The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[The Chai]

Is it just me, or is Mesut’s bowtie a tad too wide? Overall look is great, but I thought the bowtie ends should be about cheek width.

i think standard rule is not beyond the corner of your eyes. I had to get my bow ties custom by Sam Hober for this exact reason...not to mention I like unusual bow tie shapes. I quite like the old timey styled bow tie

 

[Andy57]

Is it just me, or is Mesut’s bowtie a tad too wide? Overall look is great, but I thought the bowtie ends should be about cheek width.

That’s the “rule”, or as above, about eyeball width apart. Personally, I don’t pay much attention to that.

 

[brax]

I'll see what I can put together in this vein when we get home later this month.

Meanwhile, in London:
View attachment 1189398

That was Sunday evening in Covent Garden, at Clos Maggiore. And then on Thursday, refining the art of the elevator selfie:
View attachment 1189399

Very nice.
It's difficult to tell from the pictures but is that a pleated shirt? New, correct?

 

[Andy57]

Very nice.
It's difficult to tell from the pictures but is that a pleated shirt? New, correct?

No, not in these pictures. It is a Marcella front shirt by Emma Willis. I have a voile pleated front shirt with me that I plan to wear one evening in Bordeaux next week. I might also wear it in Florence, if we get dressed for dinner one evening. Probably not, though.

 

[sometimesipostmyclothes]

Would you guys consider wearing a navy blue dinner jacket with black satin lapel with a pair of standard black, satin stripe, dinner trousers, or do you think they should match the main fabric?


I've seen both be done, and can't really make up my mind.

 

[bdavro23]

Would you guys consider wearing a navy blue dinner jacket with black satin lapel with a pair of standard black, satin stripe, dinner trousers, or do you think they should match the main fabric?


I've seen both be done, and can't really make up my mind.

Navy or midnight? I ask because "Navy" covers all manner of sins these days. My standard answer would be to try to match the trousers and jacket, unless there is significant contrast. In other words, black trousers with an Ivory DJ, is fine. As with all things, it depends...

 

[The Chai]

Cross post from ongoing bespoke page. Db dj in basting stage. Gonna have the buttoning point lowered. More padding in shoulders than usual for the strong structured shoulder look...

 

[Thin White Duke]

Catching up on this thread as I’ve been in holiday ...

1. I would be cautious about treating Fellowes drawings as actual history. It’s great to look through them as they catalogue an abundance of classic menswear and can be the source of great inspiration but just because some drawings were published decades ago doesn’t mean they actually happened in real life. I would suggest that a navy / midnight DB DJ with black facings and gold buttons worn with white / off white strides, sheer socks and patent pumps was extremely rarely (if ever?) worn in real life.

2. Andy that ecru DJ looks great with midnight tie and strides. I’m still in search of the perfect ecru DJ (don’t want to sink too much $$ in a jacket which will be rarely worn) but have always felt that against the warmer tones of ecru, black can look a little ‘harsh’ and you’ve demonstrated here that midnight takes the edge off that harshness to great effect.

 

[Faux Brummell]

Kind of looks like it might be a clip on!

Is it just me, or is Mesut’s bowtie a tad too wide? Overall look is great, but I thought the bowtie ends should be about cheek width.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Could anyone share a pitcure of a SB shawl collar dinner jacket with the shawl having a big, full shape? would be much appreciated. Again, single breasted, which i know limits the proportions a bit.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Having a third dinner suit made - this time by Chittleborough and Morgan. Black mohair/wool blend, the most amazing ribbed black silk facings. Alas no photos from the first fitting but it was already incredibly promising. 1BP peak lapel (4 1/2”, bellied; very high-cut trousers with fishtail back; wide trouser trim

 

[Faux Brummell]

Could anyone share a pitcure of a SB shawl collar dinner jacket with the shawl having a big, full shape? would be much appreciated. Again, single breasted, which i know limits the proportions a bit.

 

[WillingToLearn]

Are tux trousers typically flat front or can they have a pleat?

 

[lordsuperb]

Could anyone share a pitcure of a SB shawl collar dinner jacket with the shawl having a big, full shape? would be much appreciated. Again, single breasted, which i know limits the proportions a bit.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Are tux trousers typically flat front or can they have a pleat?

I would say that they are typically pleated but can be flat front.