The StyleForum Runway & High Fashion Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by KingJulien, Mar 21, 2012.

  1. Urthwhyte

    Urthwhyte Senior member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Likes Received:
    1,557
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2011
    Well, kimono is timeless, or at least highly resistant to change, and black and drapey is 30 years old in the Western fashion world (sipang or Fuuma will probably prove me wrong on that count). Relative to most of the things in the current #heritagemenswearamericanavintagerepro trend it's actually pretty new.
     


  2. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    

    I haven't looked at a lot of high-fashion stuff from the ’90s (as opposed to the mass market suiting that seems to look bad no matter what time period you're talking about), but Helmut Lang's tailored stuff still looks great to me.
     


  3. snake

    snake Senior member

    Messages:
    5,267
    Likes Received:
    2,352
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2008
    

    I swear nobody that shops at blackbird must live in seattle, unless they're all hanging out under a bridge or at the W's lobby or something.. :bored:
     


  4. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    To me, the (perceived) timelessness has more to do with the voluminous shapes than anything, the geometry of it all, the unstructuredness of the silhouettes. The inspirations can be multiple, traditional (Japanese or other) garments, August Sander photographs... but I'm not sure that's even relevant here. I think the timeless quality comes less from some sort of historical lineage than from a lack of identifiable features that would betray the garment's age (here I contradict myself but let's keep going...). If you look at some Prada campaigns (I think) from the early 90s, or some editorials from the same time or even earlier, there's that same kind of silhouette that wouldn't look out of place today.

    Of course that is all bullshit, in the two minutes it took me to write those four lines, I found at least that many ways to poke holes in my argument. What I might perceive as timeless, to most people just looks like hammer pants and too big coats from decades past. And that's the catch, to people that don't care (about fashion, design etc), timless will never exist because "now" is the only reference. Dieter Rams' Braun products can be the quintessence of timeless design to the informed amateur but most people from your parents/grandparents generation would actually tell you quite easily from which decade those timeless objects originate and how very characteristic of that time they appear. Did I just state the super obvious ?

    But sure, timeless can exist, in the bubble it can.

    There's also the case of labels that don't seem to age, which I believe is not exactly the same thing as above. Labels like Yohji or CdG (although maybe to a lesser extent lately) that seems to have their own timeline that sometimes look more like a circle, that grow outwards from unchanged core to periphery like an ink blot, whose "designs could have sprung forth in any given order" as Urthwhyte put it.


    Old Raf has none of that but he has the streetwear + cultural references advantage (where '80s + '90s are still the defining moments), that helps keep it relevant.




    [​IMG]





    Not sure what was my point anymore, I'll be here if anyone needs me.
     


  5. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,670
    Likes Received:
    6,086
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2008
    Location:
    Brooklyn
    

    Steve Madden knocked them off as well so they are everywhere.
     


  6. Urthwhyte

    Urthwhyte Senior member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Likes Received:
    1,557
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2011
    I hadn't seen anyone in Seattle wearing anything that they sell at Blackbird until I went to Totokaelo. I've only been there three or four times now, but every time I visit it's also empty. Much prefer the SAs at Barneys, and the buys are pretty much the same now (0).
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2012


  7. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

    Messages:
    8,628
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2008
    Someone must be buying the high end stuff from Nordstrom's women's buys, I just need to find and wifey her

    Timeless exists in ends of a pendulum, hype then backlash to the hype then backlash to the backlash, etc. (there was an intricate diagram on SuFu depicting this some time ago)
     


  8. Urthwhyte

    Urthwhyte Senior member

    Messages:
    1,448
    Likes Received:
    1,557
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2011
    I just assumed it was the SAs or people from out of town who visited Nordstrom. I just wish they would stock 44s for menswear [​IMG]

    Quote:
    [​IMG]
    This?
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2012


  9. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Likes Received:
    3,148
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    A document of the beginning of the end, though nobody seemed to know it yet...

    The Invisible Designer: Helmut Lang
    From The New Yorker
    September 18, 2000
    by John Seabrook

     


  10. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    That's a great read
     


  11. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009

    ! ! !




    The store

    [​IMG]



    lulz




    I need to post some of the campaign stuff



    +1



    I wonder how Ward's input factors into it all.



    Yes







    Enlightening
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2012


  12. KingJulien

    KingJulien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,358
    Likes Received:
    4,431
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    Question: when I think of the casual/formal mix for men I think of margiela and branquinho. Were both of those way after Helmut Lang?
     


  13. sipang

    sipang Senior member

    Messages:
    6,987
    Likes Received:
    9,869
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Yeah, Margiela menswear is late 90s and Branquinho is 2003 I think.
     


  14. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

    Messages:
    2,343
    Likes Received:
    3,851
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008


  15. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

    Messages:
    9,463
    Likes Received:
    3,719
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
    

    these are different things to me.

    Lang seems to have pioneered casual clothing with formal details. at least from what that editorial was saying. Margiela makes formal clothing casual - e.g. the suits, distressed footwear etc. From what I see of branquinho it's kinda ironic formal.

    Except obviously you can't just break down their design into simple themes like that.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by