The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

While we're thinking of shawl lapels (of the 50s/60s variety, not Victorian/Edwardian), does anyone wear a waistcoat with SB? Or is that always given to a cummerbund?

I sometimes wear a waistcoat with both my dark green velvet jacket and also with my midnight blue mohair. I also wear a cummerbund, though, in warmer weather.

 

[dan'l]

While we're thinking of shawl lapels (of the 50s/60s variety, not Victorian/Edwardian), does anyone wear a waistcoat with SB? Or is that always given to a cummerbund?

I have a SB shawl lapel and had a DB shawl lapel waistcoat made to go along with it. I‘m not really a fan of the cummerbund-look, but I suppose it has it‘s place (like in warmer weather, as Andy wrote above).

 

[The Chai]

Bootay for Black tie...

P.S. I prefer cummerbunds for SB shawls...

 

[martingfx]

I believe no one here needs bowties but if you do, Drake's archives sale have them for 15 quid each.

Got mine in the mail today, much better than my last one! I also just picked up my dinner jacket from my tailor, had him remove the shoulder padding making it a bit more contemporary/relaxed.

 

[Zerase]

Got mine in the mail today, much better than my last one! I also just picked up my dinner jacket from my tailor, had him remove the shoulder padding making it a bit more contemporary/relaxed.
View attachment 1504429

Also got mine and they are indeed lovely. Not really worth the full retail price but for this price they are a steal. My old black silk bow tie from the Swedish Armes forces will probably retire, or at least have much less work to do.

 

[Nick Charles]

I think a cummerbund is most common with a shawl collar, but a waist coat with a shawl style collar would look good.

I think the cummerbund is an important part of the Dinner jacket look. It covers the waistband and makes the legs look longer. For those who say they just never unbutton their jacket, it also avoids the possibility of the triangle of white shirt showing between jacket and pants.

I added the cummerbund to my SB kit because I found that realistically, I couldn’t always keep my jacket buttoned at events and thus wanted to have something there to keep the formal look.

 

[The Chai]

I added the cummerbund to my SB kit because I found that realistically, I couldn’t always keep my jacket buttoned at events and thus wanted to have something there to keep the formal look.

I pretty much only ever button my jacket if I’m getting photos taken

 

[gimpwiz]

Was invited to a wedding earlier this year (canceled due to covid) that specified black tie. Asked around (because rented tuxes suck and I didn't want to soend $$$$ on a tux). None of the family was planning to wear a tux at all, as far as I know. Black suit maybe, or a suit because it's "good enough." I didn't like this and reached out to the bride and she said she expected most men to wear suits, not a tux. I wondered why the hell she put "black tie" on the wedding invite. Perhaps just a method to make sure nobody showed up in shorts and flipflops? Dunno. SF bay area is casual, to the point that at least nine none of the family intended to follow black tie 'rules', but then not so casual people needed to be cajoled and compromised with to wear a suit. Shrug.

Edit: Nine -> None. Changes the meaning

 

[classicalthunde]

I always call around and check (bride/groom and friends/family who till be in attendance) regardless of whether the invite specifies black tie or black tie optional. I've been to daytime weddings specified black tie optional on the invite before, so I don't always trust that people understand the rules or expectation.

In this day in age, and depending on your social circle or region, I would expect the vast majority of attendants to be in a suit unless the wedding invite went specifically out of its way to say black tie required. Personally, I look at the rules like so: black tie required = wear it or dont come, black tie = please wear it if you have one/can rent one, black tie optional = wear it if you feel like it

 

[Nick Charles]

I pretty much only ever button my jacket if I’m getting photos taken

Funny enough, that was when I would have problems. In group photos, when I stretch my arms out around people on either side it pulls up the front of the buttoned SB shawl jacket so as to look a little silly. With the cummerbund on I feel it makes it okay for me to unbutton at those moments. A little overthinking it all, I’m sure, but if I’m going to go formal, then want to do it right.

 

[The Chai]

Funny enough, that was when I would have problems. In group photos, when I stretch my arms out around people on either side it pulls up the front of the buttoned SB shawl jacket so as to look a little silly. With the cummerbund on I feel it makes it okay for me to unbutton at those moments. A little overthinking it all, I’m sure, but if I’m going to go formal, then want to do it right.

I feel your pain. Case in point here. Looks like I have an ill fitting dj whereas it looks like my buddy has the bespoke suit (when it’s an otr last minute op shop purchase)

 

[The Chai]

Slight alterations and full press and it will be good to go for the weekend!

 

[dan'l]

^ Nice! What cloth is that? Looks like silk, but not the herringbone one from Ed.

 

[upr_crust]

This evening, I will be experiencing my first Zoom party, hosted by the Frick Collection in appreciation of its members, of which I am one. The invitation said "Festive Attire Encouraged", which, with this year's dearth of parties, was like waving a red cape at a bull, at least for me, hence the pile of glad rags assembled for today.

Prior to getting attired for this evening festivities, I made good use of a snow shower-y afternoon in NYC, and sorted through my sports jackets and odd trousers, sorting out those to be donated to charity - a photo is included below.

I've included a photo of the chest of drawers in front of which I photograph myself, as some of you have expressed an interest in seeing the chest without me getting in the way. It's also been decorated for the season - the glowing bit in the middle is a Simon Pearce glass tree, wrapped in tiny lights on copper wires.

I've also included a photo of me toasting you all for the season.

Jacket - Saks Fifth Avenue house brand
Shirt and pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Cummerbund and tie - Paul Stuart
Braces - New & Lingwood
Stud set - Deakin & Francis, London
Tuxedo trousers - Ede & Ravenscroft
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue

Spoiler

 

[The Chai]

^ Nice! What cloth is that? Looks like silk, but not the herringbone one from Ed.

It is Ed’s herringbone silk indeed. The camera doesn’t really capture the color well which as we both know is deeper. It’s with midnight shantung lapels