+ The Streetwear Suits and Blazers Thread +

[Parker]

good place to post!

It kinda depends how stiff/heavy the canvas is inside the lapels -- or if there is any interlining at all. If the the jacket has a heavier canvas, it might look bad if you added a higher button -- and tried to button it. Canvas (or whatever interlining is used) is cut so that the lapel roll stays in place. It has "memory" so it wants to roll to the same spot, usually to the middle button on a 3 button jacket or the top button on a 2. Additionally, the jacket collar is typically cut to match the angle/roll of the lapel.

So, if you buttoned the top button on a "3-roll-2" you basically force the lapel to roll up higher against its will, which can create weird pulls or bowing out of the lapels or make the collar gap. If the canvas and/or cloth is super light or there's none at all, like on a Barena or Boglioli K-jacket, it will be a easier to force close since there is no canvas structure trying to stay in place. Dry cleaners sometimes mistakenly press the lapels up to the top button. You can always try to press the lapels higher and see how it looks. Also, if you want to wear your tweed jacket like outerwear... pop the collar! and add a button to go in the lapel hole, that will keep out the chill.


a "3-roll-2" jacket buttoned the way up, courtesy of Yoox:

a true 3 button. lapels already rolled/pressed to the top button.




caveat: this mostly applies to 'classic' type jackets. also, the above may not be technically or, for that matter, grammatically correct.

edited for clarity.

 

[gettoasty]

Thanks for dropping some knowledge. Now I am less hesitant about ordering jackets off Yoox, or at least know how to better spot a 3-roll-2

 

[Superb0bo]

Thanks Parker!

I think i´ll try, or at least hear what "my" tailor says about it. The jacket is very classical, so I am sure it applies. As I intend to wear it more as outerwear, im no too worried about the forced lapels (but I agree it looks better in the second image).

 

[lineate]



uncertain of where to post, so..

I have a 2 button sports jacket in Harris tweed. Given the weight of the fabric, i´ve mostly worn it as outerwear, which makes the 2 button situation weird - i would like to cover up more when its cold. Would it be possible/adviceable to turn it into a 3 button jacket, sort of a 3-2 roll thing? So i could button the added top button and "pop the collar" when cold? Or is it just stupid?

I tried to do exactly this with a heavy corduroy jacket once. I had, I think, three different tailors tell me it wouldn't work and eventually backed down.

Parker's suggestion of the lapel hole button sounds really great though.

 

[DeadBoy]

Thanks Parker!

I think i´ll try, or at least hear what "my" tailor says about it. The jacket is very classical, so I am sure it applies. As I intend to wear it more as outerwear, im no too worried about the forced lapels (but I agree it looks better in the second image).

If you're mostly wearing it as outerwear, like popping your collar and want to keep warm, why not open up the top button hole in the lapel and add a button or throat latch to the underside of the other one, so you can close it all the way up?

 

[Superb0bo]

^^ I though about that as well, but if I keept it as a 2 button, there will be alot of "unbottoned" space in between the top button and the throat latch.

 

[XGHXXN]

Spring Summer is coming up in this hemisphere so the hunt for a light and decent blazer is def on.

 

[eljimberino]

@XGHXXN

I'm in the same boat. Hopsack or linen seems to be best material for summer.

 

[DeadBoy]

^^ I though about that as well, but if I keept it as a 2 button, there will be alot of "unbottoned" space in between the top button and the throat latch.

True, though I've seen it done well. I guess it depends on the fit of the blazer.

 

[lineate]

^^ I though about that as well, but if I keept it as a 2 button, there will be alot of "unbottoned" space in between the top button and the throat latch.

You're right - and it can look weird.

I have a 2 button overcoat that has a top lapel button, but I've only ever used it on an obscenely cold day where I forgot a scarf.

Please ignore that fact that this is an ugly jacket, but the first and second pics show what a jacket that uses the top lapel button looks like done all the way up: http://oliverspencer.co.uk/lounge-jacket-navy-oskmp16

 

[XGHXXN]

@XGHXXN

I'm in the same boat. Hopsack or linen seems to be best material for summer.

the nanamica harbor jacket looks good but a bit heavy so I guess it's back to hunting the classic EG Bedford in navy twill

 

[Newberry]

Sorry I'm new to blazers and know very little about them. My question is, would the waist feel the same on a 36S and a 36R? Or is the only difference the sleeve length and bottom length? Thanks.

 

[Master-Classter]

technically, the chance from R to S should only be about the length, but I would think that there's some 'scaling' so even if the waist is the same measurement, it's going to sit higher or lower on the body. That's my hunch

 

[oulipien]

This thread seems to be pretty dead but maybe someone knows—I'm looking at some Devoa suits; does anyone know if they're fused or canvased or what? Fascinate refers to an "interlining" but I don't know what the significance of that is.

 

[happyriverz]

This thread seems to be pretty dead but maybe someone knows—I'm looking at some Devoa suits; does anyone know if they're fused or canvased or what? Fascinate refers to an "interlining" but I don't know what the significance of that is.

Interlining can refer both to canvas and fusing, so that alone doesn't tell you whether it's fused or canvassed.