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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    I think the vest retails at $175.
     
  2. StephenB

    StephenB Senior member

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    Firstly Nine, nice kit.

    Second, would a white dinner jacket with midnight blue trousers look off/silly? Probably not IRL but maybe in photos is what I'm thinking.
     
  3. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    I think that would be fine. The issue would be the waistcoat in my opinion, but in the case of a white (hopefully cream) dinner jacket, I would assume the setting would be considered.

    In that regard, I would probably opt for a double breasted shawl collar and forgo the waist covering. I am not sure what kind of silk I would wear in the pocket. I would think white linen would offer too little contrast, and cream is out. This could be tough to accessorize. I think you could tastefully do it with something like a lapis lazuli stud set, and maybe a navy or midnight square with a polka dot. Hell, maybe even a deep burgundy or purple square. The cream jacket, and DB in particular is slightly less rigid, so I think that could work
     
  4. StephenB

    StephenB Senior member

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    Since I'm going with a white dinner jacket I'll go with a cummerbund. But that opens up another problem I hadn't thought about because I have a midnight blue tuxedo w/ waistcoat but no matching cummerbund.
     
  5. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    Stephen, do you plan for the jacket to be single breasted? If so, with a white jacket, more options are available, just keep the bow black, or midnight. A maroon cummerbund is tasteful and has precedent. I think that would look great.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    Quote:A Burgundy silk square works well with a cream dinner jacket. As for waist covering, a black cummerbund that matches what is presumably black silk on the trousers should work well.
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    No reason that midnight cannot be worn with the white DJ; have at it.

    Full disclosure, I'm a waistcoat fanatic, but I like the look of a waistcoat under a white DJ. Do you have the jacket? Why not post some pics? If it is a proper evening waistcoat, most of the time its lapels/edges are unseen, but you just get a pop of them from time to time when you move in a certain way. I quite like it.

    Cummerbunds are to match the facings, not the cloth, so as a previous repsonse said, so no panic over matching it to the midnight of your suit. If you do a maroon/burgundy cummerbund, I would stick to a black or midnight PS. Personally, I'd do black. The suggestion of midnight with polka dots or some other subtle pattern is a close second, in my opinion. Matching your PS to cummerbund smacks a little too much of high school prom. A black bow tie would still be de rigeur, as with the midnight blue dinner suit, I should think.
     
  8. StephenB

    StephenB Senior member

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    Haven't purchased the white DJ yet. Its mainly for my wedding in May in Anguilla so I have time. I'l also in Miami a lot so I'm hoping I have a couple occasions for a white DJ there.

    I've been slowly looking for an off white SB shawl DJ but not having a ton of luck. Once I pick it up I'll just try it with the waist coat. My thinking is if its unbuttoned there might be too much black (well midnight blue) in the center of my torso with white around it.
     
  9. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    I agree with not matching the square and cummerbund. With a maroon cummerbund, I would even consider something like this...

    http://www.samhober.com/thai-brocade-silk-pocket-squares-en/thai-brocade-silk-pocket-square-16.html

    Or this..

    http://www.samhober.com/thai-shot-silk-pocket-squares/natural-white-thai-silk-pocket-square-43.html

    I think the subtle pattern alleviates some of the issue of it being close in color to the jacket, and adds interest without being distracting. Personally, I would not wear a waistcoat with a shawl collar, only a cummerbund, and if I was doing cream for the jacket with midnight trousers, I would not do black. I would think it would be hard to find a midnight cummerbund close enough to the trousers to avoid having it look a little off, unless you had it made. Even then, I think I would prefer maroon, and in that case, I would choose one of the silk squares above.

    I maintain that the best option here, IMO is to get a DB jacket and skip the cummerbund, especially in the climate where you will be using it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  10. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    That is a fair concern, but solved by a cummerbund if you don't like the look. What's your budget?
     
  11. StephenB

    StephenB Senior member

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    On just the jacket, approximately $500. Looking for something more of an Ivory color more than cream.
     
  12. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    You could probably find a good MtM option for that price if you shop around to different tailors, depending where you live.
     
  13. J011yroger

    J011yroger Senior member

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    Well done Sir!

    J
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  14. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Cross-Posted from a thread I just started - not completely on-topic here, but thought this brain trust might have some insights.

     
  16. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    @ StephenB - look to the opening scene from Goldfinger for inspiration - an ecru DJ one button single breasted with peek lapels. Midnight trousers. I think he has no pocket square but a dark red carnation buttonhole. You could go with dark red PS instead. As a white DJ is for summer / tropical wear, it totally defeats the purpose to wear a waistcoat IMO and I believe that's how cummerbunds came into use, in the days of the raj when wearing a waistcoat was too hot so a sash around the waist, already part of some military ceremonial garb, came into play. So I say cummerbund or nothing a la Connery.

    @ I'mThe Groom, treat your shirt like any others. Store it in cleaners plastic if you want to keep it from getting dusty. Wash it and iron it yourself, dont use starch as that will yellow it over time. Silk hose are IMO an effeminate abomination that will never touch my feet so I can't help you there!
     
  17. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Yup. Text book black tie. Rumors of its demise are premature!
     
  18. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :rolleyes:
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. WICaniac

    WICaniac Senior member

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    I, on the other hand, have no issues with my gender identity or sexuality and can recommend that you machine wash them on delicate and line dry them.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Shirt: if was sold starched or starched at some point it will need to be boiled and/or 90degree Celsius machine wash (hottest setting on most European front loading washing machines) and the re-starched, obviously srinkage will be an issue:

    Silk hose: as for all machine washable animal fibres (wool, cashmere, silk etc) it is imperative that you use a no-bio detergent for delicates. Other then specialist ones, big FMCG like Uniliver and P&G will have an appropriate product in your country within the relevant country brand. Always use a delicate cycle and line dry. Same should be done for merino and/or wool socks.
     

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