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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    I go to Mark Shale, but if you're not in Chicago or Dallas, that might not help. Bloomies here also has Canali at 40% off fairly often
     


  2. Tano

    Tano Senior member

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    Can someone please explain why Oxxford suits sell on ebay for ~ $99 second hand and a ton of them appear when i filter for suits <$400 but its never see attolini, RLPL, kiton, Tom Ford in my searches etc. If these are the 1st tier then shouldnt i assume other first tier suits should appear in my searches? Does Oxxford have many different lines or produce 10x as many suits as these guys so its just a numbers game? This is my ebay search (im looking for good quality 2nd hand suits since im a novice to dressing well). (39, 38 ) (Attolini, Antichi, Belvest, Barbera, Barrie, Borrelli, Bijan, Brioni, Cantarelli, Corneliani, Canali, Caruso, castagnia, "D'Avenza", Freeman,Kiton, Isaia, Oxxford, "Purple Label", "St. Andrews", "Stuart's Choice", Zegna, "Thom Browne", "Tom Ford", "Zileri sartoriale") xcellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items) - Kiton - Oxxford -Thom Browne - Brioni - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best) - Luigi Borrelli - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand) - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale - St Andrew - Sartoria Partenopea - Isaia - D'Avenza - Sartoria Castangia Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category). - Belvest --Lanvin -Jil Sander tailor made - Corneliani Linea Sartoria - Sartoria Attolini Napoli - Canali Milano - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality) - Ravazzolo - Zegna Couture - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
     


  3. jcriswel

    jcriswel Senior member

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    Can someone please explain why Oxxford suits sell on ebay for ~ $99
    This is a question I have asked myself many times. There are many threads here and on AAAC on Oxxford that more or less ask and answer this question. I think the reason is the company depended on traditional conservative business dress for so many years. They are changing, slowly. In the meantime, because their clothing is extremely well made (lasts a long time), there is a bunch of it on the used clothing market that is still in excellent condition. Unfortunately, the styling is out of touch. Large supply plus out of touch styling = low auction prices, regardless of the quality of construction.
     


  4. andr3pwd

    andr3pwd Senior member

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    Anyone have experience or opinion on Hart Schaffner Marx MTM? My tailor showed me a recent example for one of his customers; fully canvassed, &quot;American Modern&quot; fit, FF, Loro Piana 150's, nice handiwork (pick stitching, ticket pocket, working buttonholes). This suit was going to be around $1500 but HSN custom can start arpund $900.
     


  5. beerbudget

    beerbudget Well-Known Member

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    Can someone please explain why Oxxford suits sell on ebay for ~ $99 second hand and a ton of them appear when i filter for suits <$400 but its never see attolini, RLPL, kiton, Tom Ford in my searches etc. If these are the 1st tier then shouldnt i assume other first tier suits should appear in my searches?

    Does Oxxford have many different lines or produce 10x as many suits as these guys so its just a numbers game?

    This is my ebay search (im looking for good quality 2nd hand suits since im a novice to dressing well).
    (39, 38 ) (Attolini, Antichi, Belvest, Barbera, Barrie, Borrelli, Bijan, Brioni, Cantarelli, Corneliani, Canali, Caruso, castagnia, "D'Avenza", Freeman,Kiton, Isaia, Oxxford, "Purple Label", "St. Andrews", "Stuart's Choice", Zegna, "Thom Browne", "Tom Ford", "Zileri sartoriale")



    xcellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford

    -Thom Browne
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Isaia
    - D'Avenza
    - Sartoria Castangia

    Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    --Lanvin
    -Jil Sander tailor made
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Canali Milano
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage


    I believe Kiton and Oxxford should be in a class of their own. With possibly Thom Browne (if made to the exact standards as Oxxford ), and Cesare Attolini Napoli, (Keep reading good reports on C Attolini). So maybe Excellent Class A, for these and excellent for rest.

    From my experience Brioni is a slight notch below. St.Andrews/RLPL & D'Avenza very close next. Borrelli, Sartorio Castangia then Isaia (I think Isaia is borderline excellent, more a very, very good, would Belvest be equivalant?). Not familiar enough with Luciano Barbera and Sartorio Partenopea.

    Not knocking any of the below Excellent Class A (all extremely good), but feel there is a gap after Kiton and Oxxford and possibly TB and CA.

    Thoughts?.
     


  6. loiclac

    loiclac Senior member

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    I second the call to see Gieves and Hawkes, Ede and Ravenscroft, Kilgour or Boateng put on the list. the first two are made by a company called wensum (Wensum own label Bladen. and bladen as well.

    I am curious about ferragamo and Feraud as well.
     


  7. 7smcb

    7smcb Active Member

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    Agreed. Thoughts on E&amp;R, Gieves, etc?
     


  8. Unregistered

    Unregistered Senior member

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    Where would TF RTW sit?
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This thread is utterly ridiculous in its scope and expectation.
     


  10. Dressed2the9s

    Dressed2the9s Senior member

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    Thanks for the hierarchical suit quality thread. Its great to have a thread like this to reference when you're still learning about suit quality brands in our current market!
     


  11. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    Bump.

    I think this thread could help a lot of new members, plus I find it interesting to discuss. :)
     


  12. Cognacad

    Cognacad Senior member

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    Oh look at this thing still "going"! My opening post might not do the goal justice so I am happy to completely edit it if someone has a good replacement post (and I'll give credit of course!). PM might be necessary, I haven't seen this thing in months.
     


  13. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Bumping the thread. Originally added Tom Ford, but forgot it was Zegna, right? Remember, only one change and only one level of quality raising or lowering at a time, for those who are new to this thread.

    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli
    - D'Avenza
    - Isaia
    - Kiton
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - Oxxford
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - St Andrew
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Thom Browne

    Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Canali Milano
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Jil Sander tailor made
    - Lanvin
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Zegna Couture (includes Tom Ford)

    Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Corneliani
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Etro / Boglioli
    - Faconnable Tailleur
    - Giorgio Armani (black label)
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Paul Smith Mainline
    - Samuelsohn

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Benjamin Sartorial
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Cantarelli
    - Hackett
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvas)
    - hickey
    - J Crew
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - Z-Zegna

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - H&M
    - Hugo Boss
    - J. Press
    - Joseph Abboud
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas)
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2011


  14. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    Where would Hart Schaffner Marx Gold Trumpeter fit on the list?
     


  15. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I'm a little surprised to see Caruso Sartoria Parma below Isaia grade, as I would consider the Caruso SP SC I have to be at least as nice as the Isaia SC's I have. Then again I'm sure others know what to look for better than I do :)
     


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