The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Nobilis Animus]

@Andy57, I like how that jacket collar stays put in the above photo. Velcro?(haha).

The velcro of decent tailoring!

 

[Andy57]

The velcro of decent tailoring!

Just so.

 

[NakedYoga]

Brought my Casablanca jacket out on a nice, light evening:
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Very nice. What's the jacket material? And is that a Santos on your wrist?

 

[Andy57]

Very nice. What's the jacket material? And is that a Santos on your wrist?

The cloth is a wool barathea from the Holland & Sherry formal collection. This particular watch is my Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.

 

[savvysartorial]

most of the measurements you will find on ebay are finished garment measurements. personally, i think its best to compare like to like, so i would suggest taking your best fitting suit and coming up with some simple measurements (and adjusting as necessary) rather than getting body measurements from a tailor - while jacket is buttoned, lying flat take a tape measure and get shoulders, chest, waist, sleeve length, jacket length (proper cloth has a pretty description with images for reference)



for a timeless look, most people recommend having a lapel that covers halfway the distance to your shoulder. for a frame of reference, i am a 46R and my tux peak i think is ~4 inches wide, and my notch suit jackets are 3.5-3.75 inches wide

Thanks for the link. That's an excellent guide. Measure my current suit and then find an eBay one I like that matches my "wanted" measurements. A tailor can finagle the rest I suppose.


Good information about the lapel width. In this case with a shawl collar, that still works?

As @classicalthunde suggested above, I would measure the best-fitting garment you have, and then adjust on the basis of how would like it to fit (if it's not perfect), or finding something with the same measurements. It's useful to know your own body measurements as well, but that's more important for other purposes like waist size on trousers, etc.

As for the wiggle room question, that really depends on the metric. How big is a 40L today? I'm assuming it's something like 2 inches oversized in the chest (so 22") or something like that. But what's probably more important is how you're putting on muscle, since shoulders may change faster than chest size.

I'll say that if you're not very big now and planning to bulk up, don't spend too much money on anything for your first purchase. Maybe try to find something interesting and high quality, but perhaps not Tom Ford prices if you'll grow out of it in 6 months time.

Thank you for the write up. I'll go about doing that and trying to search for something in that size range.

Yes, that sounds about right. Shoulders would probably grow quickly and my chest likely won't change a ton since I am so tall.

Sound advice! Not sure what brand to start with... Vintage Brooks Brothers or just drill down to 40L tux sizes and try and find a waist ~32'' and inseam of ~34'' and then go from there? Ideally, a hundred bucks for a tux would be sweet and then I can spend a bit to alter. Not sure if this is realistic or not!

 

[classicalthunde]

that matches my "wanted" measurements. A tailor can finagle the rest I suppose.

shoulders are very tough/expensive to tailor...so you should probably make sure the shoulder width is in the ball park from the get go, a good tailor can handle the rest within reason

In this case with a shawl collar, that still works?

I love the look of shawls, but don’t have any experience with them specifically. first guess is that I don’t think it would be the same since they don’t follow the same width pattern as a notch or peak (widest by the shoulder)...just pick something that looks visually good to you. Unless you’re super skinny and tall, I’d avoid skinny lapels in general

 

[savvysartorial]

I may wear this suit all week.

I think a different shirt and/or square would have been better. I tried a bunch of squares and settled for this one that matched the purple in the shirt.

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My goodness, man. Every piece that hangs from those shoulders just looks killer.

Do you shop on eBay for suits and then have a skilled tailor do the rest?

shoulders are very tough/expensive to tailor...so you should probably make sure the shoulder width is in the ball park, a good tailor can handle the rest




I love the look of shawls, but don’t have any experience. I don’t think it would be the same since they don’t follow thesame width pattern as a notch or peak (widest by the shoulder)...just pick something that looks visually good to you. Unless you’re super skinny and tall, I’d avoid skinny lapels in general

Yes, I can make sure the shoulders are bang on.


Shawls have made me drool for years. They seem less subject to the whims of skinny/wide than do traditional lapels. The exception being the shawl that was posted from eBay a few pages back which looked really vintage/cool.

I am super skinny and tall, but the skinny lapels are my least favorite item. They make people look like geeks (personal opinion) and I avoid like the plague.

 

[An Acute Style]

My goodness, man. Every piece that hangs from those shoulders just looks killer.

Do you shop on eBay for suits and then have a skilled tailor do the rest?

Wrong thread? Thanks. I always ask for measurements when I buy on eBay. I only buy the stuff I know will fit well. My tailor only lengthens my sleeves and sometimes takes the waist in or out. Vintage pieces always have beautiful natural shoulders. Such a pleasure.

 

[Lensmaster]

Good information about the lapel width. In this case with a shawl collar, that still works?

It doesn't directly correspond with a shawl collar. I think they look best when the lapel gets a bit wider towards the bottom, think of Bogart's dinner jacket in Casablanca. If the wide part then is about the same dimension as if it was at the shoulder it seems to look balanced.

 

[savvysartorial]

It doesn't directly correspond with a shawl collar. I think they look best when the lapel gets a bit wider towards the bottom, think of Bogart's dinner jacket in Casablanca. If the wide part then is about the same dimension as if it was at the shoulder it seems to look balanced.

Got it. Thank you so much.

Fantastic movie and a great outfit example.

 

[Andy57]

Another formal Friday.

 

[driving glove]

Here's to many more, and that's my "Last Word" on cocktails.

 

[wilcthree]

Another formal Friday.
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Classique! Well done.

 

[Veremund]

Brought my Casablanca jacket out on a nice, light evening:
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My all-time favorite movie line is from Casablanca. ❤️

 

[Andy57]

My all-time favorite movie line is from Casablanca. ❤

Which line is that? So many quotable lines in that movie!