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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Funposter

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Is the jacket you're planning to use single or double-breasted? If it's single breasted, the trousers might not be high rise enough to successfully use with a cummerbund or waistcoat.
The trousers have a 33cm/13in rise, so that was never going to be an issue, and was the reason I even thought about it in the first place. I have a long torso, so all of the ex-rental stuff on the market fits like a low-rise on me, even with say an 11" rise (about as high as most rental stuff goes). However upon further consideration (and consulting a couple of friends) I decided that they weren't a deep enough black to be appropriate.

I ended up picking up a pair of 1960s USAF gabardine dress trousers off Etsy, of all places, for probably not much more than the sort of sartorial surgery I was looking at was going to cost, anyway. The best part - they're located locally, so no spending $50 to ship them from the US to Australia.
 

The Chai

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The trousers have a 33cm/13in rise, so that was never going to be an issue, and was the reason I even thought about it in the first place. I have a long torso, so all of the ex-rental stuff on the market fits like a low-rise on me, even with say an 11" rise (about as high as most rental stuff goes). However upon further consideration (and consulting a couple of friends) I decided that they weren't a deep enough black to be appropriate.

I ended up picking up a pair of 1960s USAF gabardine dress trousers off Etsy, of all places, for probably not much more than the sort of sartorial surgery I was looking at was going to cost, anyway. The best part - they're located locally, so no spending $50 to ship them from the US to Australia.

where in Aus you based and what size is your waist?
 

Lensmaster

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Hello everyone,

you have the opportunity to wear a tuxedo for a black-tie event? It has never happened to me here in Germany to be invited to an event that required more than a good dark suit (navy blue, nightblue or charcoal) and nice leather shoes. Even at weddings more and more people come "casually" in trousers, a sports jacket and leather sneakers. In most cases I am completely overdressed with a good suit and polished high-quality goodyear-welted leather shoes.

So how do you come to have the opportunity to wear black or white tie? Are you in politics or the entertainment industry? I am a consultant

Best Regards

Pascal
I have never been invited to a specifically black tie event. I just find reasons to wear it. My small city has an orchestra and at least a couple times a year I go to their concerts in black tie. I dress that way to Christmas parties and concerts. On New Years Eve I wear Black tie. Though the last few years, since I completed my white tie rig, I wear that on NYE.
 

hpreston

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Hello everyone,

you have the opportunity to wear a tuxedo for a black-tie event? It has never happened to me here in Germany to be invited to an event that required more than a good dark suit (navy blue, nightblue or charcoal) and nice leather shoes. Even at weddings more and more people come "casually" in trousers, a sports jacket and leather sneakers. In most cases I am completely overdressed with a good suit and polished high-quality goodyear-welted leather shoes.

So how do you come to have the opportunity to wear black or white tie? Are you in politics or the entertainment industry? I am a consultant

Best Regards

Pascal

One black tie wedding, then a black tie optional wedding (with about half of the male guests in black tie),. And will wear it to concerts and likely new years dinner. Also, wore a white DJ (breaking all rules, sans tie, casually) out to nice dinner a few times
 

aoman

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My tuxedo is a Standeven wool/mohair blend and I've always felt that it doesn't fall very nicely on my body. It felt stiff and a bit crunchy and it shows a bit imperfections in fit, especially around the back of the jacket and pants; something that I don't see in my pure linen suits of the same cut. Linen certainly has a unique drape that hides any minor issues well.

I'm thinking about pure wool barathea this time, but I'm not sure of the weight. Obviously, I want it to drape well and have that linen like quality, so I guess the heavier the better? What's the sweet spot?
There's a few questions I have, do you live somewhere hot or cold? Outdoor weddings/fundraisers? Do you get warm easily? Looser cut or trimmer? Do you prioritize a very clean look over a more comfortable experience?

Weight is only part of the equation (my 400 gm fabrics from Kiton/Barbera feel lighter than 300 gm from Holland and Sherry), so think about where you wear formal and how you feel in those settings, that will help you decide the right cloth.
 

rob g

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5-18-24-14_tux.jpg
 

Pascal1980

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hello,

if I would black tie to e.g. a concert here in the Old Opera in Frankfurt, which would be nice, people would think I am crazy. Even a regular suit and tie are considerd posh. For Christmas in our family no one dresses up. Even for weddings people come casually.

To bad, that it is how it is.

I smoking/tuxedo in midnight blue would be nice. The shoes I already have (C&J black wholecut "James").

Best regards

Pascal
 

brax

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Public service announcement.
I did some early Autumn cleaning and placed four items for sale on SF. If interested they are:
Brooks Brothers patent leather opera pumps in 8.5D.
Baudoin & Lange velvet slippers in size 40.
Baudoin & Lange black suede slippers in size 41.
Albert Thurston white moire braces (suspenders) in M.
 

Pascal1980

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cedarlake23

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Following up on some questions I made on this thread a few months ago, my wedding was a few weeks ago and I finally got to wear my tuxedo! Very pleased with it and appreciate all the advice I received here. Here's the breakdown of my outfit:
  • Tuxedo: vintage black wool barathea with a satin shawl lapel from Etsy. The jacket needed some serious surgery, as it was way too big. William Field in DC did a great job getting it to fit me. I also had him remove the back vents and pocket flaps from the jacket to make it more classic. The trousers didn't need much work - just hemmed and I had him place side adjusters on it. I know suspenders are the norm, but I like the cleaner look of side adjusters.
  • Shirt: covered placket from Drake's.
  • Bowtie and cummerbund: satin silk from Drake's.
  • Pocket square: white silk from Eton.
  • Cufflinks: black silk knots from Sid Mashburn.
  • Shoes: opera pumps from Myrqvist. Completed the look with black silk socks from the Armoury.
I probably could have had the bowtie tighter, the cummerbund looser, had the shirt sleeves shortened, and figured out how to stop the pocket square from falling down, but those are all minor issues, IMO. I'm pleased with the clean, soft look of the shawl lapel, less structured covered placket shirt, side adjusters, and fabric cufflinks. And the opera pumps added a touch of playfulness, which I like. I hope to wear this again in the not too-distant future!

AriaChuck-Preview-7.jpg
 

psb

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So as a birthday highlight all guests were given the same budget to play around with that James Bond got from her majesty in Casino Royal, the equivalent to 10.000.000 USD? ;-)

A casino was rented for the birthday party?

Enjoy your sunday and best regards

Pascal
All guests have been given an "unlimited" budget, but it was no real money :D...
Yes, the casino was rented for the party.


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GM_BAR_MIX_3600.jpg
 

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