Yeah they switched but I'm not sure the Japan-made new production will be inferior, we'll see. It's not like his current offerings pale compared to Isaia or Brioni and they are clearly above black fleece. -If HermÃ¨s is stillmade by Belvest we could put them in the same category. -Dior homme was pretty good, going from beyond anything on that list (couture embroidery) to at least "good". -Lanvin fabrics are often custom and IMHO, more interesting than those from other brands. -Jil Sander: I'm talking about the RTW "tailor made" line not MtM, not sure who makes it anymore. Mine looks good and is well made but it's a fine example of Teutonic design minimalism (no sleeve buttons, discrete stitching, etc). Hmm, I get the sense you are measuring quality by different criteria than have been used to construct much of this list. I'm not sure how much embroidery or proprietary fabrics can really be compared to the amount and quality of structural hand-stitiching.