The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[JimBad05]

Quick question regarding black tie footwear. Instead of purchasing patent leather shoes, would a wholecut Oxford with a mirror gloss shine cover my bases here?

I recently purchased a couple pairs of black tie socks (75% silk/25% cotton) and I'm thinking about what shoes I'd wear them with. I've never been called upon to wear a tuxedo, and have never been invited to a black tie event, but as we say in Boy Scouts, 'Always be prepared,' right?

This being the case, it doesn't seem economical to purchase a pair of patent leather shoes in the off chance I'm ever invited to a black tie event. I currently own cap toe Oxfords, but I know those aren't ideal for black tie either. If I picked up a pair of black wholecut Oxfords, along with the products to bring them up to a mirror gloss shine, would this cover me for black tie?

The highly-shined Oxford route seems a lot more versatile, as they could be worn with a suit or just a sport coat. I know that patent leather is only acceptable for tuxedos and above.

 

[Concordia]

Even cap-toed calf can allow you to make do if polished enough. Although plain-toe is a bit better.

Whole-cut is a little unorthodox no matter for day or evening, but you'll still be well ahead of most people in that department.

Another option-- also unorthodox and not good for serious walking-- belgian loafers. You don't want Aldens, but an elegant slipper can be argued into service. Assuming you have other opportunities to use such a thing. Another idea is the opera pumps, which, while useless at all other times, are not usually that expensive.

 

[JimBad05]

Even cap-toed calf can allow you to make do if polished enough. Although plain-toe is a bit better.

A plain toe Oxford, but not wholecut, such as the shoe shown in the attached image?

 

[Concordia]

Very fine.

 

[Andy57]

A little Cavalliera Rusticana/Pagliaccio outtake from last night.

Wow, Peter! You both look great. Black tie perfection.

 

[brax]

If you had to choose between a whole cut and not-a-wholecut to wear with black tie, I'd go with the wholecut. Easy choice for me but I wear opera pumps in public and Albert slippers at more private events.

 

[Lensmaster]

Not sure what is right or wrong in regards to pleats but reverse look better to me. if you are an anglophile you might favor regular pleats and if you lean towards an Italian aesthetic you might prefer reverse pleats.
Wearing black tie is about elegance and i prefer simplicity and clean lines, single reverse pleat is that to me. Most important is whichever you choose it should work with and compliment your body type.

In reading comments on this discussion it sounds like there might be confusion on the terms used for the different pleats. I want to make sure I understand what people are saying. The way I understand it the direction a pleat faces means the direction the opening faces. So forward pleats the opening is facing forward, or sort of towards each other. The other way is the opening of the pleats facing towards your hips, I am assuming that is reverse pleats. Correct me if I am off. By the way I prefer pleats facing forward (towards each other). It gives the front of the pants a flatter, slimmer look. Pleats facing the other way give a balloon like, large abdomen look.

 

[Lensmaster]

Thank you, Andy. I think you may be right about my wearing the cummerbund too low. It is a bit narrow to begin with, and I was trying to place its midpoint right over the seam of my shirt and pants -- thinking that would give me the best coverage to not expose the seam in case the cummerbund moved. Will try placing it higher next time.

Every narrow cummerbund I've had was useless. It needs to have some coverage to be useful. The cummerbund isn't to be centered on the waistband. It's purpose is to cover the waistband yes, but to cover the space from the waistband to the shirt placate also. If you are wearing pants that properly reach your natural waist then there isn't too much space to work with and the cummerbund will cover your waistband as well as that lower part of the shirt. This positioning will put the cummerbund on your stomach, above where your hips bend when you sit down.

 

[Lensmaster]

Seems even Frankie made some missteps in his sartorial ventures.

For the early 70's this is quite subdued. It's not surprising that a bit of 70's flash would creep into his wardrobe at the time.

 

[bdavro23]

I promised pictures of my new dinner suit, but I got busy. This will have to do, forgive the lack of an iGent pose...

 

[Joffrey]

After months of trolling this thread and a few basic questions, I thought I'd upload my one decent formal wear picture for your entertainment. Apologies it's not a full picture and it's in a bathroom. All the others I have are action shots



Some critiques - the KW studs I purchased fell apart before I could even finish dressing up. I kept the cuff links and ditched the studs - luckily my shirt had optional buttons. It turns out the trousers need taking in by .5"-1.0" - they fit fine during initial try-ons and while getting the hem and jacket adjusted. Despite side tabs I felt like they were going to slide down at any time - they held up but not fun at a wedding. I used ribbon laces with my normal cap toe shoes - love them but they come undone quite easily.

