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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Cognacad, Sep 20, 2009.

  1. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    that's what I mean by LP is all over the place, fabric is always nice, if you do MTM, I "think" you will definitely get the higher finish level, otherwise it's all over the place, none are "bad", just not $4k good
     

  2. dreamspace

    dreamspace Distinguished Member

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    The vast majority of the LP brand is focused towards relaxed/leisure/casual wear, outerwear, and such, in luxurious fabrics. Most of what they're selling is cashmere or cashmere-blends. Their MTM suiting department is probably there as an afterthought, just to make their stores a one-stop shop for certain frequent clients.

    Their soft and sporty coats / suits are in more exciting fabrics, and very different than their MTM business suits. The business suits are pretty traditional, but have nice enough details and good base fabrics.

    You buy LP for the fabrics, style, and exclusivity - but mostly fabrics. I'll give them that, some of their stuff is out of this world as far as touch/feel goes. And I guess that when you're shopping $7k Vicuna sweaters, price isn't really any issue.

    So my conclusion is: Their casual sport coats and suits are probably overpriced, as far as construction goes - but not really meant for regular people. It's like Stefano Ricci, Bijan, and other 0.01% brands...but way less gaudy.
     

  3. Occy

    Occy Member

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    Hey guys, sorry I haven't been updating the list.

    I've had a few people request access to the site.

    Unfortunately, if you do so with your work email, most work email servers don't allow the access.
    So you'll need to use your personal email.
     

  4. daddyblitz

    daddyblitz Senior Member

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    I think the list is missing knot standard.

    We should also do one of these for shirts.
     

  5. Stilig

    Stilig Well-Known Member

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    Today I received my first MTM suit from Saint Gregory. I was rather skeptical when I first heard of the brand, but I must say I'm extremely happy with the end result. The fit is exceptional for a first order without any fittings, and I'm a rather difficult drop 11 with sloping shoulders. I actually had less issues than I have had with Orazio Luciano, although that was also very good. It's not actually tight in the waist of the jacket, that's just me being a shitty model. All I need is a slight adjustment to the trouser waist.



    As for the actual quality of the garment I would absolutely rate it in the #5 rank. It's completely handmade, save for the side seams which are done by machine. The canvas and lapel are done by hand and all pick stitching as well. And neatly done at that. The construction is light but still very clean. Even though I don't have any true bespoke garments, this feels like a step above even the most high-end MTM I've tried. Although I might just have been lucky with the fit this time.

    To compare I have quite good knowledge of Orazio Luciano, Mauro Blasi, Sartoria Partenopea, pieces made in the same workshop as Tom Ford, and Raffaele Caruso. Saint Gregory is definitely up there with Orazio Luciano and Mauro Blasi, and definitely better than the "Tom Ford" stuff.

    Apparently the team is made up of tailors that used to run Borrelli's workshop before that brand turned south, and some tailors from Dalcuore and Rubinacci.

    Will make sure to post some pictures once I get it back from the alterations.

    TLDR: I can definitely recommend Saint Gregory as an option to the usual suspects of high-end Neapolitan MTM.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2018

  6. knoodie

    knoodie Active Member

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    Looks amazing; would love to see pictures post-alterations.

    Few questions:

    - How many fittings did you end up having? Over what time frame?
    - What was the price?
     

  7. DrewMill

    DrewMill Active Member

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    One brand I haven't seen anywhere on the spreadsheet is Cordings. I'm curious if anyone has an opinion on their suits in general, and where they might fall on the hierarchy. Thanks!
     

  8. Quesjac

    Quesjac Senior Member

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    Looking at the website, the copywriting is unbearable (timeless gentleman effortless elegance inherited from our forefathers etc) but the products look ok at the price --- nothing special. Half canvas, no name fabrics. Cuts are a bit dated. I'd personally pay the extra for Ede and Ravenscroft if you want classic British RTW.
     

  9. Stilig

    Stilig Well-Known Member

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    Actually no fittings at all. They based it on measurements I provided according to their very detailed measurement guide. I then had a bit of back and forth with their team with questions regarding measurements they were a bit unsure of, since my proportions are not really that common. I was skeptical, but I didn't really risk losing anything if it didn't end up well. Turns out it worked out just as well as when I was measured by one of the most recognized men in the industry. If it weren't for my odd proportions (Drop 11-12 with sloping, somewhat forward shoulders and a very strong chest) I would have called it luck, but they were basically spot on.

    My overall experience is that they were very thorough and really keen on making every detail perfect, which in my experience isn't that common in Naples.

    The price ended up around € 2300, which I think is exceptional considering the end result.
     

  10. gfmozart

    gfmozart Distinguished Member

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    Any update on MP by Massimo Piombo? Is it still Kiton linked
     

  11. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    who makes Thom Sweeney RTW? Caruso is the usual suspect I suppose
     

  12. jazerad

    jazerad Well-Known Member

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    Thom Sweeney has to RTW one is made in China (Mayfair) and one is made in Italy by scuderi(Blue label) although the lapel button appears to be hand made
     

  13. John Wick

    John Wick Senior Member

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    Quick observations:
    1. Can't believe Suit Supply MTM is so high up, even higher than i.e. Zegna mainline?
    2. Where's SF's newest favorite Spier & MacKay? Where would they land?
     

  14. buddyfuzz

    buddyfuzz Well-Known Member

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    I would love to hear more on this from those in the know. I think SuitSupply MTM is great, and have a couple of bits, but giving it a rating of 4 and above Zegna Mainline as mentioned? I'd love that to be true considering the prices (especially here in Europe) are fantastic.
     

  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    How much is SuSu MTM?
     

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