The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[The Chai]

Alright. Let me re-phrase that: I'm finding it hard to stomach another [insert dollar amount that this could potentially cost >$300] expense for the wedding haha

I'll be seeing my tailor on Saturday and can ask the cost, but considering most visits for just tailoring run me $150+ and his shirts are well over $200, I imagine he'll be looking in the $500-700 range. Which is just too much at this point

I'd consider speaking to Hemrajani (we're in the process of re-making my tux shirt now) but we're starting to cut it pretty close to the wedding date.

Only the good
Option I can think of is to get sam hober to make you a cummerbund...they make some damn good ones

 

[Concordia]

Non-backless will be hard to find RTW.
Best bet (and might not be inexpensive, but will be easier to fit) will indeed be a cummerbund.

 

[classicalthunde]

Alright. Let me re-phrase that: I'm finding it hard to stomach another [insert dollar amount that this could potentially cost >$300] expense for the wedding haha

I'll be seeing my tailor on Saturday and can ask the cost, but considering most visits for just tailoring run me $150+ and his shirts are well over $200, I imagine he'll be looking in the $500-700 range. Which is just too much at this point

I'd consider speaking to Hemrajani (we're in the process of re-making my tux shirt now) but we're starting to cut it pretty close to the wedding date.

D&B Tailors outside of Philly? Someone in the Ongoing Bespoke Thread just got a bunch of bespoke pants from a John Di Pietro on lower broad...maybe give him a ring, he sounds old school and I would imagine the turn around would be well within 3 months. not sure what his price is

also, if you are in philly, have you checked out Boyds? they're a little modern now, but last time I was there they had a pretty decent tux section

 

[sftiger]

I haven't personally tried them, but I always enjoy seeing what people come up with on the Luxire thread. Here's what popped up on their site when I search "waistcoat."

I know it's white and the style may not be exactly what you want, but my understanding is they're pretty fast and it's pretty easy to customize exactly what you want.

Probably not as nice or traditional as E&R etc. but if you want cheaper and fast, might be your best option.

 

[Andy57]

Waistcoat SOS: I'm getting married in three months and cannot, for the life of me, find a decent non-backless black waistcoat. I thought I had finally struck gold on a 1940s grosgrain one on eBay after watching for a year now, and while the chest fits, it's about 3" too short (the whole point is to cover the waist, right?)

I've been using the Charles Tyrwhitt one for the time being, but it just doesn't fit right and I'm not wild about the 'bathtub' four-button cut (same with the Ede and Ravenscroft). I'm not opposed to going MTM or bespoke, but as much as I adore my tailor here (Gabe D'Annunzio of D&B Tailors - he's fabulous and used to dress Sinatra, among others), I'm finding it hard to stomach another $300-400 expense for the wedding.

What would you do?

I'd have one made.

But, if that's not what you want to do, Brooks Brothers makes the only RTW backless waistcoat that I know of, at least at retail in the U.S. If length is your issue, though, that might not work. Are your trousers a high enough rise? Perhaps that's the problem.

I'd consider speaking to Hemrajani (we're in the process of re-making my tux shirt now) but we're starting to cut it pretty close to the wedding date.

Hemrajani could certainly make you a waistcoat in the time you have available. But a cummerbund is a good idea, as it avoids the issue if the length problem is really caused by your trousers having too low a rise. You would just have to make sure that the cummerbund is deep enough to cover the buttons on your shirt (assuming your shirts takes three or four studs). Budd makes a good one, and will ship to the States in a few days. As mentioned, Hober is another option. If you go that route, also make sure that the texture of the cummerbund matches the texture of your tie.

 

[nosch455]

D&B Tailors outside of Philly? Someone in the Ongoing Bespoke Thread just got a bunch of bespoke pants from a John Di Pietro on lower broad...maybe give him a ring, he sounds old school and I would imagine the turn around would be well within 3 months. not sure what his price is

also, if you are in philly, have you checked out Boyds? they're a little modern now, but last time I was there they had a pretty decent tux section

Outside of Philly indeed! I adore Gabe but he’s not cheap (and very justifiably so). There was a thread on here about Philly tailors awhile back that went over the folks here. [Update]: just read the post on the Di Pietro pants, and he mentioned him quoting $500-600 for waistcoats.

