The state of white tie

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marcodalondra, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Tom Ford looked great. As one would expect.
     


  2. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    I don't like the ivory tie/waistcoat that Tom Ford is wearing, but otherwise it is very solid
     


  3. Persephone

    Persephone Active Member

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    Van Veen. if the stated dress code was indeed white tie then the number of attendees who were properly attired -- both women and men -- can probably be counted on one, at most two, hand(s) -- and that would include the ladies. Looking at these pictures, one truly wonders if adults have any sense of how to dress themselves anymore. The conventions of formal evening dress make it quite simple to get it right, yet these people look like they are wearing fancy dress. Once again, these outfits cannot be caused by a lack of money, i.e., they surely were not trying to patch something suitable together from their own meagre wardrobe and charity shops, which leads me to believe that the cuplrit is a lack of class and good taste.

    In my opinion, only Tom Ford and Benedict Cumberbatch pass muster. Whilst I don't very much care for Mr Ford's ivory waistcoat nor for Benedict's black shirt studs, I am willing to overlook that especially since Mr Ford has white dress gloves. However, slippers and cowboy boots worn with full evening dress? No, that is a direct ticket to sartorial purgatory, whilst the other offenders shall go straight to hell as there is no redemption for them.

    P.S. Johnny Depp, whom I adore as an actor, needs to stop imitating his Tim Burton film characters.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014


  4. Persephone

    Persephone Active Member

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    I agree with you, but after clicking on the link and looking at a wider selection of attendees' "clothing" choices, I am willing to forgive him. I shall be surprised at nothing after viewing some of these atrocities.
     


  5. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    I believe the dress code was "white tie and decorations," which explains the preponderance of chains and baubles, since most men attending don't have legitimate decorations to wear. $25,000 a plate.

    I'd just like to take a moment to give kudos to Sarah Silverman. She cleans up real nice.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014


  6. brokencycle

    brokencycle Senior member

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    I'm surprised this one ended up as a total failure. Not perfect, but not at the scale of these other bombs.
     


  7. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    I wouldn't say it's a total failurel. His waistcoat is too long, and he's incorrectly wearing his sash under it as opposed to over it, but otherwise it's fine. He's even one of the few people to be wearing actual decorations. Plus points for that!
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2014


  8. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Is that Bloomberg in the back? Whoever it is, his white tie seems pretty spot on. Quite a few non-celebs did dress correctly, but of course it's the celebrity failures that get the most notice. Sadly.
     


  9. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    Maybe total failure is a little harsh, but it's a pretty bad fit when you can see the waistcoat strap that obviously.
     


  10. Suit of Nettles

    Suit of Nettles Senior member

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    Not to mention when there's three inches of waistcoat visible beneath the jacket. I think the reason why the prior poster reacted so strongly is that unlike many of the totally clueless failures, this guy should have done better; he's close enough that not going all the way seems egregiously sloppy.

    I do have a peculiar line of inquiry I wanted to throw out to the thread...

    One of the oddities of white (and black) tie is the 'Scottish sidle'. For a non-Scot, you need a suit with tails which serves no other purpose, and typically represents a pretty major investment; for anyone who wears a skirt, there's an interesting loophole, in that the Regulation Doublet, which is basically a Prince Charlie coatee with Argyll (whacko-gauntlet) cuffs and some additional flaps about the waist, is technically correct for both white and black tie.

    [​IMG]

    http://www.kinlochanderson.com/regulation-doublet-and-vest-in-black-barathea-special-order
    (The RD is not to be confused with other Scots doublets, which typically feature the egregious jabot, but are technically to code for white tie no matter how awful they look and feel.)

    Regardless of whether or not one likes this look, this means that with nothing more than a marcella vest and tie (provided the footwear, hose, and sporran are to equally code) a Scot can crash a white tie event: no wonder we have a miserly reputation...

    This being said, while I I dearly love my tartan, I really dislike the reg. doublet and PC jacket. I'm sure I'd be crucified elsewhere for saying it (e.g. on xmarksthescot), but even when the buttons are solid silver and the sporran is a work of bestiary art, they look like pointlessly tacky tailcoats; the lack of a breast pocket also removes the ability to use even a simple white linen PS as an accent to the chest, and the lack of a buttonhole limits its options further. You're wearing a jacket with epaulettes and gauntlets, a tartan skirt, and a sealskin jockstrap in a room full of people in the sleekest, most formal kind of dress we have (for all practical purposes) and you *still* feel the need for silver buttons and tassels everywhere? I know to a certain extent this is part and parcel -- if you're going to stand out, what's a little more flash? -- and to another, it's related to the para-military origins of the doublet and PC, but these jackets absolutely fail, to my mind, the single major criterion for white and black tie: refinement, or to put it another way, uniform minimalism. As a functional example, try sitting down to dinner in a PC jacket: you'll have eight to twelve angular silver buttons jamming into your coccyx the whole time, no matter how comfortable you are below the waist. (And for those who haven't tried, it is damnably comfy.)

    To that end, I am seriously considering having a reg.doublet made (by a non-Scots tailor) which is stylistically closer to a shortened midnight tailcoat with braided epaulettes: grosgain lapels and buttons, breast pocket, buttonhole and stem holder, two-button tail, etc., and getting my hands on a very lean black sporran. I could also, I suppose, have an RD/PC jacket retrofitted with less ostentatious buttons (and fewer of them in the back) and have the tailor carve in a buttonhole, but I can't see how even a textile magician could add a breast pocket to an existing jacket.

    Irrespective of whether or not this refinement is kosher from a Scots perspective -- and I have good reason to believe it is, based on common-use and regimental precedents -- I'd be more interested to know what people on SF think. Does the above look tacky to your eye, and would what I've suggested represent a noticeable and worthwhile improvement? Within the rules of white tie (and secondarily black) at its broadest, is this fair or foul play?
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014


  11. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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    That's him...
     


  12. Parterre

    Parterre Well-Known Member

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    It would appear so:

    [​IMG]

    I'm sure he has a well-fitted rig after 12 Al Smith Dinners.
     


  13. steven1298

    steven1298 Well-Known Member

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    Oh my God this man is an absolute idiot!


    And he is supposed to know about formalwear!!!
     


  14. A R Harrison

    A R Harrison Active Member

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    'Full Dress Tails Tuxedo'

    Where does he come up with this stuff?
     


  15. steven1298

    steven1298 Well-Known Member

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    The
    The worst thing was his videos on the shirt. And did you see his outfit! Dress pants with a tux jacket and an unbuttoned dress shirt!
     


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