Isaia, St. Andrews, some Canadian company, and I am pretty sure some generic american outfit as well.
    Phineas Cole is made in Canada as well.

    Obviously the hierarchy goes-
    PS made by:
    St. Andrews
    Isaia
    Canadian
    Generic American...
     


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    interstingly enough i just handled one for the first time today. found it at last call, oxxford for neiman marcus. reg. price was 4K, i think with all sales maybe it was 50% off. was indeed a beautiful suit. superb fabric and handwork.
     


  15. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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