Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.
A bit. Here's my vintage Kremintz black MOP formal set on a vintage Marshall Fields waistcoat I found at an antique store.
I thought the waistcoat (which is mint) was a steal at $36, but it's cut for the high-waisted trousers that prevailed before WWII and is too short to cover the waist of my trousers. I had to custom order a waistcoat from Favourbrook to use the studs. I'm happy with the result (if not the only photo I have):
It may be hard to discern in the photo above, but the jacket is a SB PL with grosgrain facings. As I was determined to wear a waistcoat and unwilling to dump $450 on the RL PL model in grosgrain (the only one I have been able to find in that material), I reconciled myself to the idea of wearing a tie and waistcoat that did not match the lapel facings. It's (still) hard to tell in the photo, but the tie and waistcoat are of a fine-ribbed black moire silk that is deeper/darker/"blacker" than the tux or its facings. I think the only rule is that the tie must match the waist covering, but I think any patterned silk is preferable to satin if you're wearing grosgrain lapels.
I'm not crazy about this particular pattern, either, but it's a welcome option at $175. There are exceedingly few options for traditionally-styled black waistcoats, and I ultimately spent over $300 on the one pictured above. The entire Gatsby line from BB is incredible, although little of it is as reasonably priced as this.
Dior Homme party Beijing.
1970s Brioni, Budd shirt, Cartier studs.
Is the Budd silk or cotton?
Cotton voile with a hand embroidered front.
Very sharp. The fact that nearly everyone in the background (excluding the balcony) is looking at the camera lends the whole shot a surreal aesthetic, as well.
Acres of champagne.
Somebody find that Phat Guido pic at Shanghai Pudong airport.
Is this truely how far we have fallen?
Holy crap--how did I miss the return of LabelKing?
As well as on encouraging (rather than discouraging) the groomsmen to procure their own tuxes (as in buy one that suits them but is within your prescribed dress code)!
This is why I don't trust official brand "style guides" any more than their salepeople on the floor. If you stock a skinny notch-lapel flap-pocket tuxedo jacket you're going to try to sell it to me for my wedding. Sugarbutch, your sig is more relevant than ever.
How unfortunate that Mr. Porter didn't have dinner jackets in the model's size (or length). Sigh.
The gala dinner for the Dutch coronation:
I like Prince Felipe of Spain dinner ensemble best but for the vest not being low enough. Also Prince Daniel of Sweden use to get his bespoke garments in Naples, but not sure this is.
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