The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Gerry65]

The weather in NYC this morning is cold and clear, but yesterday, was a mild monsoon - a near-constant rain, lasting well into the evening, an annoyance, as I had a party at the Morgan Library to attend, the dress code for which was black tie. I went one step further, breaking out my white tie ensemble for the occasion, as it's not seen the light of day in almost two years, and, essentially, just because I could. As underfoot was wet, and I expected to be standing for some three hours, I opted for patent leather lace-ups instead of opera pumps, as I needed the increased support to make it through the evening without foot pain.

To date, I do not have a top hat (the most correct form of headgear for white tie), but made do with a Homburg, as shown. As my coat and hat came off immediately upon arrival, no one noticed.

I've included a couple of photos from the event itself, to give some sense of the ambience of the party.

Attire:

White tie ensemble (jacket, trousers, waistcoat, tie) - Ede & Ravenscroft
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Stud set - The Persian Shop, NYC
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue
Overcoat & scarf - Turnbull & Asser
Hat - Lock, London

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Love everything about your ensrmble.
The studs,links,and especially the nonchalant angle of the tie!Bravo!

 

[The Chai]

VERY close quarters on the jacket. But otherwise very nice. And a well proportioned bow tie.

Yeah I am not a fan of open quarters.

 

[Concordia]

That is how customers of Kilgour and Henry Poole signal their wealth. It indicates that they can afford to have a valet to hold open the jacket those critical inches while they pee.

 

[Mute]

The weather in NYC this morning is cold and clear, but yesterday, was a mild monsoon - a near-constant rain, lasting well into the evening, an annoyance, as I had a party at the Morgan Library to attend, the dress code for which was black tie. I went one step further, breaking out my white tie ensemble for the occasion, as it's not seen the light of day in almost two years, and, essentially, just because I could. As underfoot was wet, and I expected to be standing for some three hours, I opted for patent leather lace-ups instead of opera pumps, as I needed the increased support to make it through the evening without foot pain.

To date, I do not have a top hat (the most correct form of headgear for white tie), but made do with a Homburg, as shown. As my coat and hat came off immediately upon arrival, no one noticed.

I've included a couple of photos from the event itself, to give some sense of the ambience of the party.

Attire:

White tie ensemble (jacket, trousers, waistcoat, tie) - Ede & Ravenscroft
Pocket square - Brooks Brothers
Stud set - The Persian Shop, NYC
Shoes - Magnanni for Saks Fifth Avenue
Overcoat & scarf - Turnbull & Asser
Hat - Lock, London

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Love that stud set.

 

[upr_crust]

Love that stud set.

I had the studs made to match the cufflinks, which I had bought from the same jeweler who made the studs some four years prior.

 

[hpreston]

That is how customers of Kilgour and Henry Poole signal their wealth. It indicates that they can afford to have a valet to hold open the jacket those critical inches while they pee.

Wait for the shake!

 

[The Chai]

Wait till you see the car i drive...

Though now you mention it i do have this problem...even when the jacket is unbuttoned

That is how customers of Kilgour and Henry Poole signal their wealth. It indicates that they can afford to have a valet to hold open the jacket those critical inches while they pee.

 

[Concordia]

Wait for the shake!

It’s good to be the King.

 

[hbk320]

Show me your black tie ensembles!
Below is my alternative black tie ensemble tonight.
Butterfly bow tie.
Shirt with front bib and vintage 60s thick solid MoP button.
Red non-blacktie waistcoat.
Dress Stewart tartan continuous fishtail trousers.
Vintage 80s black barathea 4x1 dinner jacket. I spent a good 3 hours adjusting the waist and hip shape to my liking because it came to me without any shape or suppression.
I wear cuff links about 2-3 times per year and they are all black tie ensemble

 

[Mark from Plano]

Gatsby party at my country club. Or, when you can dress fully period straight out of your closet.

 

[The Chai]

Gatsby party at my country club. Or, when you can dress fully period straight out of your closet. View attachment 2303077 View attachment 2303079

I have always loved period black tie as a way to vary things out!

 

[Faux Brummell]

Show me your black tie ensembles!
Below is my alternative black tie ensemble tonight.
Butterfly bow tie.
Shirt with front bib and vintage 60s thick solid MoP button.
Red non-blacktie waistcoat.
Dress Stewart tartan continuous fishtail trousers.
Vintage 80s black barathea 4x1 dinner jacket. I spent a good 3 hours adjusting the waist and hip shape to my liking because it came to me without any shape or suppression.
I wear cuff links about 2-3 times per year and they are all black tie ensemble
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Great trousers - I have a dinner jacket in that same tartan. 🙂🙂

 

[SpallaPerfetta]

Going to see my tailor next week to plan a dark blue/midnight tux for my wedding. I want something that will look snazzy on the big day but also versatile enough that I can hopefully use it for black tie events for many years to come. I’m really inspired by this post this Steven Hitchcock post. I love the turn up cuffs - what do you think? I’m thinking about adding a little waistcoat as well. Also, any recommendations for fabrics?

 

[The Chai]

Going to see my tailor next week to plan a dark blue/midnight tux for my wedding. I want something that will look snazzy on the big day but also versatile enough that I can hopefully use it for black tie events for many years to come. I’m really inspired by this post this Steven Hitchcock post. I love the turn up cuffs - what do you think? I’m thinking about adding a little waistcoat as well. Also, any recommendations for fabrics?

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Based off my personal taste rather than SF dogma but I am a big mohair fanboy so will always bias rowards mohair. I think midnight blue looks better in mohair anyways. William Halstead has kid mohair and bateman ogden has a mohair barathea which I quite like. Plus feels great during summer in comparison to a heavyweight pure wool barathea which I find is not as versatile.

For a lightweight pure wool I love the depth from a venetian twill, faille or crepe. Abraham Moon has a venetian wool that is marketed as a barathea for some reason and Bateman has a nice faille under the eleganza bunch.

Re cocktail cuffs, I think they pair better with a shawl rather than a peak IMO.

 

[The Chai]

P.s. Bateman ogden has the cheapest and for me one of the best mohair baratheas out there. The despos favourite i believe is a schofield smith pure wool with abit of cashmere midnight barathea which is also quite nice. I have a tailcoat made out of it but vastly prefer mohair. Though i believe most people here prefer wool.