The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. dfischer1

    dfischer1 Active Member

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    I'd be interested to see a TaT placement.

    2.5 stars. The full canvas gives it points, but the rough handiwork and polarizing fit keep it from going any higher.

    Any votes for Steven Aver?

    DF
     


  2. huynhc

    huynhc Member

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    where would john varvatos and john varvatos star fit?
     


  3. furo

    furo Senior member

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    FYI, in the book I mentioned, Corneliani is the company that uses factories in Egypt and rips the tags out in Milan. Thomas says that all Valentino menswear is produced outside of Italy, then sent to Italy, tags are replaced, and then sent out.

    Interesting. I wonder what percentage of suits Corneliani produces are actually made in Egypt, and what models.
     


  4. Robert Goodell

    Robert Goodell New Member

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    This is a fascinating Thread. By way of introduction, and in sincere humility as a newcomer, perhaps someone could advise which of the "better" lines (reference above rankings ) has models for taller men. I am 6'4", 220 lbs, and am best described as a 45 XL. In the last years it seems many lines have dropped those of us at the extremes.

    Thanks,

    RJG
     


  5. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Interesting. I wonder what percentage of suits Corneliani produces are actually made in Egypt, and what models.

    What I remember off the top of my head, and there is a video on youtube about this...is ALL the suits for Valentino are made in Egypt.
     


  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Isaia

    - D'Avenza

    Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Canali Milano
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    - Sartoria Castangia
    - Borrelli Luxury Vintage

    Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor
    - Etro / Boglioli
    - Giorgio Armani (black label)

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey
    - Hackett
    - Z-Zegna

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press
     


  7. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    How about Armani Collezioni, the Zegna production of it (1996-2008), and the now "made by armani corp" suits? I would put AC at *** since many people here like it due to its more conservative, western cut. I think that Armani black label's "Fatto A Mano" line should go to ****, as those are canvassed and well hand made. As for the entry level black label, I'll agree with ***.
     


  8. SirSuturesALot

    SirSuturesALot Senior member

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    ...

    Thank you for the fixes [​IMG]
     


  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How about Armani Collezioni, the Zegna production of it (1996-2008), and the now "made by armani corp" suits? I would put AC at *** since many people here like it due to its more conservative, western cut. I think that Armani black label's "Fatto A Mano" line should go to ****, as those are canvassed and well hand made. As for the entry level black label, I'll agree with ***.

    Shh, don't clutter it up. My favorite part of the thread is how it exists in a vacuum, with no qualification for time of manufacture and only the vaguest definition for each tier. I have a fully canvassed Botany 500 coat, so Botany 500 should go no lower than the third tier, right?
     


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    WTH is Botany 500? Sounds like a Nascar event... :roma:
     


  11. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    WTH is Botany 500? Sounds like a Nascar event... :roma:

    In its heyday, from what I can tell, it was a respectable U.S. maker of decent quality suits. The type of thing that would have populated most Main Street men's shops. My Botany 500 sportcoat is fully canvassed and rather nifty -- about Hickey Freeman quality. But these days, Botany exists as a licensed name only. The Daroff factory, where the suits were made, has long since closed. You can check out the current incarnation's "website" here.

    Botany 500 dressed a lot of gameshow hosts in the '80s, which probably did them no favors. PJC in Nova, however, once noted over at Andy's that Botany provided the suits for Rod Serling's Twilight Zone intros. And Wikipedia claims they also dressed Don Adams on Get Smart, which is pretty cool.

    At some point, my thrifting expeditions suggest, they developed an unfortunate love affair with fusing. I'm not sure when the rot set in, but this list isn't concerned with such things, anyway. One Botany is the same as the next.

    Botany 500, by Daroff!

    [​IMG]
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Interesting. Thanks
     


  13. The Deacon

    The Deacon Senior member

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    Poor
    -Tommy Hilfiger
     


  14. Sanddog

    Sanddog Well-Known Member

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    Shh, don't clutter it up. My favorite part of the thread is how it exists in a vacuum, with no qualification for time of manufacture and only the vaguest definition for each tier. I have a fully canvassed Botany 500 coat, so Botany 500 should go no lower than the third tier, right?

    With all due respect, Doc, instead of complaining about this thread, you *could* try to make a contribution to it.

    The search for this sort of information is what leads a lot of newbies (like me) to SF, and not all will have the patience or the desire to develop your level of expertise on this topic. Instead, they will search the archives for something like this (since nothing seems to get pinned anymore) and finding it they will end up relying to some degree on this list. There are a lot of us who would appreciate your input, or constructive commentary, rather than just bitching.

    My reading here has made me aware that a lot of the regulars are bored with questions like this, but rather than just stating that the list is completely bogus, pointing out what's wrong with it, or correcting it, would help a lot of people. A good list built from the collective, subjective opinion of the suit-savvy veterans on this site and pinned to the top would probably eliminate a whole lot of newbie-started threads, too.

    Just my $0.02. Apologies for the presumption. Please proceed.
     


  15. binge

    binge Senior member

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    In its heyday, from what I can tell, it was a respectable U.S. maker of decent quality suits....

    Also once widely available on Ceti Alpha V.
     


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