The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Counting on outsourcing is a dangerous path. The companies will make whatever you pay them to make. They aren't putting their name on the garment. The standards on outsourced garments are those that the name is paying for.
     
  2. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    Counting on outsourcing is a dangerous path. The companies will make whatever you pay them to make. They aren't putting their name on the garment. The standards on outsourced garments are those that the name is paying for.
    That may be very true. However, to discount a brand simply because of the name without checking the construction is equally as "dangerous". If your response was targeted at my response, then my point was simply for people to look at something which appeals to them, then decide whether the "quality" is something that they are comfortable with. Clint
     
  3. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    No I was addressing OttoSkadelig point about good companies making things and then seeming to rely on that. You can't count on anything really. Companies change suppliers. They change quality standards. They change cuts.

    People need to look at things and decide if it's good/bad.
     
  4. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    No I was addressing OttoSkadelig point about good companies making things and then seeming to rely on that. You can't count on anything really. Companies change suppliers. They change quality standards. They change cuts.

    People need to look at things and decide if it's good/bad.


    I understand and completely agree. I'm not that sure about clothing companies (I'm not very good at determining the finer details), but what you've noted can be particularly true of shoe companies.

    I'm not sure whether this is been answered before. I've read several threads regarding quality manufacturing. However, I don't recall someone providing a checklist for what makes for a "good" item of clothing.

    I guess it's subjective, but a "dummy's" guide would be useful (especially for me).

    I'll have a search now to see if anything has been attempted.

    Clint
     
  5. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    No I was addressing OttoSkadelig point about good companies making things and then seeming to rely on that. You can't count on anything really. Companies change suppliers. They change quality standards. They change cuts.

    People need to look at things and decide if it's good/bad.


    i wasn't suggesting you count on anything. i am suggesting that just as it would be a bad idea to assume that any designer's product is consistently good, it is as bad an idea to assume it is consistently bad.
     
  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I don't know why there isn't much love for Zegna (I'm sure that there are many reasons), but to my mind, they make a good SC/suit, especially if you can get them on discount and in one of their better fabrics.

    So, I, at least, will always have a soft spot for Zegna.

    Clint


    +1 My favorite RTW sport coats are actually, and to my surprise, Zegna main line.
     
  7. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Senior member

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    Yeah where would we place a brand like Prada on this list?

    I edited my BAD section to add Prada, thanks,

    What's with the Zegna hate, even at the Couture XXX level?

    Their shoulders are huge and it´s overpriced. You can get almost 2 Zileris that are far better for the price of an average Zegna.

    One of their tailors came to my city last week and he tried to fool me with the salesman that he could do a Spallacamiccia shoulder for me and the example that he gave me was a horrible Milano line jacket for 1800 euros. A Zileri mtm with super 150 Piana fabric is worth 1050 euros...
     
  8. Siggy

    Siggy Senior member

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    I don't know why there isn't much love for Zegna (I'm sure that there are many reasons), but to my mind, they make a good SC/suit, especially if you can get them on discount and in one of their better fabrics.

    So, I, at least, will always have a soft spot for Zegna.

    Clint


    No doubt they have some nice stuff, but their suits don't look good on me and they are overpriced.
     
  9. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    I edited my BAD section to add Prada, thanks,

    Their shoulders are huge and it´s overpriced. You can get almost 2 Zileris that are far better for the price of an average Zegna.

    One of their tailors came to my city last week and he tried to fool me with the salesman that he could do a Spallacamiccia shoulder for me and the example that he gave me was a horrible Milano line jacket for 1800 euros. A Zileri mtm with super 150 Piana fabric is worth 1050 euros...


    No doubt they have some nice stuff, but their suits don't look good on me and they are overpriced.

    I'm sorry that you hate Zegna Couture so much. I must have broad shoulders, because I quite enjoy the Zegna styling. However, I will admit that some styles are boxier than others.

    I can only express my (limited) personal opinion here. I've never purchased a full price Zegna, so I feel that I've got some good value for money in my purchases.

    I'm also lucky to have some Pal Zileri Sartoriale SC's (not a suit - yet) and I see what is said about the PZ shoulders being softer than the Couture. However, my Zegna stuff, including the Zegna Couture fit me well and I'm used to them. I also love the fabrics very much.

    Anyway, I think that I've hijacked the thread for long enough.

    Clint
     
  10. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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  11. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    I'm sorry that you hate Zegna Couture so much. I must have broad shoulders, because I quite enjoy the Zegna styling. However, I will admit that some styles are boxier than others.

    I can only express my (limited) personal opinion here. I've never purchased a full price Zegna, so I feel that I've got some good value for money in my purchases.

    I'm also lucky to have some Pal Zileri Sartoriale SC's (not a suit - yet) and I see what is said about the PZ shoulders being softer than the Couture. However, my Zegna stuff, including the Zegna Couture fit me well and I'm used to them. I also love the fabrics very much.

    Anyway, I think that I've hijacked the thread for long enough.

    Clint


    Zegna has a Trofeo 600 suit which has shoulders which are almost as soft as an Isaia. From what I understand Zegna Couture has just as much handiwork as Attolini (someone correct me if I am wrong).
     
  12. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    My shoulders are tiny and it´s overpriced. You can get almost 2 Zileris that are far better for the price of an average Zegna.

    ..


    Fixed that for you.
     
  13. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Zegna has a Trofeo 600 suit which has shoulders which are almost as soft as an Isaia. From what I understand Zegna Couture has just as much handiwork as Attolini (someone correct me if I am wrong).

    Dunno about as much as Attolini, but they are definitely up there.
     
  14. acl1

    acl1 Senior member

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    Zegna has a Trofeo 600 suit which has shoulders which are almost as soft as an Isaia. From what I understand Zegna Couture has just as much handiwork as Attolini (someone correct me if I am wrong).

    While Zegna Couture has a good amount of pick stitching (lapels, buttonholes, etc), Attolini has much more if not better quality handiwork throughout. This is part of the reason why Attolini is consistently at the top of these types of lists.
     
  15. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    Where would FerrÃ[​IMG] go on this list?
    If you mean the diffusion line thats piled up in mountains at discount stores, probs near the buttom
    +1. Depends on the Ferre line. Even within the mainline are different levels, including some (for a while) that were made by Attolini. I'd say, overall, to avoid Ferre unless you get it from the Ferre store, because most of the discounted stuff at other places is old, dead stock, crap. They've also switched makers so many times that who knows who made the suit you might get. Also, keep in mind that Ferre Studio, GFFEFFE, GFF, OAKS, Ferre 0001, Ferre White, Ferre Red, etc. haven't existed for nearly 10 years. The current brand has only 3 labels... Gianfranco Ferre (mainline), Ferre Milano (diffusion), and GF Ferre (younger/sportswear.)
     

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