The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

[clee1982]

Thom Sweeney has to RTW one is made in China (Mayfair) and one is made in Italy by scuderi(Blue label) although the lapel button appears to be hand made

Thanks!

 

[CorozoButton]

How much is SuSu MTM?

Last year, you could get a 2 piece in a VBC 110 for £469, which is absurdly low. Obviously, fabric affects price a lot, but if I recall correctly, there were some pretty high end fabrics, like the Holland & Sherry Royal Mile 140s for around £850 for a 2 piece.

 

[clee1982]

400 something is half canvassed I assume? How much does the Jort stuff (so full canvassed) go in Europe?

 

[CorozoButton]

400 something is half canvassed I assume? How much does the Jort stuff (so full canvassed) go in Europe?

Nope, all SuSu MTM is full canvas. I believe the price on those particular VBC 110s may have gone up slightly now, possibly £499. It was only offered in 6 fabrics, a navy plain/herringbone/faint pin stripe, and the same in charcoal. I believe SuSu kept the cost so low by buying such a large amount of those fabrics specifically for this deal.

Jort suits are generally £699 in the UK.

SuSu offer unlimited free alterations for the 6 months after the MTM is delivered, which is also great. Obviously if you factor in alterations on RTW, you're looking at £750 or so for a Jort off the rack.

If the spreadsheet accounts for price as well, I think SuSu MTM should be where it is, or perhaps even a fair bit higher. However, my understanding is the spreadsheet is only referencing actual quality, regardless of value/price, which is why I was curious if people who better understand quality in regards to construction might be able to chime in on how it tops Zegna mainline?

 

[clee1982]

Doubt it does then, though SuSu seems to have odd pricing then, have RTW full canvassed priced higher than MTM full canvassed...

 

[clee1982]

I have one jort, if the MTM is same level, then definitely not Zegna mainline

 

[CorozoButton]

Doubt it does then, though SuSu seems to have odd pricing then, have RTW full canvassed priced higher than MTM full canvassed...

Well everything is dependent on fabric. The Jort/La Spalla tend to have fairly expensive fabrics with high super numbers, cashmere blends etc. If you were to pick a Super 150 for a MTM, it would likely be priced higher than the RTW full canvas offering.

 

[CorozoButton]

I have one jort, if the MTM is same level, then definitely not Zegna mainline

The Jort & La Spalla offerings appear separately in the spreadsheet, a fair bit lower down. My understanding is that it's a different factory for MTM & the higher end of their RTW. I believe they now contract through Munro for MTM.

 

[John Wick]

Maybe brand perception is distorting my opinion but Zegna easily goes for about $3k (at least when I was dumb enough to shop there around 2012) while I have seen Suit Supply's MTM go as high up as $1,500 mainly cus my friend needed so much alteration and wanted a particular color. I don't have a beef in either of the brands but I am just saying I am surprised to see SuSu MTM up that high...even on par with Isaia? Seems high but I never bought SuSu MTM so I am not qualified to speak to their quality.

 

[Anthonio]

SuitSupply actually makes very good suits because?
Rigorous Quality Control, and extensive training or additional reasons.

 

[beargonefishing]

SuitSupply makes actually very good suits because?
possible reason
#1. A low paid Isaia worker sold out to China and trained them with rigorous quality control.
#2. A smart, low paid worker sold out to China and trained them with rigorous quality control.
#3. Isaia, or people in the accounts receivables of the Italian suit market know that the suit market is drastically diminishing year-by-year, thus, sold the last "big bucks" rights-of-manufacturing" to a Chinese manufacturer.
#4. Fill in the blank.

This is, literally, one of the plot lines in Gomorrah.

 

[Anthonio]

The very first suit I bought was a new Luciano Soprani DB peaked lapel 100% wool, bright navy, around year 2000, very very nice. Knowing nothing about the hierarchy of quality until after reading and re-reading styleforum, I feel there would be no way to understand the differences without this forum.

 

[DrewMill]

I'm surprised Spier & Mackay isn't on the spreadsheet or brands to be added. Where would you all put them on this list?

 

[Thomas Huang]

I cannot understand why the list puts brooks brothers 1818 and suitsupply so high and have such a low ranking for Caruso and Canali that they are put in the same league. Surely the two Italian brands deserve higher rankings from my personal experience with them, especially Caruso. It seems that the suit hierarchy is not updated for current changes in branding but is based off of eBay purchases as there have been no Caruso Sartoria Parma (at least in their stores) for a few years now. I don’t know about how they rank compared to stile Latino and such but they definitely seem as good to me as your regular RLPL suits and Gieves and Hawkes.

 

[Thomas Huang]

I cannot understand why the list puts brooks brothers 1818 and suitsupply so high and have such a low ranking for Caruso and Canali that they are put in the same league. Surely the two Italian brands deserve higher rankings from my personal experience with them, especially Caruso. It seems that the suit hierarchy is not updated for current changes in branding but is based off of eBay purchases as there have been no Caruso Sartoria Parma (at least in their stores) for a few years now. I don’t know about how they rank compared to stile Latino and such but they definitely seem as good to me as your regular RLPL suits and Gieves and Hawkes.

The new Brooks Brother 1818 is thoroughly unimpressive and my every experience with them just feels like a well made work suit; definitely nothing special to write home about and would never consider purchasing instead of dunhill, canali, corneliani, or many of the other brands placed in the same league.