The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[Made in California]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

+1. Depends on the Ferre line. Even within the mainline are different levels, including some (for a while) that were made by Attolini. I'd say, overall, to avoid Ferre unless you get it from the Ferre store, because most of the discounted stuff at other places is old, dead stock, crap. They've also switched makers so many times that who knows who made the suit you might get.

Also, keep in mind that Ferre Studio, GFFEFFE, GFF, OAKS, Ferre 0001, Ferre White, Ferre Red, etc. haven't existed for nearly 10 years. The current brand has only 3 labels... Gianfranco Ferre (mainline), Ferre Milano (diffusion), and GF Ferre (younger/sportswear.)

Some of the names of the diffusion lines you mentioned sound really lame. OAKS? Wtf is that. The location I was looking at was YOOX, and in the designer index it falls under FERRE' (apostrophe instead of accented 'E'). It looks like YOOX carries five different lines

:

* FERRE'
* GF FERRE'
* GFF BY GIANFRANCO FERRE'
* GIANFRANCO FERRE'
* GIANFRANCO FERRE' STUDIO

Does this mean that they carry items that are 10 years old?! I can't imagine that that's the case, that'd be crazy! Like right now I am so confused I am starting to see art materialize on my walls.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by Made in California

Some of the names of the diffusion lines you mentioned sound really lame. OAKS? Wtf is that. The location I was looking at was YOOX, and in the designer index it falls under FERRE' (apostrophe instead of accented 'E'). It looks like YOOX carries five different lines

: * FERRE' * GF FERRE' * GFF BY GIANFRANCO FERRE' * GIANFRANCO FERRE' * GIANFRANCO FERRE' STUDIO Does this mean that they carry items that are 10 years old?! I can't imagine that that's the case, that'd be crazy! Like right now I am so confused I am starting to see art materialize on my walls.
Yep, it means they have dead stock that is really old. It happens sometimes; I've seen old Valentino items on there sometimes, too. Yoox is caveat emptor like anything else. Luckily, their returns policy is good. This is all why I say it's not really a good idea to buy Ferre unless you are at the Ferre store. They have a boutique on Rodeo Drive, btw, if you are interested and want to check out current offerings/lines. I would NOT buy Ferre on yoox.

 

[Made in California]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

Yep, it means they have dead stock that is really old. It happens sometimes; I've seen old Valentino items on there sometimes, too. Yoox is caveat emptor like anything else. Luckily, their returns policy is good.

This is all why I say it's not really a good idea to buy Ferre unless you are at the Ferre store. They have a boutique on Rodeo Drive, btw, if you are interested and want to check out current offerings/lines. I would NOT buy Ferre on yoox.

What's interesting about the Ferre item is that it didn't go on sale (now a lot of stuff is 30% off). Why don't they discount it more so they can get rid of it? It's not like they have to worry about sullying the reputation of the line ...

What actually happened was I bought the Ferre suit, tried it on, loved the jacket, but the pants wouldn't fit even if let out all the way so I felt I had no choice but to return it. I really liked the jacket, though, and had this idea that when it went like, 60% off, I could buy it just for the upper.

Is this a stupid idea? I mean it's kept in storage so it's not like it looks aged.

 

[GucciMonster]

This list is only stupid because people are confusing 'fit' and 'value' with quality.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by Made in California

What's interesting about the Ferre item is that it didn't go on sale (now a lot of stuff is 30% off). Why don't they discount it more so they can get rid of it? It's not like they have to worry about sullying the reputation of the line ... What actually happened was I bought the Ferre suit, tried it on, loved the jacket, but the pants wouldn't fit even if let out all the way so I felt I had no choice but to return it. I really liked the jacket, though, and had this idea that when it went like, 60% off, I could buy it just for the upper. Is this a stupid idea? I mean it's kept in storage so it's not like it looks aged.

The suit might be fine, I'm just saying don't rely on Yoox, as really they have no idea what items they have and often don't really describe their items acurately, less on purpose than just from ignorance about all the brands they carry. And Ferre is a particularly slippery one, too, because of over licensing, multiple changes in production/designer, etc. Unless you know the brand well, I'm just saying buying Ferre not-in-person can be a crapshoot.

 

[svelten]

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

I would like to see a BAD section.

Zara

Dior Homme

Armani ( other than black label )

D & G

Gucci

Prada

And most of the designer brands

I propose to re-insert the fractional ratings into the current working list. It's important for me to know the difference between suits that are "badder than really bad" and "baddest", damnit!

