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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

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  1. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    Placed TB in its proper category.
    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli and Luxury Vintage line
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - D'Avenza

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Canali Milano
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - RLBL (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey

    Mediocre
    [*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press

    Horrific
    - Thom Browne
     
  2. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

    Messages:
    25,818
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    Dude, Thom Browne is better quality than black fleece and should, logically, be equal to Oxxford anyway so it goes at the top....

    I mean Kiton looks absolutely horrid and it's still well-made.

    BTW you can only lower it from one category so your post is invalid (not to mention disingenuous if you've seen how well TB is made).
     
  3. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    I am just trying to prove you correct re: post #201.

    And break the threak "rules" which are silly. If the thread has merit, it will stick around. If not, artificially limiting everyone to contributing one tidbit of information per day is retarded. There is some useful information in here for people who don't have personal experience with a range of labels.
     
  4. DoTheGrownup

    DoTheGrownup Senior member

    Messages:
    228
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2007
    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli and Luxury Vintage line
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - D'Avenza

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Canali Milano
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - RLBL (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press

    Since I only actually have experience with a few of these, I'll add Belvest.
     
  5. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    What about La Vera Sartoria Napoletana and Orazio Luciano?
     
  6. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,790
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Sartoria Castangia belongs in the top tier.
     
  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,467
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    This is a piece of nonsense. Everyone's opinion will be manipulated by their direct experience, fit/style/features especially as well as other subjective concerns and so no genuine comparator will emerge.

    Pass I would say.
     
  8. Cognacad

    Cognacad Senior member

    Messages:
    524
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    People failed to listen so the list didn't work well. Lists that this happen all the time in forums ONE person ONE change per day and after many posts a very good list is created with a general trend of where each brand/thing/song/fruit should sit. Of course its all opinions, but if its a good brand it should have more good opinions than bad opinions and slowly move towards the top.
     
  9. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

    Messages:
    22,225
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2006
    Location:
    Irvine
    i rank alfani higher than armani
     
  10. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

    Messages:
    6,217
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    So... I don't have the cash to find out on my own... where does Tom Ford belong on this list?
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    How about Richard James?
     
  12. cmorebusiness

    cmorebusiness Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    54
    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2009
    This is a piece of nonsense. Everyone's opinion will be manipulated by their direct experience, fit/style/features especially as well as other subjective concerns and so no genuine comparator will emerge.

    Pass I would say.

    I cannot knock your statements, but how would you suggest a hierarchy be constructed???
     
  13. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,875
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    Again, anyone Battistoni?
     
  14. stylewithease

    stylewithease Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2009
    Any Asians want to chime in on where G2000 and the G2000 black label fit in?
     
  15. exchange239

    exchange239 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    85
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2009
    Location:
    Northeast
    Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
    - Kiton
    - Oxxford
    - Brioni
    - Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
    - Luigi Borrelli and Luxury Vintage line
    - RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
    - Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
    - St Andrew
    - D'Avenza

    Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
    - Belvest
    - Corneliani Linea Sartoria
    - Canali Milano
    - Sartoria Partenopea
    - Sartoria Attolini Napoli
    - Isaia
    - (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma
    - Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
    - Ravazzolo
    - Zegna Couture
    - Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

    Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
    - Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
    - Hickey Freeman Mainline
    - Corneliani
    - Canali
    - K by Canali
    - Ermenegildo Zegna
    - Samuelsohn
    - Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - RLBL (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
    - Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
    - Cantarelli Tailor

    Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
    - Cantarelli
    - Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
    - Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
    - Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
    - H. Freemann
    - Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
    - hickey
    - Hackett

    Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
    - Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)
    - Hugo Boss
    - Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
    - Joseph Abboud
    - J. Press
     
  16. zenith

    zenith Active Member

    Messages:
    29
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Where do the following belong on the lower end of the scale?

    Jack Victor
    HSM
    Benjamin
     
  17. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    What about Paolo Gucci?
     
  18. ChicagoRon

    ChicagoRon Senior member

    Messages:
    6,217
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2007
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Where do the following belong on the lower end of the scale? Jack Victor HSM Benjamin
    My experience with Jack Victor has been in trousers only, but I've been happy with the value for money. I would place them in Satisfactory, although I believe they are fused jackets, so may be disqualified. The fabric and stitching belongs with the satisfactory group.
     
  19. Pezzaturra

    Pezzaturra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,616
    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2009
    Location:
    United States of Albania
    Where is "Adriano and Sons" stand?
     
  20. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

    Messages:
    22,225
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2006
    Location:
    Irvine
    Where is "Adriano and Sons" stand?

    same level as caruso and isaia
     

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