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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    I agree, also, WTF on having Thom Ford in the top tier along with RLPL????

    J-Crew???

    This list is a mess.
     


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Also aren't there quite a few different grades of Isaia? I'm assuming here the top mark is being given to the highest Isaia line, but I can't remember which that is...IIRC there is a confusing taxonomy of Isaia labels that range from pretty good to top notch.
     


  3. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    True, I have several models (base S, gianluca, etc) but I guess I have not tried them all. Is one known to have better construction?
     


  4. Klobber

    Klobber Senior member

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    The list should be on the front page, with OP editing his first comment as updates come in. He should take responsibility of all peoples listings and organizing as such. A bit like what was done on the Ralph Lauren thread. As it is, nobody is going to seriously trawl through 29 pages just to find out info.
     


  5. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Someone could start a new thread without all the clutter.
     


  6. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    ^^^ +1, somebody needs to just go through the whole thread and clean up the list and repost in a new thread and get this one locked.

    anyone?
     


  7. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I'd do it tomorrow if no one does it tonight. It's slow here in the morning :p

    Bear in mind I'd be using the knowledge in the thread, as I have not experienced all of these brands. So it would be best if one of the more experienced tailors did it instead of me :D
     


  8. Klobber

    Klobber Senior member

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    Do that, form a list and if there are mistakes, the watchful eyes here will correct you iteratively. It should be an ongoing thread, additions appearing regularly. There will of course be disagreements over what goes where, but no list could be perfect. If general consensus is to move this brand up one level, then apply rules of democracy and jump it up.

    The most important thing is to commit to paper first, whether it is correct or incorrect. The rest will take care of itself.
     


  9. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    anything that bears the isaia red label or the older gianluca isaia black label is of the same quality, regardless of which "base" it is. differences will be stylistic only. the bottom line - if the label has the word "isaia" in it, it's isaia's top (and only) level of quality.

    the gianluca sublabel has been killed off.
     


  10. Quarks

    Quarks Senior member

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    Tom Ford although made in Zegna factory, they have their own allocated manufacture. Zegna designers are seperated from Tom Ford's to prevent any influence imparted into Zegna's lines. And they are particularly careful about that. Tom Ford's suit have features that are exclusive to TF, and does not exist in Zegna's line. Everyone's not going to be happy with the list. Regardless, there will always be a disagreement. Just like this one.
     


  11. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Yeah, there are problem with the list. That's why it's a working list. Come on! Add your additions/change things. I agree, perhaps TF should be in the penultimate tier.
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2011


  12. CBrown85

    CBrown85 Senior member

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    It is. Nonetheless, odd list.
     


  13. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    At one time there was as far as Isaia lines:
    Enrico Isaia
    GianLuca Isaia
    GianLuca Napoli
    Michael Angelo
    Collarasso

    the last three are all much less expensive and far lower in quality than Isaia main line.

    There has also been:
    Isaia, there is an old version of just the last name, the label looks similar to the Enrico Isaia lables, but doesnt have blue or the Enrico name. There is also the newer versions that went from black to red.
    The highest-the Enrico Isaia, are amazing and do belong in the top tier, however, the mainline is not in the same boat.

    In comparing the mainline to RCSP-Caruso, the nod in my book goes to Caruso, but keep in mind, there are also a few tiers of Caruso.
     


  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    This is what I'm talking about. I tried on an amazing Isaia sportcoat in a NM once and set about to try and buy some Isaia, but once I learned about this massive clusterf&ck of different labels I just threw up my hands as I couldn't be sure what I was getting.
     


  15. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Another thing that may be helpful over time with this thread is to give some defining characteristics of each maker.
    Like:

    Isaia Mainline (Red label, black label)-
    Handsewn button holes
    Full canvass
    Hand attached collars
    Models S and V are slim, little to no padding, with high notch placement, shorter body with open quarters.

    Belvest-
    Typically mostly machine made, but to a very high standard.
    Hand attached collars
    Lightly padded shoulders
    Full canvass
    extrordinary fabric selections, always high quality
    Pants fit slim in waist, full in lower leg
    Jackets are longish, with a lean midsection


    Just a thought and examples.
     


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