Haven’t tried Boyd’s yet but I’ll be a block away from them this weekend. Their site is sleek but has next to nothing other than a Tom Ford tux listed. I’m wondering if they have a lot more in store than they do on the web

 

[nosch455]

I'd have one made.

But, if that's not what you want to do, Brooks Brothers makes the only RTW backless waistcoat that I know of, at least at retail in the U.S. If length is your issue, though, that might not work. Are your trousers a high enough rise? Perhaps that's the problem.


Hemrajani could certainly make you a waistcoat in the time you have available. But a cummerbund is a good idea, as it avoids the issue if the length problem is really caused by your trousers having too low a rise. You would just have to make sure that the cummerbund is deep enough to cover the buttons on your shirt (assuming your shirts takes three or four studs). Budd makes a good one, and will ship to the States in a few days. As mentioned, Hober is another option. If you go that route, also make sure that the texture of the cummerbund matches the texture of your tie.

You continue to be a wonderful resource! I think the length issue was just the waistcoat I found, because my pants have a non-insignificant rise (to my natural hip, just below the belly button). The ‘40s waistcoat hit just a few inches too high, but the CT one is actually quite longer than needed.

I’m not opposed to a cummerbund if all my sub-$300 options are exhausted, but I’ve always preferred the look of a proper waistcoat

 

[jonathanS]

Outside of Philly indeed! I adore Gabe but he’s not cheap (and very justifiably so). There was a thread on here about Philly tailors awhile back that went over the folks here. [Update]: just read the post on the Di Pietro pants, and he mentioned him quoting $500-600 for waistcoats.

Haven’t tried Boyd’s yet but I’ll be a block away from them this weekend. Their site is sleek but has next to nothing other than a Tom Ford tux listed. I’m wondering if they have a lot more in store than they do on the web

Boyd’s has some nice stuff if I recall correctly. But they’re probably out of your price range.

 

[classicalthunde]

Outside of Philly indeed! I adore Gabe but he’s not cheap (and very justifiably so). There was a thread on here about Philly tailors awhile back that went over the folks here. [Update]: just read the post on the Di Pietro pants, and he mentioned him quoting $500-600 for waistcoats.

Haven’t tried Boyd’s yet but I’ll be a block away from them this weekend. Their site is sleek but has next to nothing other than a Tom Ford tux listed. I’m wondering if they have a lot more in store than they do on the web

Boyds did a total re-vamp of their store in the past year or so (interior is much more sleek and modern), I haven't checked out their formal wear since then, but when i went in 2 years ago prior to my wedding they had a whole section for tuxes. definitely worth a look either way, but Boyds is known to be pricey

Per Andy's suggestion, there is a Brooks Brothers 2-3 blocks away from Boyds as well if you want to kill two birds with one stone.

FWIW, for my wedding I went with a cummerbund because its easier to find/fit OTR than a vest, more cost effective for someone who wears black tie once in a blue moon, and under the assumption that a wedding will be a marginally stressful/sweaty event and the less layers the better...but if your heart is set on a vest, by all means do it up for your wedding!

 

[JJ Katz]

Other waistcoat makers RTW you can check out are favourbrook, cabbage, etc. Savvy Row has inexpensive used ones.

 

[Concordia]

There is always Ralph Lauren. And if length to waist is a problem, can an alteration hoist it all up a little?

 

[UrbanComposition]

FWIW I’ve had vests shortened from the shoulder seam with no issues.

 

[nosch455]

FWIW I’ve had vests shortened from the shoulder seam with no issues.

Think they could go the opposite way? The grosgrain waistcoat I got this week needs about 1-1.5”, and it feels like there’s about that much in the shoulders. I don’t know if that would kill the proportions though and what it would do to the collar

 

[UrbanComposition]

Depends on how much fabric is there; your tailor could probably guess. If it can be lengthened I wouldn’t worry about creases since it’ll remain covered.

 

[Andy57]

Think they could go the opposite way? The grosgrain waistcoat I got this week needs about 1-1.5”, and it feels like there’s about that much in the shoulders. I don’t know if that would kill the proportions though and what it would do to the collar

The problem with lengthening a waistcoat from the shoulders is that you run the risk of the front of the waistcoat becoming too low and uncovering a button, perhaps. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's something to be aware of.