The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[benjamin831]

Came out well! British shirtmakers would not be happy with the studs though. The code now is 3 for black tie, 2 for white. Personally, I don’t see a reason to be fussy about that, unless you really want black tie to be semi-formal and not a huge “dressing up” kind of thing.
Also, is that a suit or different jacket and trousers?

Thank you! I based my shirt on what I saw from 1930s Apparel Arts illustrations which often show shirts sporting 2 studs for black tie. In fact I see 2 stud configurations more than I do 3 in pictures from the 30s. Jacket and trousers are a set, might've been just the light or angle.

 

[AdductorMagnus]

View attachment 1322666

I was confused for a few seconds, then I noticed there's also someone wearing black tie in the picture.

 

[NorwRichard]

I hooked my brother up with a great bespoke Alan Flusser find from ebay. Great spending other peoples money. So with a suitsupply shirt and LNP bowtie he looked quite happy.

 

[benjamin831]

Might commission my first tropical dinner jacket. Thinking about making it in a dark cream or light tan like below. Can anybody recommend a fabric? Is it usually made up in linen, silk, or wool?

 

[classicalthunde]

Might commission my first tropical dinner jacket. Thinking about making it in a dark cream or light tan like below. Can anybody recommend a fabric? Is it usually made up in linen, silk, or wool?

I think @Andy57 had one like that made up recently...

edit: just looked back, its Dormeuil "Ceremonial" cloth

 

[Andy57]

Might commission my first tropical dinner jacket. Thinking about making it in a dark cream or light tan like below. Can anybody recommend a fabric? Is it usually made up in linen, silk, or wool?

This illustration was one of the inspirations for my own "Burma" dinner jacket. ?

I think @Andy57 had one like that made up recently...

edit: just looked back, its Dormeuil "Ceremonial" cloth

It is indeed Dormeuil Ceremonial. This cloth is 90% wool, 10% silk and drapes beautifully. In addition, it travels well. It resists wrinkles quite well, and a couple of hours on a hanger has the jacket looking pretty fresh and presentable. I've been very pleased with it.

 

[Faux Brummell]

I could have sworn I once saw a comment in this thread about a Laurence Fellows illustration that included a blue evening shirt but I can’t find it. Am I remembering wrong? Were colored shirts ever worn with black tie before the 60s?

 

[Andy57]

I could have sworn I once saw a comment in this thread about a Laurence Fellows illustration that included a blue evening shirt but I can’t find it. Am I remembering wrong? Were colored shirts ever worn with black tie before the 60s?

I can't find a Fellows illustration with a blue evening shirt, either. Off-white shirts go back quite a long way, especially in silk.

 

[JJ Katz]

This illustration was one of the inspirations for my own "Burma" dinner jacket. ?

It is indeed Dormeuil Ceremonial. This cloth is 90% wool, 10% silk and drapes beautifully. In addition, it travels well. It resists wrinkles quite well, and a couple of hours on a hanger has the jacket looking pretty fresh and presentable. I've been very pleased with it.

View attachment 1327682

Self-faced lapel, right?

 

[Andy57]

Self-faced lapel, right?

Yes. I think it looks better on these lighter fabrics.

 

[JJ Katz]

Yes. I think it looks better on these lighter fabrics.

makes sense, plus wherewould one even source tan grosgrain??

 

[The Chai]

B and j fabrics

makes sense, plus wherewould one even source tan grosgrain??

 

[ababac]

I could have sworn I once saw a comment in this thread about a Laurence Fellows illustration that included a blue evening shirt but I can’t find it. Am I remembering wrong? Were colored shirts ever worn with black tie before the 60s?

this rings a bell.

was it perhaps on the old black tie guide website?

i'll have a look when i'm at home, i did save a lot of images.

 

[Faux Brummell]

Thanks. I don’t think it was on the BTG, I feel like it was on a message board where someone posted it and referenced someone in a blue shirt. (But ultimately my question is whether or not a blue shirt would have ever been worn with a dinner jacket back in the Fellows era, which doesn’t seem to be documented anywhere else.)

P.S. Glad I’m not the only one who loved the images from the Black Tie Guide.

this rings a bell.

was it perhaps on the old black tie guide website?

i'll have a look when i'm at home, i did save a lot of images.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Thanks. I don’t think it was on the BTG, I feel like it was on a message board where someone posted it and referenced someone in a blue shirt. (But ultimately my question is whether or not a blue shirt would have ever been worn with a dinner jacket back in the Fellows era, which doesn’t seem to be documented anywhere else.)

P.S. Glad I’m not the only one who loved the images from the Black Tie Guide.

Yeah what a tragedy it’s been taken over by GG. Almost unreadable now with the ridiculous pop ups.