The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[brax]

Most European countries I believe call it smoking...my last tailor who was Italian also referred to it as smoking

In South America we also refer to it as a Smoking.

 

[Krish the Fish]

I assume the answer is no but I thought to ask: any customs differences in England regarding black tie compared to the states? I have a black tie wedding to attend next month and want to make sure I am appropriately dressed.

I intend on packing my tuxedo, shirt, studs and links, tie and waist covering but planned on wearing high shine captoe oxfords. Hopefully our bags make it through LHR as I don’t think my tailor could whip up another in the short time I’m in town.

 

[DorianGreen]

 

[Faux Brummell]

Antony Starr at The Emmys in a Noel Coward-esque brown enemble.

 

[hpdv7]

I'm getting the ball moving on prepping for my wedding day but would really like some guidance/advice on shoes! The rest of my outfit is planned to be as follows:
- Jacket/pants: Suitsupply MTM
- Shirt: Propercloth MTM
- Bowtie/cummberbund: Sam Hober

I was looking into patent leather oxfords, preferably wholecut. Meermin has patent standard oxfords for 200 (https://meermin.com/products/114450-black-patent-e) but I considered splurging on something like Carmina's patent wholecuts at 550 (https://www.carminashoemaker.com/wholecut-oxfords-black-patent-910-en).
I'd like nicer shoes from Carmina or a similarly tiered brand but it kills me that they'd be the highest quality shoes I own and yet barely see any wear - I don't wear black tie often at all.
I realized later that a lot of people here feel that calfskin oxfords with a good polish are just fine. Should I stick to my original plan of getting patent shoes (to be "proper" black tie) and figure out how much I want to spend or should I get black calfskin shoes (more versatility) that I can polish and wear appropriately with a black tie outfit but also wear with a suit?

On the note of the shirt though...I'm not quite sure what fabric to go for? Going to keep it clean and simple with a covered placket, no bib. I like their Roma collar for regular dress shirts - would that be a good collar for a tuxedo shirt too or is it too tall (compared to the Presidents collar, for example)?

 

[ericgereghty]

I'm getting the ball moving on prepping for my wedding day but would really like some guidance/advice on shoes! The rest of my outfit is planned to be as follows:
- Jacket/pants: Suitsupply MTM
- Shirt: Propercloth MTM
- Bowtie/cummberbund: Sam Hober

I was looking into patent leather oxfords, preferably wholecut. Meermin has patent standard oxfords for 200 (https://meermin.com/products/114450-black-patent-e) but I considered splurging on something like Carmina's patent wholecuts at 550 (https://www.carminashoemaker.com/wholecut-oxfords-black-patent-910-en).
I'd like nicer shoes from Carmina or a similarly tiered brand but it kills me that they'd be the highest quality shoes I own and yet barely see any wear - I don't wear black tie often at all.
I realized later that a lot of people here feel that calfskin oxfords with a good polish are just fine. Should I stick to my original plan of getting patent shoes (to be "proper" black tie) and figure out how much I want to spend or should I get black calfskin shoes (more versatility) that I can polish and wear appropriately with a black tie outfit but also wear with a suit?

On the note of the shirt though...I'm not quite sure what fabric to go for? Going to keep it clean and simple with a covered placket, no bib. I like their Roma collar for regular dress shirts - would that be a good collar for a tuxedo shirt too or is it too tall (compared to the Presidents collar, for example)?

My .02
1. I MUCH prefer calfskin. I also love Wholecuts. I’d get calf Wholecuts and shine them up. They’ll look (in my opinion, obviously) better than patent, and will be able to be worn outside of your wedding rig
2. Collar is dependent upon your build, of course, but I’d say go with the Roma. I think people are largely too skittish aboht having a big shirt collar for black tie. The Roma really isn’t all that imposing

 

[hpdv7]

My .02
1. I MUCH prefer calfskin. I also love Wholecuts. I’d get calf Wholecuts and shine them up. They’ll look (in my opinion, obviously) better than patent, and will be able to be worn outside of your wedding rig
2. Collar is dependent upon your build, of course, but I’d say go with the Roma. I think people are largely too skittish aboht having a big shirt collar for black tie. The Roma really isn’t all that imposing

Thanks, that helps a ton! I'm already leaning towards the calfskin shoe - should the entire shoe be polished or just the toe box area?
I'll go with the Roma. I prefer unfused collars but I assume a fused one would be more appropriate for black tie. As far as fabrics go, is a lightweight broadcloth/poplin ideal here?

 

[DorianGreen]

A DB dinner jacket by James Laurence Whitfield.

 

[classicalthunde]

Should I stick to my original plan of getting patent shoes (to be "proper" black tie) and figure out how much I want to spend or should I get black calfskin shoes (more versatility) that I can polish and wear appropriately with a black tie outfit but also wear with a suit?

I got calf skin black cap toes, they're my go-to suit shoe and get a decent amount of usage.

It might be a black tie sin, but personally, I dislike patent shoes I find them distracting

 

[DorianGreen]

A further vote for calfskin (cap toe) Oxford shoes. Patent has always had an artificial look to me.

 

[Cause Moe]

A further vote for calfskin (cap toe) Oxford shoes. Patent has always had an artificial look to me.

The glossiest bull shine, on the cap toes of calfskin oxfords, is the way to go.

 

[kylepw]

I’m a fan of low-vamp patent pumps like Bowhill offers. Black silk socks. More elegant than cap toe, IMO. Frank-Sinatra-approved.

 

[acconrad]

I'm always in the pro patent opera pump camp.

1. It's the uber traditional/by-the-book shoe for black tie
2. Stunt on them fools with the balls to wear a shoe solely designed for black tie

 

[brax]

Agree with the patent leather slipper group. It’s traditional and doesn’t look like you’re trying to fit an everyday shoe into a category where it doesn’t belong.

 

[Nick Charles]

I'm getting the ball moving on prepping for my wedding day but would really like some guidance/advice on shoes! The rest of my outfit is planned to be as follows:
- Jacket/pants: Suitsupply MTM
- Shirt: Propercloth MTM
- Bowtie/cummberbund: Sam Hober

I was looking into patent leather oxfords, preferably wholecut. Meermin has patent standard oxfords for 200 (https://meermin.com/products/114450-black-patent-e) but I considered splurging on something like Carmina's patent wholecuts at 550 (https://www.carminashoemaker.com/wholecut-oxfords-black-patent-910-en).
I'd like nicer shoes from Carmina or a similarly tiered brand but it kills me that they'd be the highest quality shoes I own and yet barely see any wear - I don't wear black tie often at all.
I realized later that a lot of people here feel that calfskin oxfords with a good polish are just fine. Should I stick to my original plan of getting patent shoes (to be "proper" black tie) and figure out how much I want to spend or should I get black calfskin shoes (more versatility) that I can polish and wear appropriately with a black tie outfit but also wear with a suit?

On the note of the shirt though...I'm not quite sure what fabric to go for? Going to keep it clean and simple with a covered placket, no bib. I like their Roma collar for regular dress shirts - would that be a good collar for a tuxedo shirt too or is it too tall (compared to the Presidents collar, for example)?

Hello. First of all, congratulations! As per the shoes, I'd recommend patent leather shoes for your wedding day. The reason for this is because you will have so much going on and your headspace might be a little fuzzy, as mine was, that worrying about your shoes being shiny is probably not the best use of your time. I will go even further and recommend slip-ons because you don't need to be worrying about whether your shoes are tied, either. Patent leather loafers are not (relatively) expensive and you can always go back and buy whole cut or regular oxfords for future nights out. Whatever you decide, hope you have a wonderful day.