The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. magogian12345

    magogian12345 Senior member

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    Not to mention that the only Brionis most people see are the ones posted on the internet.

    If the suit fits well, wear it. Seriously, no dude is going to start checking out your sleeve buttons. And if he does, start moving away.

    Edit: To clarify, some people get hung up on the idea that suit "quality" depends on working sleeve buttons, pick stitching, and all those assorted frills that they see on pictures of Kitons. Or they get tied up with how they're constructed with this special kind of shoulder done by master artisans. You can't judge a suit by those qualities alone. You're going to have to put it on and wear it. I don't know if any single person has worn more than 4 of the brands mentioned, but they'd be ideal candidates for ranking them.


    Much of a "good fit" is dependent on the body of the wearer. As such, that criterion is of limited usefulness -- unless we are creating individual lists of what fits best on us.

    That said, attributes such as the type of canvassing affect fit. Consequently, it is better to focus on those objective attributes than the more vague and subjective "fit".
     


  2. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    Subscribed. Always looking to update my daily search list which consists of:

    Belvest
    Corneliani
    Isaia
    Borrelli
    Andrews
    Purple label
    Cantarelli
    Caruso,
    Brioni
    Zegna
    Faconnable
    Polo
    Barbera
    Samuelsohn
    Paul Stuart
    Phineas
     


  3. JonHecht

    JonHecht Senior member

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    Are polo suits worth picking up? I've seen a number at thrift stores and ignored them.
     


  4. Volkl

    Volkl Well-Known Member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - RLPL
    - Oxxford
    - Despos

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).
    - Brioni
    - Samuelsohn
    - Sartoria Partenopea



    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
    - Caruso
    - Canali
    - Corneliani
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Zegna
    - Isaia

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818
    - RLBL
    - Paul Smith
    -
    -

    Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    -
    -
    -


    Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    -
    -

    Added SP.
     


  5. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    Can someone more qualified then me please add: Some of the "designer" label suits like Prada, D&G, Dior, Jil Sander, etc... Some better label's sub lines like Z-Zegna, HUGO, Lab Zileri, etc Lower end lines like Club Monaco, Zara, J Crew, etc others - Etro, Pal Zileri...
     


  6. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    excellent should be Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, and Borrelli. dont know why Brioni is listed below. RLPL by st. Andrews can qualify for the top tier as well. i would say 90 percent of my gauge to suit quality comes from the luxuriousness and decadence of the fabrics used by these rtw. and by that gauge, brioni has to be up on top, no question about it.
     


  7. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - RLPL
    - Oxxford
    - Despos

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).
    - Brioni
    - Samuelsohn
    - Sartoria Partenopea



    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
    - Caruso
    - Canali
    - Corneliani
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Zegna
    - Isaia
    - RLBL


    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818
    - Paul Smith
    -
    -

    Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    -
    -
    -


    Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    - Lauren Ralph Lauren
    - Calvin Klein
    - Tasso Elba
    - Nautica


    Moved RLBL. Added BBBF, TE, CK, LRL, Nau.

    Yeah, broke the rules, but who else would clean up the trash and add the department store brands?
     


  8. magogian12345

    magogian12345 Senior member

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    RLBL is not on par with Golden Fleece, Black Fleece, Hickey Freeman, and other such brands.
     


  9. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Suitsupply-sider

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    RLBL is not on par with Golden Fleece, Black Fleece, Hickey Freeman, and other such brands.

    Nor is RLPL on par with Kiton or Oxxford imho, at least not last time I looked.
     


  10. vitaminc

    vitaminc Senior member

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    excellent should be Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, and Borrelli. dont know why Brioni is listed below.
    RLPL by st. Andrews can qualify for the top tier as well.

    i would say 90 percent of my gauge to suit quality comes from the luxuriousness and decadence of the fabrics used by these rtw.

    and by that gauge, brioni has to be up on top, no question about it.


    +1 Brioni's fabrics is at least on par with RLPL if not better.
     


  11. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Nor is RLPL on par with Kiton or Oxxford imho, at least not last time I looked.
    I agree ... especially when one knows who makes them. I do ... and I'll be you do too AF.

    Are we including bespoke?
     


  12. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Can somebody explain why Tasso Elba is inferior to Banana Republic Monogram? What about Alfani? Do they still make suits?
     


  13. magogian12345

    magogian12345 Senior member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Despos
    - Brioni

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).
    - Samuelsohn
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - RLPL


    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
    - Caruso
    - Canali
    - Corneliani
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Zegna
    - Isaia
    - RL Black Label


    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818
    - Paul Smith
    - RLBL
    - H. Freeman

    Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
    - Hugo Boss
    - Banana Republic Monogram
    -
    -
    -


    Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
    - H&M
    - Banana Republic
    - Lauren Ralph Lauren
    - Calvin Klein
    - Tasso Elba
    - Nautica
     


  14. cksnipe

    cksnipe Senior member

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    I added Attolini (2 lines) and Borrelli
    RLBL is not on par with Golden Fleece, Black Fleece, Hickey Freeman, and other such brands.
    Isn't RLBL, some BBBF and some BBGF all made by Caruso (shouldn't they be fairly similar in quality and construction)? Also, from the suits I've owned, my St. Andrews made RLPL suits are significantly higher quality than my Samuelsohn suits. I can't really speak for Sartoria Partenopea. Finally, I think Isaia should be bumped up one category. Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items) - Kiton - Oxxford - Despos - Brioni - Cesare Attolini Napoli - Borrelli Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value). - Sartoria Partenopea - RLPL - Sartoria Attolini Napoli Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average). - Samuelsohn - Caruso - Canali - Corneliani - Hickey Freeman Mainline - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece - Zegna - Isaia - RL Black Label Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it). - Cantarelli - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric) - Brooks Brothers 1818 - Paul Smith - RLBL - H. Freeman Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit). - Hugo Boss - Banana Republic Monogram - - - Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for). - H&M - Banana Republic - Lauren Ralph Lauren - Calvin Klein - Tasso Elba - Nautica
     


  15. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    Lauren Ralph Lauren isn't all bad. I have owned 4 and still own two LRL suits and they remain a great value, granted I got them under $150 new, but the cut, fit, fabrics & overall quality is way better than some BB 1818 and other brand suits I have owned.
     


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