The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[dukeaw]

@Andy57

I aspire to your elegance and poise. You have been very helpful.

 

[Andy57]

@Andy57

I aspire to your elegance and poise. You have been very helpful.

Thank you for those kind words.

 

[Dillardiv]

@Dillardiv, I would concur with this advice. If you have the time, Divij Bespoke will make you a very nice tuxedo. All but one of my dinner jackets that I wear regularly are by Divij Bespoke/Hemrajani.

Any clue if this can be accomplished without visiting them in person?

 

[Andy57]

Any clue if this can be accomplished without visiting them in person?

I would say not. You would have to visit their office or go see them if they visit a location near you. Divij is a traveling tailor and may visit near where you live. The company is based in Costa Mesa, California, if you are in SoCal.

 

[Sreezy36]

Would tartan odd trousers made from fabrics such as the dugdale tartans pictured in the post work as an odd trouser paired with tradition black/midnight single or double breasted Dinner Jacket? Mainly on occasions in which casual variations of black tie attire are acceptable.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Pardon my perhaps stretching the premise of this thread, but this jacket by Joseph Genuardi is gorgeous. (It isn't mine, but I almost wish that it were)

 

[benjamin831]

Has anybody had any experience with these cloths?

Smith Woollens SW7857: 3-ply, 55% wool, 45% mohair, 12/13oz
Standeven 6014: 2-ply, 70% wool, 30% mohair, 12oz

 

[Andy57]

Would tartan odd trousers made from fabrics such as the dugdale tartans pictured in the post work as an odd trouser paired with tradition black/midnight single or double breasted Dinner Jacket? Mainly on occasions in which casual variations of black tie attire are acceptable.
View attachment 1585208 View attachment 1585209

Absolutely!

 

[Andy57]

Has anybody had any experience with these cloths?

Smith Woollens SW7857: 3-ply, 55% wool, 45% mohair, 12/13oz
Standeven 6014: 2-ply, 70% wool, 30% mohair, 12oz

I don't, but both houses are quality suppliers. Have you had the chance to handle swatches? One drawback with mohair is a certain scratchiness. Which is why I have my mohair trousers fully lined.

 

[The Chai]

Has anybody had any experience with these cloths?

Smith Woollens SW7857: 3-ply, 55% wool, 45% mohair, 12/13oz
Standeven 6014: 2-ply, 70% wool, 30% mohair, 12oz

I have for the second one. What da ya wanna know?

 

[Andy57]

Does anyone remember a Laurence Fellows illustration (or it may have been another AA illustrator or even a different publication) picturing a gentleman wearing a black dinner jacket and off-white/ivory trousers? I seem to recall a couple of posts about the idea a while back, but I went back to the beginning of 2020 with no luck. And a Google search came up dry, too. I'm pretty sure I'm not hallucinating, so does anyone recall the illustration I'm thinking of?

 

[Mark from Plano]

Does anyone remember a Laurence Fellows illustration (or it may have been another AA illustrator or even a different publication) picturing a gentleman wearing a black dinner jacket and off-white/ivory trousers? I seem to recall a couple of posts about the idea a while back, but I went back to the beginning of 2020 with no luck. And a Google search came up dry, too. I'm pretty sure I'm not hallucinating, so does anyone recall the illustration I'm thinking of?

This one?

 

[benjamin831]

I have for the second one. What da ya wanna know?

I was wondering how it performs wrinkle-resistance wise and whether it is too shiny. I haven't had the change to see the fabric in person, but photos online looks a bit glossy.

 

[benjamin831]

I don't, but both houses are quality suppliers. Have you had the chance to handle swatches? One drawback with mohair is a certain scratchiness. Which is why I have my mohair trousers fully lined.

Unfortunately I have not. What's your take on heavy pure wool barathea, such as 15oz or so, versus lighter wool/mohair blends?

 

[ericgereghty]

I don't, but both houses are quality suppliers. Have you had the chance to handle swatches? One drawback with mohair is a certain scratchiness. Which is why I have my mohair trousers fully lined.

Oh Andy, embrace the grit! Unsure what this says about me, but I actually enjoy the scratch that often (always?) accompanies mohair.