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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

The Chai

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The shawl collar looks phantastic, very good proportions.
For a made to measure it fits better than my bespoke. Not to mention plenty of customization options. Me and the tailor designed the shawl shape
 
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Thin White Duke

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Any way you look at it, those collars have to be brutally uncomfortable.
Haha my thoughts exactly. Reverence for the past is all well and good, right up to the point of extreme discomfort. I think I’m breaking out into a rash just looking at those pics!

Can you imagine Mitch McConnell in one of those with his turkey wattle spilling out all over his shirt front?
 

The Chai

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Lapels look beefier with the jacket unbuttoned. Re ski mask Im very blessed to be living in the part of the world where there are zero restrictions as the state has had no covid cases for three months. Nightlife here barring very few restrictions is back to normal. I thought I’d include an after action report. The dinner jacket feels great and comfortable bar one thing. I have high waisted trousers but the fly opening for some reason is smaller than all the other stuff I’ve had made...which makes taking a piss a challenge...

p.s. the only thing nattier than shantung lapels are shantung turn back cuffs
EAA3DA79-BD5F-446E-AD54-3A0EEFB8CADD.jpeg
 

The Chai

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Haha my thoughts exactly. Reverence for the past is all well and good, right up to the point of extreme discomfort. I think I’m breaking out into a rash just looking at those pics!

Can you imagine Mitch McConnell in one of those with his turkey wattle spilling out all over his shirt front?
I’ve had a vintage imperial collar shirt. Only worn it once...it’s in the not in use but can’t bear to throw away clothing case
 

Mark from Plano

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I have a detachable collar formal shirt that I wear from time to time. Properly sized I don’t find them any less comfortable to wear. They are somewhat more difficult to put on however...unless you have a valet, I suppose...which I don’t.

I only wear mine to the most formal of events and then only in a single configuration: Peak lapel dinner jacket with a white cotton waist coat. Sort of a modified white tie configuration. I buy my collars very tall and the look is quite imposing.

Id say I only wear it to one out of every ten black tie events though as it just comes off as too formal in most situations.
 

The Chai

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I have a detachable collar formal shirt that I wear from time to time. Properly sized I don’t find them any less comfortable to wear. They are somewhat more difficult to put on however...unless you have a valet, I suppose...which I don’t.

I only wear mine to the most formal of events and then only in a single configuration: Peak lapel dinner jacket with a white cotton waist coat. Sort of a modified white tie configuration. I buy my collars very tall and the look is quite imposing.

Id say I only wear it to one out of every ten black tie events though as it just comes off as too formal in most situations.
Or just plain obsolete/costumey and anachronistic...probably would only wear it to a strictly 20s themed or a proper formal ball but I would probably default to a turndown...

I walked into a bar with my above outfit and someone thought I came from a funeral
 

Andy57

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I have a detachable collar formal shirt that I wear from time to time. Properly sized I don’t find them any less comfortable to wear. They are somewhat more difficult to put on however...unless you have a valet, I suppose...which I don’t.
But is it this very high, straight, Imperial collar? I've worn a stiff wing collar, which, while not exactly comfortable, isn't terribly uncomfortable. But these Imperial collars are another thing altogether, I imagine.
 

Mark from Plano

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But is it this very high, straight, Imperial collar? I've worn a stiff wing collar, which, while not exactly comfortable, isn't terribly uncomfortable. But these Imperial collars are another thing altogether, I imagine.

Perhaps not quite, but I do buy rather tall ones because I like the imposing look. Go big or go home. ?

I usually buy the “Grafton” collars from Ede & Ravenscroft here:

 

lordsuperb

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Lapels look beefier with the jacket unbuttoned. Re ski mask Im very blessed to be living in the part of the world where there are zero restrictions as the state has had no covid cases for three months. Nightlife here barring very few restrictions is back to normal. I thought I’d include an after action report. The dinner jacket feels great and comfortable bar one thing. I have high waisted trousers but the fly opening for some reason is smaller than all the other stuff I’ve had made...which makes taking a piss a challenge...

p.s. the only thing nattier than shantung lapels are shantung turn back cuffs View attachment 1418235

Why are the sleeves wrinkled, is this mohair?
 

The Chai

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Why are the sleeves wrinkled, is this mohair?
It is the Bateman Ogden Mohair Barathea. The wrinkles on the sleeves are over-exaggerated by the lighting. There are very slight wrinkles but I have been doing some heavy boogeying as usual...dance for roughly 5-6 hours and you are bound to get some sleeve wrinkles.
 

Concordia

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Random question: does anyone still use the waistcoat buttons from the old dress sets? I can see how they make sense if you are using a white waistcoat. But you’d have to stick to the abalone or darker models to have it work with black barathea or silk
 

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