The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[DavidJordan]

Hello All,

Here are two pictures of my wedding reception outfit. What do you think?

-David

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Hello All,

Here are two pictures of my wedding reception outfit. What do you think?

-David

^Well gawd dayam so this is what it looks like to set the baller dial to 11...

Normal people are only looking at the smokeshow in the dress but styleforumites are like, "Whoa who shaped that shawl lapel belly for you? Self-facing, or a subtle grosgrain, I can't quite tell? Is that ivory, cream, or ecru? What book is that from? Is the shoulder lightly padded or totally unstructured?"

 

[Andy57]

Working on the details of the ivory dinner jacket and have a few questions:
1. The ivory DJ will have self lapels (not silk). The trousers will, of course, have silk covering the seams. And I will use the same silk for the bowtie. For warm weather and a more relaxed feel should I go for velvet or grosgrain?
2. What buttons on the double-breasted DJ?

I'd recommend a grosgrain bowtie. Technically, the finish of the tie ought to match the finish of the stripe on the trousers (and the lapels, unless those are self-faced). So, if that stripe is grosgrain, your tie should be, too.

And either self-faced buttons or ivory MOP.

 

[The Chai]

I prefer shantung silk bowties for my ivory jackets...feels more "summery"

 

[brax]

I prefer shantung silk bowties for my ivory jackets...feels more "summery"

I have shantung ties and like them very much. But as Andy notes, I need the bow tie to match my trouser seam covering so shantung is out.

I’m going with grosgrain. My Naples tailor says that they use the same grosgrain that most Naples tailors use. So, is all grosgrain pretty much the same? Or should I look to source premium grosgrain (if that even exists)?

 

[The Chai]

I have shantung ties and like them very much. But as Andy notes, I need the bow tie to match my trouser seam covering so shantung is out.

I’m going with grosgrain. My Naples tailor says that they use the same grosgrain that most Naples tailors use. So, is all grosgrain pretty much the same? Or should I look to source premium grosgrain (if that even exists)?

https://en.foderezamboni1948.com/shop/01-0064-rever-140-cm-art-canete-silk-cord-facing-100-seta/

Thank me later

 

[brax]

https://en.foderezamboni1948.com/shop/01-0064-rever-140-cm-art-canete-silk-cord-facing-100-seta/

Thank me later

Can I thank you now? I assume that silk cord is grosgrain based on my prior post. And that it is appropriate for both trousers and bow ties. Is this assumption correct?

 

[matchankh]

I’m thinking about these Caulaincourt Belgian loafers for my pre wedding photoshoot in Paris which I will be wearing a tuxedo. Maybe an unusual choice but I have seen guys wearing black suede Belgian loafers with their tuxedos and quite like the look. I figure the patent leather piping makes it more suitable for black tie.
Is this a big no no?



https://www.caulaincourt.paris/en/produit/shoes/summer-shoes/gattaca-black/?v=69e1aafeccc5

 

[hpreston]

I’m thinking about these Caulaincourt Belgian loafers for my pre wedding photoshoot in Paris which I will be wearing a tuxedo. Maybe an unusual choice but I have seen guys wearing black suede Belgian loafers with their tuxedos and quite like the look. I figure the patent leather piping makes it more suitable for black tie.
Is this a big no no?



https://www.caulaincourt.paris/en/produit/shoes/summer-shoes/gattaca-black/?v=69e1aafeccc5

View attachment 1965061
View attachment 1965063

I think those would be great with a tuxedo for all but the most formal of events. Do it!

 

[brax]

Can I thank you now? I assume that silk cord is grosgrain based on my prior post. And that it is appropriate for both trousers and bow ties. Is this assumption correct?

@The Chai
Before I ask my tailor to buy this, I want to be certain that I understand you correctly. Thanks.

 

[The Chai]

@The Chai
Before I ask my tailor to buy this, I want to be certain that I understand you correctly. Thanks.

Yes...there is a picture on the sartoria crescent instagram of their tailor using the exact same grosgrain. I myself am about to use it for my tailcoat. They do sell their trouser braid separately. Re bow ties it depends but I like that thick heavy silk feel so it is a yes for me. But makes for a bulky bow tie which may not be too everyone's taste.

 

[Bigbadwolfen]

Whats the opinion on actual brided galons on formal pants instead of just a pure gorssgrain/satin braid? I like the look but never seen it in person

 

[The Chai]

B

Whats the opinion on actual brided galons on formal pants instead of just a pure gorssgrain/satin braid? I like the look but never seen it in person

U mean silk braid?

 

[Bigbadwolfen]

B

U mean silk braid?

Exactly, I see them a lot on pictures of vintage formal trousers but today it seems like plain grossgrain/satin silk is the norm even with bespoke. See pic for reference of what I mean.

 

[gimpwiz]

Hi friends,

The dinner suit I mentioned before is about to get the green light. There is one thing I am still waffling about and would like to gather opinions.

I cannot decide between H&S 9722020 vs 9722019.

9722020

9722019

To some extent, it feels like '19 is too yellow and '20 is too white. I am very strongly leaning towards '20. Our Andy57 looks smashing in '19, but I am not entirely sure how much the yellow tone comes from saturation sliders being cranked up (often by phone defaults) vs how it looks in reality. I can't find anyone wearing '20 in good sunlight. Of course the irony is, it's generally not meant to be worn in good sunlight

H&S's site does not render them color accurate either.

I've attached a photo that, of course, being indoors, is also not particularly color accurate.

Anyways, I am sure both choices are great, but would love to solicit opinions.