The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. Pezzaturra

    Pezzaturra Senior member

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    Where is "Adriano and Sons" stand?

    same level as caruso and isaia

    Really? I would like to hear more about some esoteric (but still existing) brands of equal or higher quality. It is the same situation as with shoe makers; the less they known the better for consumer...
     


  2. dpw

    dpw Senior member

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    Again, anyone Battistoni?

    Battistoni is a fav of mine...
     


  3. beerbudget

    beerbudget Well-Known Member

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    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli and Luxury Vintage line
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - D'Avenza

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Canali Milano
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
    -Sartorio Castangia

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - RLBL (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey
    - Hackett

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press


    Added Sartorio Castangia, borderline excellent IMHO, i find them to be superior to Isaia.
     


  4. Figor

    Figor Member

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  5. Pezzaturra

    Pezzaturra Senior member

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    Etro anyone?

    I would say satisfactory to good depending on the garment. Always too big ,so for non-vanity sizing go full size down.
     


  6. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Nervesa? Nogara? MA & Co?
     


  7. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Once again Giorgio Armani black label is ignored. Having suits canvassed, silk lined, hand made (with the label saying that) and having the largest and most extensive MTM program in the entire "designer" world doesn't matter.
     


  8. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

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    Once again Giorgio Armani black label is ignored. Having suits canvassed, silk lined, hand made (with the label saying that) and having the largest and most extensive MTM program in the entire "designer" world doesn't matter.
    I did not know that... I ignore Armani because I am too stocky for the cut..... but it surprises me that their MTM is more popular or extensive than Zegna. Very interesting.
     


  9. Siggy

    Siggy Senior member

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    Once again Giorgio Armani black label is ignored. Having suits canvassed, silk lined, hand made (with the label saying that)

    Puhleeese. Hand made as machine made garment.
     


  10. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Puhleeese. Hand made as machine made garment.
    When was the last time you owned a GA suit? Also do you understand that if every "hand made" suit was HAND MADE, they would fall apart within months. Machines, quality machines and someone that knows what they are doing do much stronger work than your HAND can. Is a tailors hand stronger than a machine, I think not. If you guys would just read Deluxe, by Dana Thomas, you would learn that you guys have fallen into a marketing trap. Half the brands you people jizz over are made in Egypt, and sent up to Italy where they rip the tags out. Interestingly GA was praised in that book and so was RL.
     


  11. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    I did not know that... I ignore Armani because I am too stocky for the cut..... but it surprises me that their MTM is more popular or extensive than Zegna. Very interesting.
    You can have any fabric you want. You can even have white gold buttons if you want. It is like bespoke but with Armani's name on it....literally its autographed under the lapel by him. And it is not made by Vestimenta or Hilton anymore. It was Zegna in the 2000s (Collezioni is still Zegna, and they actually own 50% of it). Now the black label is Loro Piana fabric made by GA's people in Milan. They even give you the factory address, which is next to his own apartment.
     


  12. daniele6

    daniele6 Senior member

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    Nervesa? Nogara? MA & Co?

    Nervesa went out of business 3 years ago.
    MaCo is the company that produces RLBL, Caruso, Adriano & Sons suits.
     


  13. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    You can have any fabric you want. You can even have white gold buttons if you want. It is like bespoke but with Armani's name on it....literally its autographed under the lapel by him. And it is not made by Vestimenta or Hilton anymore. It was Zegna in the 2000s (Collezioni is still Zegna, and they actually own 50% of it). Now the black label is Loro Piana fabric made by GA's people in Milan. They even give you the factory address, which is next to his own apartment.

    Wow, how many do you have? You sound really knowledgeable about this process and must have travelled a lot to visit his ateliers.
     


  14. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    same level as caruso and isaia

    Actually this depends.
    Most AS stuff is higher than standard Caruso.
    I would put it higher than both.

    Currently, there are two makers for AS, Caruso and Partenopea.
     


  15. intent

    intent Senior member

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    I can't imagine this being cheaper than Savile Row or other bespoke makers, especially with the Armani branding.
     


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