The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. Made in California

    Made in California Senior member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    -Thom Browne
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Isaia
    - D'Avenza
    - Sartoria Castangia

    Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    --Lanvin
    -Jil Sander tailor made
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Canali Milano
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage


    Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Etro / Boglioli
    - Giorgio Armani (black label)

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Benjamin Sartorial
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey
    - Hackett
    - J Crew
    - Z-Zegna

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press
    - H&M


    I'm surprised to see J Crew get this high on your list after the review titled "My review of J Crew suits (they suck)" haha
     


  2. East Oakland

    East Oakland Senior member

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    I'm surprised to see J Crew get this high on your list after the review titled "My review of J Crew suits (they suck)" haha

    J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

    Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.
     


  3. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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    i am always interested in finding the triumvirate in any category.

    for RTW suits, i'd say

    brioni
    rlpl
    kiton
     


  4. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

    Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.


    I own a J. Crew suit and sports coat, both use Loro Piana cloth. Are they as well made as my Chester Barrie, Zegna Napoli Couture, Corneliani, etc... garments? No. But on sale they make an excellent beater suit.
     


  5. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

    Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.

    +1. This is a quality ranking, not a value ranking. If it were the latter, we'd need to add Target's Merona line in there because at $69 for a full suit on sale, how could you go wrong?
     


  6. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Senior member

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    I would like to see a BAD section.

    Zara

    Dior Homme

    Armani ( other than black label )

    D & G

    Gucci

    Prada

    And most of the designer brands
     


  7. Made in California

    Made in California Senior member

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    I would like to see a BAD section.

    Zara

    Dior Homme

    Armani ( other than black label )

    D & G

    Gucci

    And most of the designer brands


    Yeah, because these are suits that I am constantly seeing that look nice, but are of dubious quality and I'd like to see if for $500, am I getting my money's worth?

    Why do you guys want this thread to die?? [​IMG]
     


  8. bearsfan172

    bearsfan172 Senior member

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    Yeah where would we place a brand like Prada on this list?
     


  9. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    Yeah where would we place a brand like Prada on this list?

    this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised.

    many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list.

    i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.
     


  10. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised. many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list. i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.
    That is why I think you see Paul Smith, RL, Zegna, and Etro up there. I think with Prada you will find significantly less consistency. If you don't have an eye for the quality or can't identify the maker using tags, YMMV where as RL and PS tend to be much more consistent using the same makers over and over with similar standards.
     


  11. bearsfan172

    bearsfan172 Senior member

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    Yeah I've definately noticed that about Prada's suits, their consistancy is very inconsistant. (HA). What do you mean about identifying label tags to see who actually made it? Could you expand on that?

    And regardless of quality... I've found that the fit of most "designer" brands, tends to be quite superb. Particularly for a slimmer guy
     


  12. intent

    intent Senior member

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    What's with the Zegna hate, even at the Couture XXX level?
     


  13. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    Yeah I've definately noticed that about Prada's suits, their consistancy is very inconsistant. (HA). What do you mean about identifying label tags to see who actually made it? Could you expand on that? And regardless of quality... I've found that the fit of most "designer" brands, tends to be quite superb. Particularly for a slimmer guy
    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=24109
     


  14. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised.

    many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list.

    i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.


    +1 In addition to what's said, I wouldn't write the "designer brands" off. I've just reminded myself that some of the Prada suits and SC's have been made by Belvest. I cannot comment whether this is still the case. However, owing a few Belvest items, I'm very pleased with the construction and quality and I would be very surprised if a Prada branded Belvest would be that different the mainline Belvest.

    Clint
     


  15. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    What's with the Zegna hate, even at the Couture XXX level?

    I don't know why there isn't much love for Zegna (I'm sure that there are many reasons), but to my mind, they make a good SC/suit, especially if you can get them on discount and in one of their better fabrics.

    So, I, at least, will always have a soft spot for Zegna.

    Clint
     


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