The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Canadianguy]

Technically this should be in the white tie thread, but since we talked about orchestra dress codes here...

The Philadelphia Orchestra's new dress code for men is a welcome change

The Philadelphia Orchestra's decision to finally relax its rigid fashion rules has given us all permission to drop every manner of pretense.

www.inquirer.com

How unfortunate. I admit I can understand the desire to “update” the white tie dress code, however, wearing an all black ensemble like this is just depressing.

 

[Andy57]

On the topic of velvet, do people generally prefer to keep the lapels fabric matching or with satin for a velvet dinner jacket? I haven't had any made before but would be keen in the future, leaning towards velvet without satin finishing.

Depends. I would (and have) used black silk facings on a shawl lapel jacket, and no facing on a peak lapel. But it is entirely up to you.

 

[Andy57]

Very helpful, Andy. Thank you. I will stick with cotton.

I think I know what you mean by upside down but I’m not certain. By upside down do you mean that it is smooth as my hand travels from bottom to top and a bit rough from top to bottom? And unfortunately I have no idea who Divij is.

Yes, exactly. And I apologize and the reference to Divij (Hemrajani). I got confused about which thread this was!

 

[Veremund]

Fair enough, but he is still Ralph and can do whatever the **** he want's I guess

Anyone can do anything they want, but that doesn't mean it doesn't look like crap.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

How unfortunate. I admit I can understand the desire to “update” the white tie dress code, however, wearing an all black ensemble like this is just depressing.

They look terrible, especially since the women are unchanged.

 

[WhereNext]

On the topic of velvet, do people generally prefer to keep the lapels fabric matching or with satin for a velvet dinner jacket? I haven't had any made before but would be keen in the future, leaning towards velvet without satin finishing.

To Andy's feedback, which I agree with, I would also add that black silk facing on the lapels would likely look better on a darker color jacket than a lighter colored jacket. By "look better", I of course mean the totally objective and rule-defining, "look better to me".

 

[Andy57]

To Andy's feedback, which I agree with, I would also add that black silk facing on the lapels would likely look better on a darker color jacket than a lighter colored jacket. By "look better", I of course mean the totally objective and rule-defining, "look better to me".

I agree with this rule of thumb. By way of illustration:

 

[Van Veen]

I think you guys really really underestimate how bad at dressing 85-90% of men in orchestras are. (And this include the millionaire big name conductors.) At least all black hides most of the sins.

 

[WhereNext]

I agree with this rule of thumb. By way of illustration:
View attachment 1684277 View attachment 1684278

To be fair, I was able to distill that down from my own chaotic thoughts based on a point you made to me about my own question about "unusual" colored dinner jackets a few months ago.
Also, that green jacket, in particular, is great. No hate towards the other one!

 

[Andy57]

Standard, no frills, black tie.

 

[Faux Brummell]

I saw this image online of a formal wear brochure from the 1960s. Notice that they claim that their tuxedo is appropriate for day or evening! Thought they knew better back then.

 

[NakedYoga]

@Andy57 Great stuff as usual. As cool as your more unusual ensembles are, nothing beats a well executed classic setup for me. I'll be wearing the same, albeit with shawl collar, tomorrow evening for the grand opening of my church's newly renovated/reconstructed event space. It'll be my first black tie outing since an event in Vegas several years ago, and the first outing of this particular rig. Very excited.

 

[Canadianguy]

@Andy57 Great stuff as usual. As cool as your more unusual ensembles are, nothing beats a well executed classic setup for me. I'll be wearing the same, albeit with shawl collar, tomorrow evening for the grand opening of my church's newly renovated/reconstructed event space. It'll be my first black tie outing since an event in Vegas several years ago, and the first outing of this particular rig. Very excited.

Enjoy! Post a pic if you can.

 

[Lensmaster]

I saw this image online of a formal wear brochure from the 1960s. Notice that they claim that their tuxedo is appropriate for day or evening! Thought they knew better back then.

View attachment 1686510

Just like today that is marketing. They didn't care about customs, just sales. If you convince people they can wear something all day you sell more product.

 

[Andy57]

@Andy57 Great stuff as usual. As cool as your more unusual ensembles are, nothing beats a well executed classic setup for me. I'll be wearing the same, albeit with shawl collar, tomorrow evening for the grand opening of my church's newly renovated/reconstructed event space. It'll be my first black tie outing since an event in Vegas several years ago, and the first outing of this particular rig. Very excited.

Thank you. Every once in a while I like to show that, even though I enjoy all sorts of variations of black tie, I am perfectly capable of no nonsense black tie any time I feel like it.

I hope you enjoy your event. As mentioned by others, do post pictures!