The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[antirabbit]



I'm a little surprised to see Caruso Sartoria Parma below Isaia grade, as I would consider the Caruso SP SC I have to be at least as nice as the Isaia SC's I have. Then again I'm sure others know what to look for better than I do

I agree, also, WTF on having Thom Ford in the top tier along with RLPL????

J-Crew???

This list is a mess.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I'm a little surprised to see Caruso Sartoria Parma below Isaia grade, as I would consider the Caruso SP SC I have to be at least as nice as the Isaia SC's I have. Then again I'm sure others know what to look for better than I do

Also aren't there quite a few different grades of Isaia? I'm assuming here the top mark is being given to the highest Isaia line, but I can't remember which that is...IIRC there is a confusing taxonomy of Isaia labels that range from pretty good to top notch.

 

[Achilles_]



Also aren't there quite a few different grades of Isaia? I'm assuming here the top mark is being given to the highest Isaia line, but I can't remember which that is...IIRC there is a confusing taxonomy of Isaia labels that range from pretty good to top notch.

True, I have several models (base S, gianluca, etc) but I guess I have not tried them all. Is one known to have better construction?

 

[Klobber]

The list should be on the front page, with OP editing his first comment as updates come in. He should take responsibility of all peoples listings and organizing as such. A bit like what was done on the Ralph Lauren thread. As it is, nobody is going to seriously trawl through 29 pages just to find out info.

 

[Achilles_]



The list should be on the front page, with OP editing his first comment as updates come in. He should take responsibility of all peoples listings and organizing as such. A bit like what was done on the Ralph Lauren thread. As it is, nobody is going to seriously trawl through 29 pages just to find out info.

Someone could start a new thread without all the clutter.

 

[Master-Classter]

^^^ +1, somebody needs to just go through the whole thread and clean up the list and repost in a new thread and get this one locked.

anyone?

 

[Achilles_]

I'd do it tomorrow if no one does it tonight. It's slow here in the morning

Bear in mind I'd be using the knowledge in the thread, as I have not experienced all of these brands. So it would be best if one of the more experienced tailors did it instead of me

 

[Klobber]



I'd do it tomorrow if no one does it tonight. It's slow here in the morning
Bear in mind I'd be using the knowledge in the thread, as I have not experienced all of these brands. So it would be best if one of the more experienced tailors did it instead of me

Do that, form a list and if there are mistakes, the watchful eyes here will correct you iteratively. It should be an ongoing thread, additions appearing regularly. There will of course be disagreements over what goes where, but no list could be perfect. If general consensus is to move this brand up one level, then apply rules of democracy and jump it up.

The most important thing is to commit to paper first, whether it is correct or incorrect. The rest will take care of itself.

 

[OttoSkadelig]



True, I have several models (base S, gianluca, etc) but I guess I have not tried them all. Is one known to have better construction?

anything that bears the isaia red label or the older gianluca isaia black label is of the same quality, regardless of which "base" it is. differences will be stylistic only. the bottom line - if the label has the word "isaia" in it, it's isaia's top (and only) level of quality.

the gianluca sublabel has been killed off.

 

[Quarks]



Bumping the thread. Originally added Tom Ford, but forgot it was Zegna, right? Remember, only one change and only one level of quality raising or lowering at a time, for those who are new to this thread.
Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Oxxford
- RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
- St Andrew
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Thom Browne
Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Belvest
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Jil Sander tailor made
- Lanvin
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Zegna Couture (includes Tom Ford)
Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Etro / Boglioli
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Giorgio Armani (black label)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline
- Samuelsohn
Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Benjamin Sartorial
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Hackett
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvas)
- hickey
- J Crew
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- Z-Zegna
Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- H&M
- Hugo Boss
- J. Press
- Joseph Abboud
- Marco Valentino (half canvas)

Tom Ford although made in Zegna factory, they have their own allocated manufacture. Zegna designers are seperated from Tom Ford's to prevent any influence imparted into Zegna's lines. And they are particularly careful about that. Tom Ford's suit have features that are exclusive to TF, and does not exist in Zegna's line. Everyone's not going to be happy with the list. Regardless, there will always be a disagreement. Just like this one.

 

[musicguy]

Yeah, there are problem with the list. That's why it's a working list. Come on! Add your additions/change things. I agree, perhaps TF should be in the penultimate tier.

 

[CBrown85]

It is. Nonetheless, odd list.

 

[antirabbit]

At one time there was as far as Isaia lines:
Enrico Isaia
GianLuca Isaia
GianLuca Napoli
Michael Angelo
Collarasso

the last three are all much less expensive and far lower in quality than Isaia main line.

There has also been:
Isaia, there is an old version of just the last name, the label looks similar to the Enrico Isaia lables, but doesnt have blue or the Enrico name. There is also the newer versions that went from black to red.
The highest-the Enrico Isaia, are amazing and do belong in the top tier, however, the mainline is not in the same boat.

In comparing the mainline to RCSP-Caruso, the nod in my book goes to Caruso, but keep in mind, there are also a few tiers of Caruso.

 

[unbelragazzo]



At one time there was as far as Isaia lines:
Enrico Isaia
GianLuca Isaia
GianLuca Napoli
Michael Angelo
Collarasso
the last three are all much less expensive and far lower in quality than Isaia main line.
There has also been:
Isaia, there is an old version of just the last name, the label looks similar to the Enrico Isaia lables, but doesnt have blue or the Enrico name. There is also the newer versions that went from black to red.
The highest-the Enrico Isaia, are amazing and do belong in the top tier, however, the mainline is not in the same boat.

This is what I'm talking about. I tried on an amazing Isaia sportcoat in a NM once and set about to try and buy some Isaia, but once I learned about this massive clusterf&ck of different labels I just threw up my hands as I couldn't be sure what I was getting.

 

[antirabbit]

Another thing that may be helpful over time with this thread is to give some defining characteristics of each maker.
Like:

Isaia Mainline (Red label, black label)-
Handsewn button holes
Full canvass
Hand attached collars
Models S and V are slim, little to no padding, with high notch placement, shorter body with open quarters.

Belvest-
Typically mostly machine made, but to a very high standard.
Hand attached collars
Lightly padded shoulders
Full canvass
extrordinary fabric selections, always high quality
Pants fit slim in waist, full in lower leg
Jackets are longish, with a lean midsection


Just a thought and examples.