The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Mark from Plano]

Is that the LP cashmere/silk blend line? If so I had it made up into a SB, 1-button with self-faced peak lapels that does double duty as a dinner jacket and a more casual cocktail jacket.

Here it is with black tie:

 

[Thin White Duke]

Centre vent absolutely ruins that TF for me. I mean why? It’s an adjustment purely for adjustment’s sake and adds nothing to the final look. I don’t like the two button front either but I suppose it’s not entirely an outrage but adding eh centre vent to that is a bridge too far.
Those Dunhill pics look great to me. Slim but not skinny lapels is my kinda territory

 

[The Chai]

Is that the LP cashmere/silk blend line? If so I had it made up into a SB, 1-button with self-faced peak lapels that does double duty as a dinner jacket and a more casual cocktail jacket.

Here it is with black tie:

View attachment 1343221

I suspect it is the cashmere silk blend though I don’t actually know as there is no selvedge and I can’t find any information of the reference number. I do suspect it’s the silk blend because it feels crunchy and crisp like silk and yet soft

 

[The Chai]

Al

Is that the LP cashmere/silk blend line? If so I had it made up into a SB, 1-button with self-faced peak lapels that does double duty as a dinner jacket and a more casual cocktail jacket.

Here it is with black tie:

View attachment 1343221

also
Is that a spalla camicia shoulder?

 

[The Chai]

Centre vent absolutely ruins that TF for me. I mean why? It’s an adjustment purely for adjustment’s sake and adds nothing to the final look. I don’t like the two button front either but I suppose it’s not entirely an outrage but adding eh centre vent to that is a bridge too far.
Those Dunhill pics look great to me. Slim but not skinny lapels is my kinda territory

Yeah agreed. As I said it’s an inspiration but the 2b and centre vent ruins it...looks really great from afar

 

[Mark from Plano]

Al

also
Is that a spalla camicia shoulder?

Yes. Joe Hemrajani made this up for me, so I suppose it’s a Hong Kong interpretation of SC. ?

But yes, we did it in SC.

 

[The Chai]

Yes. Joe Hemrajani made this up for me, so I suppose it’s a Hong Kong interpretation of SC. ?

But yes, we did it in SC.

Yeah this configuration is my first preference as I’m a big fan of the sbpl and I have enough proper dj to get something of a mutt dj

 

[Faux Brummell]

Saw an ad for these this morning. Any takers?

View attachment 1343290 View attachment 1343290 View attachment 1343290

View attachment 1343290

 

[Faux Brummell]

(Sorry for the repeated images, can’t seem to fix it properly.)

 

[UrbanComposition]

I saw that over the weekend. Would absolutely wear that to a daytime party.

 

[Thin White Duke]

It’s one of those “if you already have a canonical black tie rig and feel like stepping out for a less than ultra formal occasion” type jackets. Something akin to Andy’s scarlet red silk number. I have no idea what occasion on my social calendar would merit a jacket like that but it looks great!

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Possibly gonna be turned into either a sbpl, db or sb shawl dj...haven’t decided yet

I have a jacket-length of LP Summertime wool-silk-linen in cream, similar to yours, but is super lightweight at 240g:

Planning to make it into a 4 on 1 DB dinner jacket, appropriate to the tropical Hong Kong where I live.

I am currently leaning towards shawl collars (a la Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, as well as Apparel Art illustrations of the Golden Era, or Ethan M Wong):

But am also tempted by the peak lapel iteration so it becomes an alternative sport coat (a la Buzz Tang below):

This 'alternative sport coat' seems to be a practical approach, especially since my LP wool-silk-linen blend is way less slubby (and hence less stylised) and more durable than, say, LP Mare made of pure silk courtesy of Saman Amel (below)

Opinions, chaps? Love to hear your use case / reasoning as much as your verdict.

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

 

[The Chai]

I have a jacket-length of LP Summertime wool-silk-linen in cream, similar to yours, but is super lightweight at 240g:
View attachment 1343795

Planning to make it into a 4 on 1 DB dinner jacket, appropriate to the tropical Hong Kong where I live.

I am currently leaning towards shawl collars (a la Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca), but also tempted by the peak lapel iteration so it becomes an alternative sport coat - particularly since this blend is way less slubby than LP Mare made from pure silk (thereby less stylised).

Opinions, chaps?

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

If you go 4x1 I suggest the shawl. 4x1 peak imo is notoriously hard to get right...you could use the 6x2 or sbpl as a sports coat too

 

[Royal_Airforce]

If you go 4x1 I suggest the shawl. 4x1 peak imo is notoriously hard to get right...you could use the 6x2 or sbpl as a sports coat too

Agreed on the low odds to get 4 on 1 peak right.

Have seen one or two WW Chan works which are very satisfying though: Lower gorge flow down to wide lapels that have more-or-less horizontal peaks, minimum to no belly, stopping at the lower row of buttons aligned to the jetted pockets.

 

[The Chai]

Th

Agreed on the low odds to get 4 on 1 peak right.

Have seen one or two WW Chan works which are very satisfying though: Lower gorge flow down to wide lapels that have more-or-less horizontal peaks, minimum to no belly, stopping at the lower row of buttons aligned to the jetted pockets.

View attachment 1343817

the 4x1 peak is a funny animal for me. I have tried three times bespoke times get one and always ended throwing them out. They really look good on a mannequin but rarely on a person. Put one side by side a 6x2 with the exception of a 4x1 shawl and id pick the 6x2 any day