The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Concordia]

Not recently. But I do look at their cases, casually, and haven't seen anything like this.

 

[Andy57]

O tempora, o mores, as per the theme of this thread; today's black tie is not that of yesteryear, the Overton window of most occasions has much reduced, the remaining appropriate evenings are no longer black tie, not in that way. Nevertheless my view, as stated previously, is that if one must be naughty one must be fully naughty.

In that vein, one of the greatest naughties of the pantheon of the sartorially (and actually) naughty must be Jacques de Bascher, Lagerfeld's and YSL's ertswhile lover. His life was as brief as it was flamboyant; his descent as dramatic and troubling as his fierce burning had lit up the Parisian nightlife of the already rather illuminated 70s. His evening wear was often a true artistic statement, even if he was just as at ease in more traditional attire.

I have to admire the flamboyance of your writing that so beautifully matches the flamboyance of your subject. I do mean that as a compliment.

 

[upr_crust]

Today I am attending a 4:00 PM wedding, with a 7:00 PM black tie reception. The daytime ensemble is posted to WAYWRN - here is the evening attire.

Reception:

Tuxedo - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt, cufflinks & studs - Brooks Brothers
Tie - Budd, London
Pocket square - Harvie & Hudson, London
Waistcoat - Joseph Abboud
Braces - New & Lingwood, London
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue

 

[Andy57]

Today I am attending a 4:00 PM wedding, with a 7:00 PM black tie reception. The daytime ensemble is posted to WAYWRN - here is the evening attire.

Reception:

Tuxedo - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt, cufflinks & studs - Brooks Brothers
Tie - Budd, London
Pocket square - Harvie & Hudson, London
Waistcoat - Joseph Abboud
Braces - New & Lingwood, London
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue

I like this very much indeed. The waistcoat is unconventional, but really, really good.

 

[lemmywinks]

how do you dress black tie when the bride and groom actually have no idea what black tie means? wedding invite says black tie. i talked to bridge and groom and the groom just picked up a suit that he really likes. i'm not one to outdo the groom but still want to stay within the rules.

 

[Faux Brummell]

Ask the happy couple for more details on what they had in mind.

how do you dress black tie when the bride and groom actually have no idea what black tie means? wedding invite says black tie. i talked to bridge and groom and the groom just picked up a suit that he really likes. i'm not one to outdo the groom but still want to stay within the rules.

 

[AdductorMagnus]

Invite says black tie, wear black tie. It's not your fault there's a left shift on the curve.

 

[The Chai]

Today I am attending a 4:00 PM wedding, with a 7:00 PM black tie reception. The daytime ensemble is posted to WAYWRN - here is the evening attire.

Reception:

Tuxedo - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt, cufflinks & studs - Brooks Brothers
Tie - Budd, London
Pocket square - Harvie & Hudson, London
Waistcoat - Joseph Abboud
Braces - New & Lingwood, London
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue

View attachment 1202563 View attachment 1202564 View attachment 1202565 View attachment 1202566 View attachment 1202567

Is that a midnight bow tie on a dinner jacket with black facings? I have been meaning to try that look myself

 

[am55]

how do you dress black tie when the bride and groom actually have no idea what black tie means? wedding invite says black tie. i talked to bridge and groom and the groom just picked up a suit that he really likes. i'm not one to outdo the groom but still want to stay within the rules.

It is relatively common for the groom to look different from the rest, just roll with it. Most people will focus on the bride, whatever attention is left goes to the groom and family, so you won't be noticed and if someone does notice it would be rude of them to say anything. Generally speaking "outdoing" the couple is much more of a problem when it is done to the bride - I've heard people still talking about weddings years ago where that happened.

 

[upr_crust]

Is that a midnight bow tie on a dinner jacket with black facings? I have been meaning to try that look myself

Both the bow tie and the lapel facings are midnight blue.

 

[JJ Katz]

Today I am attending a 4:00 PM wedding, with a 7:00 PM black tie reception. The daytime ensemble is posted to WAYWRN - here is the evening attire.

Reception:

Tuxedo - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Shirt, cufflinks & studs - Brooks Brothers
Tie - Budd, London
Pocket square - Harvie & Hudson, London
Waistcoat - Joseph Abboud
Braces - New & Lingwood, London
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue

View attachment 1202563 View attachment 1202564 View attachment 1202565 View attachment 1202566 View attachment 1202567

Just brilliant.

 

[JJ Katz]

how do you dress black tie when the bride and groom actually have no idea what black tie means? wedding invite says black tie. i talked to bridge and groom and the groom just picked up a suit that he really likes. i'm not one to outdo the groom but still want to stay within the rules.

Ask them if the outfit you are planning to wear is OK by them.
A good friend married years ago wearing a suit w/ no tie. I asked him if he minded if I wore one. Simples!

 

[nosch455]

Waistcoat SOS: I'm getting married in three months and cannot, for the life of me, find a decent non-backless black waistcoat. I thought I had finally struck gold on a 1940s grosgrain one on eBay after watching for a year now, and while the chest fits, it's about 3" too short (the whole point is to cover the waist, right?)

I've been using the Charles Tyrwhitt one for the time being, but it just doesn't fit right and I'm not wild about the 'bathtub' four-button cut (same with the Ede and Ravenscroft). I'm not opposed to going MTM or bespoke, but as much as I adore my tailor here (Gabe D'Annunzio of D&B Tailors - he's fabulous and used to dress Sinatra, among others), I'm finding it hard to stomach another $300-400 expense for the wedding.

What would you do?

 

[The Chai]

Waistcoat SOS: I'm getting married in three months and cannot, for the life of me, find a decent non-backless black waistcoat. I thought I had finally struck gold on a 1940s grosgrain one on eBay after watching for a year now, and while the chest fits, it's about 3" too short (the whole point is to cover the waist, right?)

I've been using the Charles Tyrwhitt one for the time being, but it just doesn't fit right and I'm not wild about the 'bathtub' four-button cut (same with the Ede and Ravenscroft). I'm not opposed to going MTM or bespoke, but as much as I adore my tailor here (Gabe D'Annunzio of D&B Tailors - he's fabulous and used to dress Sinatra, among others), I'm finding it hard to stomach another $300-400 expense for the wedding.

What would you do?

300-400 for a bespoke waistcoat sounds pretty cheap to me...I would bite the bullet

 

[nosch455]

300-400 for a bespoke waistcoat sounds pretty cheap to me...I would bite the bullet

Alright. Let me re-phrase that: I'm finding it hard to stomach another [insert dollar amount that this could potentially cost >$300] expense for the wedding haha

I'll be seeing my tailor on Saturday and can ask the cost, but considering most visits for just tailoring run me $150+ and his shirts are well over $200, I imagine he'll be looking in the $500-700 range. Which is just too much at this point

I'd consider speaking to Hemrajani (we're in the process of re-making my tux shirt now) but we're starting to cut it pretty close to the wedding date.