Of all those brands I wouldn't expect Dior Homme to be in such poor company

 

[laphroaig]

Originally Posted by svelten

I propose to re-insert the fractional ratings into the current working list. It's important for me to know the difference between suits that are "badder than really bad" and "baddest", damnit! Of all those brands I wouldn't expect Dior Homme to be in such poor company
This shouldn't need repeating, but this list is almost useless. Some of the suggestions in the list started as poor jokes. The section you quoted is especially bad. It doesn't mention which lines or dates and includes several brands made by Corneliani? Are you interested in the amount of handwork, quality of materials used, construction, cut? This list doesn't cater to any of that.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by svelten

I propose to re-insert the fractional ratings into the current working list. It's important for me to know the difference between suits that are "badder than really bad" and "baddest", damnit! Of all those brands I wouldn't expect Dior Homme to be in such poor company
Agree with the post just above mine. Also, the designer hate around here is overhyped and overplayed, full of dreadful misinformation, and has been since I first read this forum back years ago. Dozens... hundreds?... of posts have tried to correct this and add a little sanity, but still there is the across-the-board "OMG Designer= bad." Prada's entry level suits are Cantarelli, upper level are Belvest. Dior suits are very nice, too. Gucci is made by Zegna, and Valentino has had a line made by Isaia. How are those "Crap?" Anyway, the simple point is having a list of "bad" with such general groupings is ridiculous. You have to do your homework as a buyer and find the right suit for you, whether designer or not.

 

[GoldenTribe]

EDIT: sorry for necrobump, I forgot I had clicked a link from another thread to get here.

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

I would like to see a BAD section. Zara Dior Homme Armani ( other than black label ) D & G Gucci Prada And most of the designer brands

Originally Posted by svelten

Of all those brands I wouldn't expect Dior Homme to be in such poor company
He's an idiot, don't give it a moment's thought. For instance, Gucci suits are made to excellent standards (by Zegna or Dunhill or someone? I forget). Prada and Dior may be overpriced but they're hardly "crap" across the board. Too many foolish generalizations in here.

 

[rsuhandy]

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised. many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list. i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.
Exactly, I have a Prada suit that is made by Belvest and is fullly canvassed. Even better I paid $120 for it

 

[Nicola]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

Prada's entry level suits are Cantarelli, upper level are Belvest. Dior suits are very nice, too. Gucci is made by Zegna, and Valentino has had a line made by Isaia. How are those "Crap?" Anyway, the simple point is having a list of "bad" with such general groupings is ridiculous. You have to do your homework as a buyer and find the right suit for you, whether designer or not.


While I agree with your point all those makers make different quality levels under their own names. Why wouldn't they for others? Having been outsourced to a "quality" maker doesn't really mean much on it's own.

I think the best point is to do your homework and know what you're buying.

 

[dieselman89]

Gents,

I am looking to stay under $1,000 for my next suit. I do not want to buy online or on B&S. I prefet to see the suit/fabric in person and possibly try the fabric on (if on hand). With those two factors in mind what are y'alls suggestions?

I am slimmer fitting. Suits that fit well with my build are E. Zegna and Hugo Boss. I don't want to purchase a HB suit and cannot afford $2,000 on E. Zegna. I am looking at MTM at a local tailor which will run $700-800. My other options are Brooks Brothers 1818 Milano or Fitzgerald.

What are the thoughts/suggestions? I want a quality suit...

 

[jpbova]

Originally Posted by Arms_Akimbo

I'd be interested to see a TaT placement.

I second this. I only saw one comment on this but I would like to see others weigh in.

 

[ChicagoRon]

Originally Posted by dieselman89

Gents, I am looking to stay under $1,000 for my next suit. I do not want to buy online or on B&S. I prefet to see the suit/fabric in person and possibly try the fabric on (if on hand). With those two factors in mind what are y'alls suggestions? I am slimmer fitting. Suits that fit well with my build are E. Zegna and Hugo Boss. I don't want to purchase a HB suit and cannot afford $2,000 on E. Zegna. I am looking at MTM at a local tailor which will run $700-800. My other options are Brooks Brothers 1818 Milano or Fitzgerald. What are the thoughts/suggestions? I want a quality suit...
If you can wait for a sale, you should also be able to do Corneliani / Canali for that price range.

 

[dieselman89]

Originally Posted by ChicagoRon

If you can wait for a sale, you should also be able to do Corneliani / Canali for that price range.

What are places that you think will have them? I've only seen Saks, Niemans and Nordstrom has a limited selection. According to the Nordstrom SA they are no longer carrying high end suits like that.