The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[NakedYoga]

@iurvox That is... surprising, to say the least, that your tailor either didn't ask you about the button configuration or just put two on your jacket by default. The thing is, though, I doubt even one person (other than you) noticed. I would wager that if you asked ten people what "makes" a tuxedo, nine would say something like "a black suit and a bowtie." The vast majority of people don't know or care about the "rules" associated with them (one button, no vents, stripe on the pants, etc.). Hell, half the people at black tie events now wear a necktie instead of a bowtie anyway.

I love the midnight blue/shawl look, but a black tux is slightly more "standard" in the sense its more likely that a wedding party that requires a black tux as opposed to a midnight blue tux. If you know that you're weddings don't care either way, i say go for the midnight blue and get something relatively unique.

Agreed, but make damn sure that it's okay if you're in a wedding party. The last thing you want is a Bridezilla or the groom's stressed-out mother throwing a tantrum because you "tried to upstage" the groom/bride/wedding party/priest/shaman/in-laws/whatever.

Black covers everything. Make that your first.

This. There's a reason the usual advice is, well, the usual when people ask about staples and the first building blocks to a classic men's wardrobe. If asking about business suits, you will be advised to get charcoal and solid navy, at a minimum, before branching out to more interesting stripes, windowpanes, etc. The same goes with this first tuxedo. You can't go wrong with black, and it will always be appropriate, regardless of how conservative the venue or event is.

 

[Roycru]

Just when you thought you had seen (almost) everything, this appears on eBay.

Yes, it's a white pique shirt with a button down collar, French cuffs, and what looks like variable size pleats (and it's my size).

NWOT Brooks Black Fleece White Pique Formal Button Down BB1 15.5-33 MSRP $225 | eBay

Pleat front. 7 French cuffs. Mother of pearl buttons. Two pairs of pants will also fit. So mix and match.

www.ebay.com

 

[Concordia]

I hope that was MTM. Better with a shawl, in either case.

 

[upr_crust]

Just when you thought you had seen (almost) everything, this appears on eBay.

View attachment 1226133

Yes, it's a white pique shirt with a button down collar, French cuffs, and what looks like variable size pleats (and it's my size).

NWOT Brooks Black Fleece White Pique Formal Button Down BB1 15.5-33 MSRP $225 | eBay

Pleat front. 7 French cuffs. Mother of pearl buttons. Two pairs of pants will also fit. So mix and match.

www.ebay.com

The Black Fleece logo seems to be the label in the shirt, and the influence of Thom Browne could explain the multiple oddities about the garment.

 

[DevilsOwn]

I'm currently getting a 6 close on 2 DB 4 and a half inch peak lapel dinner suit made. Very stark black wool that's hard to make appear pale with satin on the jetted pockets, trouser galons and gauntlet cuffs (and of course the lapels). It will be ventless, fairly low gorge with satin covered buttons and with it I intend to wear a white pique pocket square, a thin swiss pleat turndown shirt with antique dark MOP, seed pearl and white gold cufflinks and studs, patent leather oxfords (though these are much on the duller side of patent leather), a butterfly bowtie, and a carnation boutonniere. I will send a picture when it's finished for you all.

 

[nosch455]

He recently started making cummerbunds. I have had one made for me...well remade to be exact. My grandma made one for me before she passed that was falling apart and I had David refurbish and remake it for me

(I apologize for digging up a post from 3 months ago) How does his sizing for cummerbunds work? Looks like he has two options: brass clip adjustable and one with no hardware. Is the non-adjustable a tie-back?

 

[Concordia]

(I apologize for digging up a post from 3 months ago) How does his sizing for cummerbunds work? Looks like he has two options: brass clip adjustable and one with no hardware. Is the non-adjustable a tie-back?

Silk Cummerbund

Silk Cummerbund

www.samhober.com

 

[The Chai]

(I apologize for digging up a post from 3 months ago) How does his sizing for cummerbunds work? Looks like he has two options: brass clip adjustable and one with no hardware. Is the non-adjustable a tie-back?

The one I had made is a tie back. I just gave him my waist size and we went from there. So mine was essentially a silk sash (think one of those martial art belts)

 

[dan'l]

Weird, I was actually perusing the Sam Hober website last night and saw those tie-back cummerbunds and wondered how they work! Do you just tie a knot, then? Won’t there be a bulge under your coat from the knot?

 

[DevilsOwn]

I suspect in the right fit with a tight enough knot it would be too small to be an issue. That inherently makes a proper fit important however

 

[The Chai]

Weird, I was actually perusing the Sam Hober website last night and saw those tie-back cummerbunds and wondered how they work! Do you just tie a knot, then? Won’t there be a bulge under your coat from the knot?

Not really. I have a disproportionately big bum (so I have my jackets cut slightly bigger in the waist) combined with a spinal curve so the knot rests on top of the bum so no fit issues here. I prefer it over the adjustable buckles. It’s definitely different

 

[iurvox]

Not really. I have a disproportionately big bum (so I have my jackets cut slightly bigger in the waist) combined with a spinal curve so the knot rests on top of the bum so no fit issues here. I prefer it over the adjustable buckles. It’s definitely different

Using self-knot cummerbund as well (made by Hober). I have to say it is a very nice ritual to self-tie the knot behind one's own back. It really signals to your spine that there is a special occasion coming up, if that makes sense. Think of muscle memory: You just do not get to perform those motions in any other event.

 

[The Chai]

Using self-knot cummerbund as well (made by Hober). I have to say it is a very nice ritual to self-tie the knot behind one's own back. It really signals to your spine that there is a special occasion coming up, if that makes sense. Think of muscle memory: You just do not get to perform those motions in any other event.

Agreed

 

[dan'l]

Interesting! I have a waistcoat with my black tie rig, but now I’m tempted to try the tie-back cummerbund!

 

[Concordia]

For your summer DJ.