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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

hpdv7

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Split opinion I see...thanks for all the feedback; I'll have to let this stew for a bit. I pulled the trigger on some Carmina calfskin wholecuts yesterday so I'll see how they are. Rash decision, but I was okay with it because I wanted to figure out overall sizing (I need some Carmina in my life whether it's these or a different pair down the line).
Does anyone have any pointers for choosing a shirt fabric? I saw elsewhere that a nice, lightweight broadcloth would be ideal and wanted to run that by the crowd too.
 

ericgereghty

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Split opinion I see...thanks for all the feedback; I'll have to let this stew for a bit. I pulled the trigger on some Carmina calfskin wholecuts yesterday so I'll see how they are. Rash decision, but I was okay with it because I wanted to figure out overall sizing (I need some Carmina in my life whether it's these or a different pair down the line).
Does anyone have any pointers for choosing a shirt fabric? I saw elsewhere that a nice, lightweight broadcloth would be ideal and wanted to run that by the crowd too.
Are you doing a bib front? Marcella collar/cuffs? If yes, I'd say go a smooth broadcloth/poplin...maybe linen, if you enjoy the fabric.

IF going a singular fabric, I'd consider going fly-front (or whatever they call the hidden placket) with a nice royal oxford weave. It'll give a decent approximation of marcella/pique
 

hpdv7

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Are you doing a bib front? Marcella collar/cuffs? If yes, I'd say go a smooth broadcloth/poplin...maybe linen, if you enjoy the fabric.

IF going a singular fabric, I'd consider going fly-front (or whatever they call the hidden placket) with a nice royal oxford weave. It'll give a decent approximation of marcella/pique

Yep, singular fabric, no bib, covered/hidden placket is the plan. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

Andy57

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I assume the answer is no but I thought to ask: any customs differences in England regarding black tie compared to the states? I have a black tie wedding to attend next month and want to make sure I am appropriately dressed.

I intend on packing my tuxedo, shirt, studs and links, tie and waist covering but planned on wearing high shine captoe oxfords. Hopefully our bags make it through LHR as I don’t think my tailor could whip up another in the short time I’m in town.
You'll be fine.
 

Andy57

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I'm getting the ball moving on prepping for my wedding day but would really like some guidance/advice on shoes! The rest of my outfit is planned to be as follows:
- Jacket/pants: Suitsupply MTM
- Shirt: Propercloth MTM
- Bowtie/cummberbund: Sam Hober

I was looking into patent leather oxfords, preferably wholecut. Meermin has patent standard oxfords for 200 (https://meermin.com/products/114450-black-patent-e) but I considered splurging on something like Carmina's patent wholecuts at 550 (https://www.carminashoemaker.com/wholecut-oxfords-black-patent-910-en).
I'd like nicer shoes from Carmina or a similarly tiered brand but it kills me that they'd be the highest quality shoes I own and yet barely see any wear - I don't wear black tie often at all.
Get and wear whatever shoes you like, but be aware that patent leather shoes are the right shoes to wear with black tie. "Highly polished calfskin" is still just that and the kind of shoes worn for business. @ericgereghty and my other esteemed friends on this forum may have their aversion to patent leather, but that does not make them right.

Essentially what you are doing is going to the trouble of obtaining a respectable black tie rig, then falling at the last hurdle by not getting the right shoes, for some reason. Makes no sense.
On the note of the shirt though...I'm not quite sure what fabric to go for? Going to keep it clean and simple with a covered placket, no bib. I like their Roma collar for regular dress shirts - would that be a good collar for a tuxedo shirt too or is it too tall (compared to the Presidents collar, for example)?
Get a good, crisp poplin if you are intent on a fly-front (covered placket) short. Don't get an oxford cloth or anything with a texture.
 

Andy57

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I figure I'd just give y'all something to chew on. The tie isn't black, but it's still black tie.
IMG_0670.jpeg
 

Lensmaster

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Well, here even the Bourgeoisie of the bankers in Frankfurt comes in a jeans and t-shirt to the theater, and maybe a sports coat to the opera. Very informal indeed!

I am just looking for a reason to get a smoking ;-)!

Best regards

Pascal
That can be a concern today. Here in the US it is the same situation. I just chose to wear a smoking to the local theater because it pleases me. I get a lot of positive reactions from it too. I do use these times to add some variety to my outfit so I don't look like I am with the orchestra. I wear something like a double breasted jacket or a burgundy cummerbund.
 

Lensmaster

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I figure I'd just give y'all something to chew on. The tie isn't black, but it's still black tie.
View attachment 2259151
How to veer from standard black tie is subjective. I would call this nice cocktail attire but not black tie. However, I wear well shined calf skin captoe shoes with my tuxedos.
 

kylepw

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I have a question regarding opera pump soles. I typically add steel toe taps or rubber topy soles to my leather shoes because I would otherwise wear down the toes too quickly.

For those with more experience wearing opera pumps, any thoughts on adding steel toe taps or rubber topy soles on pumps?
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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I have a question regarding opera pump soles. I typically add steel toe taps or rubber topy soles to my leather shoes because I would otherwise wear down the toes too quickly.

For those with more experience wearing opera pumps, any thoughts on adding steel toe taps or rubber topy soles on pumps?
Every black tie event I’ve attended in the last few years has involved dancing. I’m far from being Fred Astaire but I wouldn’t want rubber soles since they’d make it difficult to slide on the dance-floor. I’m not sure about toe caps but I tend not to wear my toes out quickly, especially since my opera pumps don’t get nearly as much wear as my regular shoes.
 

hpreston

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I have a question regarding opera pump soles. I typically add steel toe taps or rubber topy soles to my leather shoes because I would otherwise wear down the toes too quickly.

For those with more experience wearing opera pumps, any thoughts on adding steel toe taps or rubber topy soles on pumps?

My opinion, don’t add anything to opera pump toe/sole. More info, I add metal toe taps to almost all of my shoes because I walk a lot and tend to wear down that area quicker. It’s added a lot of life between resoling/recrafting for my shoes I wear to work.

Why would I say no to toe taps (metal or rubber) on opera pumps? You’re likely not wearing them often enough for it really make much of a difference. Agree with dirty pigeon on the dancing factor. Leave them as is. And enjoy the special occasions.
 

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