The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[TN001]

I have a black tie holiday ball to go to tonight. I haven't worn black tie in a few years, so it will be nice to do so. Dinner suit is a black peak lapeled Luciano Barberra (made by Attolini) with grosgrain facings and a vest. I'm not a big velvet slipper guy, and I am a traditionalist, but when I would wear diminutive pumps, I always felt like my size 11.5's looked odd. So years ago, Allen Edmonds of all companies, made patent pumps that were a bit beefier, and I called and asked them if they would make them in plain black calf and 86 the red lining. They said "yes"; I think they only charged me like $100 over whatever the cost was. They're not the most elegant pumps, but the proportions are good, and the bows are of a traditional style.

 

[The Chai]

I'm personally not a fan of the allen Edmonds opera pumps because of the vamps. I think pumps look way better without the vamp than with

 

[TN001]

I'm personally not a fan of the allen Edmonds opera pumps because of the vamps. I think pumps look way better without the vamp than with

They do have a higher vamp than other pumps, that's true (and probably contributes to the less elegant, less slipper look), although in all fairness, it's like less than an inch higher than the Ralph Lauren pair they replaced.

 

[Concordia]

Very congruent and logical.

In Britain, wing collars are now considered declasse for use with black tie, even when as well-made as yours. But I have a pique front shirt with a turn-down collar that might work in that rig, without offending my shirtmaker. Of course, with black barathea and Chinese cheongsam options for waistcoats-- and a black cummerbund-- it may not be worth getting too far off track!

 

[The Chai]

I have a bolt of cream dupioni mini herringbone silk that I intend to make into a white tie waistcoat which I suppose could double up for formal black tie

 

[Concordia]

Cut it low, and leave options for different color studs to fasten. Unless you're a nothing-but-moonstone sort of dude.

 

[Andy57]

Of course, with black barathea and Chinese cheongsam options for waistcoats-- and a black cummerbund-- it may not be worth getting too far off track!

I'd would very much like to see the cheongsam waistcoat. Obviously I know what a cheongsam is, but I'm having difficulty picturing a waistcoat version. It sounds intriguing.

 

[Concordia]

Fabric only-- the cut is the same low, white-tie formula with square-bottom lapels.

 

[The Chai]

I'd would very much like to see the cheongsam waistcoat. Obviously I know what a cheongsam is, but I'm having difficulty picturing a waistcoat version. It sounds intriguing.

That's another idea I am playing with. I would like a cheongsam dinner jacket...would be like a velvet jacket in practice. Double.breasted shawl with frogging. The challenging part is finding the proper full silk cheongsam fabric...which is near impossible to get online. You'd probably have to go to china or hong kong and have someone that speaks the lingo

 

[Andy57]

Fabric only-- the cut is the same low, white-tie formula with square-bottom lapels.

Ah, I see.

That's another idea I am playing with. I would like a cheongsam dinner jacket...would be like a velvet jacket in practice. Double.breasted shawl with frogging. The challenging part is finding the proper full silk cheongsam fabric...which is near impossible to get online. You'd probably have to go to china or hong kong and have someone that speaks the lingo

What is special about cheongsam fabric? There are several stores in San Francisco's Chinatown that sell high-end cheongsam dresses and, although I've never looked closely, they also sell the heavy silk fabric that the dresses are made from. I have no reason to assume that there is anything inauthentic about either the dresses or the fabric. To make a jacket from such silk would, however, require the fabric to have a backing of some sort, I would think.

 

[Andy57]

More shots of my London Lounge mohair double-breasted dinner jacket. I have several dinner jackets that I like, but this one is just bonkers. It's up there with my ivory DB.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Incredible. Is that black or a midnight blue?

 

[Andy57]

Incredible. Is that black or a midnight blue?

Thank you, although the credit belongs entirely to Divij Hemrajani and his team. This one is black.

 

[Concordia]

Was it a big adjustment to find a 4x1 that worked for you? I worry that the button point would make sitting uncomfortable.

 

[Andy57]

Was it a big adjustment to find a 4x1 that worked for you? I worry that the button point would make sitting uncomfortable.

Honestly, no. And frankly, when I'm sitting to eat, I unbutton whatever jacket I happen to be wearing. I'm aware of the protocol, but choose to ignore it.

You've made curious, now, to compare buttoning points on this jacket and other DBs, both 4x1 and 6x2. This new black jacket is a more or less exact copy of my ivory dinner jacket, except for the lapels, so it felt familiar right away.