The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

I’d suggest black calf oxfords or pumps, Andy. White bucks with black tie just seems...not a good idea. Although you of all people could probably pull it off.

I agree, white bucks just don't feel right at all. But I was reacting to my own dislike of black shoes with white trousers. I'll have to try my patents with the trousers I have in mind. Perhaps I'll like it better in practice.

 

[Concordia]

Patent used to be a very labour intensive process; repeated scrubbing of the surface of very fine calf leather with talc until the grain was as dry as you could make it, then coating with a heavily reduced and thickened oil that had been heating over a fire for a few days could bond with the oil free leather. That’s not been done for a long time now, and today a plastic coating is bonded to the surface. The surface quality isn’t so important for this lamination so cow hides rather than calf are used.

I have a couple of old stock patent calfskins knocking around somewhere for when I feel like going to the opera again, and will require the correct shoes

Are there detectable degrees of quality in patent supply, or is everyone harvesting the same plastic cow from Milton Keynes?

Meaning, is there any point besides proper fit and elegant heels to go bespoke on this? Still wondering if I should learn to do a gloss finish on calf and give up worrying about the patent shine.

 

[am55]

Patent used to be a very labour intensive process; repeated scrubbing of the surface of very fine calf leather with talc until the grain was as dry as you could make it, then coating with a heavily reduced and thickened oil that had been heating over a fire for a few days could bond with the oil free leather. That’s not been done for a long time now, and today a plastic coating is bonded to the surface. The surface quality isn’t so important for this lamination so cow hides rather than calf are used.

I have a couple of old stock patent calfskins knocking around somewhere for when I feel like going to the opera again, and will require the correct shoes

Thank you for the informative post. Any chance we could see plastic/old style side by side? I've always wondered what came before the plastic, and whether it looked much different.

 

[ntempleman]

The old stuff was also “plastic” in as much as a plastic being nothing more than a malleable hardened oil based substance. It was just made a less efficient way. I’ve only ever seen old sample shoes made from it, I’d expect all hides are long gone, and the coating has migrated in many places on the surface of those shoes. The leather feels softer and thinner than used today, almost like a kidskin but the glacé and appearance is much smoother than glacé kid

 

[Andy57]

The old stuff was also “plastic” in as much as a plastic being nothing more than a malleable hardened oil based substance. It was just made a less efficient way. I’ve only ever seen old sample shoes made from it, I’d expect all hides are long gone, and the coating has migrated in many places on the surface of those shoes. The leather feels softer and thinner than used today, almost like a kidskin but the glacé and appearance is much smoother than glacé kid

I sent you an email, but I found I have three different email addresses for you!

 

[ntempleman]

They should all work!

 

[Mark from Plano]

Here are a couple of illustrations of the “Reverse” summer combination we were discussing before:

As you will notice in the one image he’s clearly wearing black pumps and hosiery. The other image is less clear. Could those be black and white spectators? Seems odd. Maybe just light reflection off the patent.

Also, notice that the dinner jackets both have brass buttons. Lol. No thanks.

Overall a very cool look. A Midnight Tuxedo is on my agenda for next year. Just need a pair of uncuffed cream trousers to pair with the jacket.

 

[Concordia]

First not visible. Interesting problem-- how blue the jacket, and to go for black lapels? And what about those blazer buttons? Hmmm...

 

[Mark from Plano]

Yes. Had trouble with the images. Should be in there now but as a thumbnail.

 

[norMD]

First not visible. Interesting problem-- how blue the jacket, and to go for black lapels? And what about those blazer buttons? Hmmm...

I thought Black lapel were the standard on midnight blue dinner jackets? I agree on the buttons. Maybe it is time for someone to create the SF blazer tux..

 

[The Chai]

I remember seeing a Scholte sketch of a double-breasted dinner jacket made for the Duke of with black sunken anchor buttons. They were similar to peacoat buttons but domed-shaped instead of flat. I have considered playing around with the idea myself.

https://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/1721541/

 

[Andy57]

Here are a couple of illustrations of the “Reverse” summer combination we were discussing before:

As you will notice in the one image he’s clearly wearing black pumps and hosiery.

I'll see what I can put together in this vein when we get home later this month.

Meanwhile, in London:


That was Sunday evening in Covent Garden, at Clos Maggiore. And then on Thursday, refining the art of the elevator selfie:

 

[Veremund]

 

[Concordia]

Now, that is a classic cut.

The black suit is also very nice.

 

[dan'l]

Is it just me, or is Mesut’s bowtie a tad too wide? Overall look is great, but I thought the bowtie ends should be about cheek width.