ANyway, here was my gear:
Tuxedo - Spier & McKay
Shirt - Brooks Brothers Milano Fit bib front
Cumurbund - Kent Wang
Bow Tie - Kent Wang
Cuff Links & Studs - Kent Wang
Shoes - Santoni freshly polished with ribbon laces
Socks - red howard yount

Now just need to find 1 or 2 more events this Fall/Winter to try again...

 

[Andy57]

In reading comments on this discussion it sounds like there might be confusion on the terms used for the different pleats. I want to make sure I understand what people are saying. The way I understand it the direction a pleat faces means the direction the opening faces. So forward pleats the opening is facing forward, or sort of towards each other. The other way is the opening of the pleats facing towards your hips, I am assuming that is reverse pleats. Correct me if I am off.

Your understanding is correct.

I promised pictures of my new dinner suit, but I got busy. This will have to do, forgive the lack of an iGent pose...

Looks good! But perhaps a waist covering?

After months of trolling this thread and a few basic questions, I thought I'd upload my one decent formal wear picture for your entertainment. Apologies it's not a full picture and it's in a bathroom. All the others I have are action shots

Some critiques - the KW studs I purchased fell apart before I could even finish dressing up. I kept the cuff links and ditched the studs - luckily my shirt had optional buttons. It turns out the trousers need taking in by .5"-1.0" - they fit fine during initial try-ons and while getting the hem and jacket adjusted. Despite side tabs I felt like they were going to slide down at any time - they held up but not fun at a wedding. I used ribbon laces with my normal cap toe shoes - love them but they come undone quite easily.

Socks - red howard yount

Now just need to find 1 or 2 more events this Fall/Winter to try again...

Do the trousers have buttons for braces/suspenders? If so, obtain a pair and wear them. The trousers will hang better and the extra room in the waist will be more comfortable (especially if the event involves much eating!).

Red socks?

As for additional events, make your own. It's a dinner jacket, so if you enjoy wearing it, wear it to dinner.

 

[Concordia]

After months of trolling this thread and a few basic questions, I thought I'd upload my one decent formal wear picture for your entertainment. Apologies it's not a full picture and it's in a bathroom. All the others I have are action shots

View attachment 1045468

Some critiques - the KW studs I purchased fell apart before I could even finish dressing up. I kept the cuff links and ditched the studs - luckily my shirt had optional buttons. It turns out the trousers need taking in by .5"-1.0" - they fit fine during initial try-ons and while getting the hem and jacket adjusted. Despite side tabs I felt like they were going to slide down at any time - they held up but not fun at a wedding. I used ribbon laces with my normal cap toe shoes - love them but they come undone quite easily.

ANyway, here was my gear:
Tuxedo - Spier & McKay
Shirt - Brooks Brothers Milano Fit bib front
Cumurbund - Kent Wang
Bow Tie - Kent Wang
Cuff Links & Studs - Kent Wang
Shoes - Santoni freshly polished with ribbon laces
Socks - red howard yount

Now just need to find 1 or 2 more events this Fall/Winter to try again...

Looks nice.

As time goes on, you may find solutions for any part of this problem you like more. But what you have is absolutely by the book, and you appear comfortable in it. Enjoy!

 

[Nat Jag]

After months of trolling this thread and a few basic questions, I thought I'd upload my one decent formal wear picture for your entertainment. Apologies it's not a full picture and it's in a bathroom. All the others I have are action shots

View attachment 1045468

Some critiques - the KW studs I purchased fell apart before I could even finish dressing up. I kept the cuff links and ditched the studs - luckily my shirt had optional buttons. It turns out the trousers need taking in by .5"-1.0" - they fit fine during initial try-ons and while getting the hem and jacket adjusted. Despite side tabs I felt like they were going to slide down at any time - they held up but not fun at a wedding. I used ribbon laces with my normal cap toe shoes - love them but they come undone quite easily.

ANyway, here was my gear:
Tuxedo - Spier & McKay
Shirt - Brooks Brothers Milano Fit bib front
Cumurbund - Kent Wang
Bow Tie - Kent Wang
Cuff Links & Studs - Kent Wang
Shoes - Santoni freshly polished with ribbon laces
Socks - red howard yount

Now just need to find 1 or 2 more events this Fall/Winter to try again...

Holy Moly, That looks great. There's obviously a good reason you're smiling and it's because it looks spot on. Can't comment on the trousers of course.

 

[bdavro23]

@Andy57 I assure you there is a cummerbund in that picture