The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Veremund]

Which line is that? So many quotable lines in that movie!

Police Chief: So Rick, what brought you to Casablanca?
Rick: My health. I came here for the waters.
Police Chief: Water? What waters? We’re in the desert!
Rick: I was... misinformed.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Police Chief: So Rick, what brought you to Casablanca?
Rick: My health. I came here for the waters.
Police Chief: Water? What waters? We’re in the desert!
Rick: I was... misinformed.

“You can’t close me down - on what grounds?”
“I’m shocked! Shocked to discover that gambling has been going on here!”
(“Here are you winnings sir”)
“Oh thank you very much. Clear the room everyone!”

We could be here all day as the entire film is quotable. Which is even more impressive when you learn that the screenplay was bashed out on the hoof. And Ronald Reagan (among many others) was once in the frame to play Rick!

 

[Roycru]

As "Casablanca" has been mentioned, many of the cast and crew of "Casablanca" had recently escaped from Europe.

Here's Looking at Casablanca's Refugee Story, 75 Years On

How the Golden Age classic bears remarkable similarity to a forgotten film about child refugees.

filmschoolrejects.com

 

[Thin White Duke]

As "Casablanca" has been mentioned, many of the cast and crew of "Casablanca" had recently escaped from Europe.

Here's Looking at Casablanca's Refugee Story, 75 Years On

How the Golden Age classic bears remarkable similarity to a forgotten film about child refugees.

filmschoolrejects.com

Yeah I seem to remember Conrad Veidt (Col. Stresser) was married to a Jewish lady and escaped the Nazi regime in the thirties. He knew he’d be cast in Nazi roles in Hollywood so insisted that they were always villains and not be portrayed sympathetically.

 

[Dillardiv]

Hi all, long time member here but it's been a while, so forgive me. What's SF's best recommendation for a tuxedo in the $500-$1,000 and $1,000-1,500 price ranges? My wedding is coming up and I'm using it as an excuse to replace the one I've owned for 10 years.

 

[classicalthunde]

For RTW in the $500-1000 range I'd suggest SuitSupply and Spier and Mackay, they have a number of different styles that include classic designs and updates on classic designs in the case of SuitSupply

Depending on how much time you have in front of you, you might consider Divij Hemrajani Bespoke/MTM, I have a suit and blazer from them and I think they would be within your $1000-1500 range (or maybe just slightly above it)

Most of @Andy57 's tuxedos in this threads gallery are from Joe and Divij Hemrajani

 

[Andy57]

For RTW in the $500-1000 range I'd suggest SuitSupply and Spier and Mackay, they have a number of different styles that include classic designs and updates on classic designs in the case of SuitSupply

Depending on how much time you have in front of you, you might consider Divij Hemrajani Bespoke/MTM, I have a suit and blazer from them and I think they would be within your $1000-1500 range (or maybe just slightly above it)

Most of @Andy57 's tuxedos in this threads gallery are from Joe and Divij Hemrajani

@Dillardiv, I would concur with this advice. If you have the time, Divij Bespoke will make you a very nice tuxedo. All but one of my dinner jackets that I wear regularly are by Divij Bespoke/Hemrajani.

 

[dukeaw]

Howdy all,

I have a post vaccination outdoor black tie wedding coming this May and I'm ordering my new tux. (Just got my first pfizer shot yesterday and my girlfriend gets hers monday!) Bateman Ogden wool/mohair Barathea in black with single button grosgrain peak lapel. I used a cummerbund in the past but I've decided to mix it up and have a waistcoat made. I've read the black tie guide and for the waistcoat I'm doing a 3 button U shaped shawl lapel in the same jacket cloth. Grosgrain lapels to match the jacket, but shawl instead of peak.

First question, is matching a U shawl lapel vest with a peak jacket a mistake or is it acceptable by standards of formality? The other option would be a V peak lapel or no lapel.
Second question, how much of the waistcoat should be showing, if any? Should the button point of the vest match the jacket or be a touch higher than the jacket's button point.

Thanks

 

[Faux Brummell]

A u-shaped shawl waistcoat with a peak jacket is an amazing choice. My personal favorite.

 

[Andy57]

First question, is matching a U shawl lapel vest with a peak jacket a mistake or is it acceptable by standards of formality? The other option would be a V peak lapel or no lapel.
Second question, how much of the waistcoat should be showing, if any? Should the button point of the vest match the jacket or be a touch higher than the jacket's button point.

Thanks

A u-shaped shawl waistcoat with a peak jacket is an amazing choice. My personal favorite.

I agree, a fine choice!

As for the waistcoat showing, it's okay if it peeks slightly above the button point of the jacket when the jacket is buttoned. When I wear mine with odd jackets the waistcoat shows very slightly. Doesn't both me at all. Besides, when you have a waistcoat on, I think you can me much more cavalier about unbuttoning your jacket.

 

[dukeaw]

I agree, a fine choice!

As for the waistcoat showing, it's okay if it peeks slightly above the button point of the jacket when the jacket is buttoned. When I wear mine with odd jackets the waistcoat shows very slightly. Doesn't both me at all. Besides, when you have a waistcoat on, I think you can me much more cavalier about unbuttoning your jacket.

Thanks. I know you've posted a lot of pics over the years of your black tie. Do you have any that you can share showing your ensemble with a waistcoat for context?

 

[Faux Brummell]

This fellow can’t compare to Andy but here’s one example.
Edited to add: At second glance his waistcoat doesn’t seem to have lapels. But the jacket would cover most of the lapel anyway.

 

[Andy57]

Thanks. I know you've posted a lot of pics over the years of your black tie. Do you have any that you can share showing your ensemble with a waistcoat for context?

Here's my black, peak lapel jacket and with waistcoat:

 

[Butler]

 

[NakedYoga]

Here's my black, peak lapel jacket and with waistcoat:
View attachment 1583213
View attachment 1583215

I do appreciate and enjoy your other interesting and more unusual black tie rigs that you post here, but this is just impeccable. Elegance defined.